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Ram Air Kit
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Why lift your Jeep? More height means more clearance for dealing with obstacles while offroading. It allows you to run larger tires, which also helps with conquering offroad challenges. Still another reason is that many folks just feel that a lifted Jeep with larger tires looks better, and I certainly agree with them. The added height and larger tires just give a Jeep a better more pronounced profile.
No matter the reason for lifting your Jeep, there are a number of ways to go about it. Before you pick which one is right for you, you'll need to make some decisions along the way. First, you'll need to decide on what you're looking to accomplish with the lift. Is it simply for show, or is it for go? Serious rock crawling anyone? Second, determine just how high you want to go. Looking for a little height for some mild wheeling or are you really serious about this height thing? Third, select the type of lift to use. Finally, install the lift or have it installed.
The basic methods for lifting a Jeep are Suspension Lift Kits, Body Lifts Kits, Shackle Lifts, Spring-Over-Axle Conversions, and Coil Spring Spacers. Jeep shackle lifts and coil spring spacers typically result in a maximum increase of 2 inches. Coil spring spacers are just what they say: spacers that are inserted under the base of the coil spring, resulting in lifting the springs higher. Shackle lifts are comprised of leaf spring shackles that are longer and lift the frame higher from the leafs. Both of these kits are rather inexpensive methods, but if you're looking for more than a couple of inches, you'll need to look elsewhere.
Spring-Over-Axle conversion kits allow you to change the location of the leaf spring from beneath the axle to sit on top of it. They'll usually result in a lift of 4 inches or more. This can be increased by the size of springs you use with the over axle kit. Use of these can cause cantering, and steering linkage and driveline issues which must be addressed. It can become a little complicated for the less mechanically inclined among us (I'm one of them!). It will definitely change the handling of the rig. While the spring-over-axle conversion kits are rather inexpensive when compared to suspensions lifts, there is a good bit of time and money spent on fixing the issues it creates, which needs to be taken into consideration when assessing the costs of your various options.
With Body Lift Kits you basically unbolt the body from the frame, and place manufactured blocks between the Jeep's body and the rolling chassis. This raises the body of your Jeep but doesn't directly increase the clearance of your undercarriage. The body lift does allow you to run larger tires, which will increase your Jeep's clearance.
Suspension lift kits will directly increase the clearance of a Jeep. They call for installing taller suspension components (higher lift springs and longer recoil shocks). These systems deliver lift, better articulation, and better offroad handling. Unfortunately, they are the most expensive of the lift options, but they deliver the best handling performance.
When it comes down to choosing a lift, you'll need to determine why you're lifting the vehicle, and how much you're willing to pay for it. If you're only looking to add a couple of inches and you want the lift just for looks, a body kit, coil-spring-spacers or lift shackles may be just what the doctor ordered. If you're looking to build a Jeep that is more offroad capable then you should look at suspension lift systems.
Many serious offroaders combine the suspension lift with a body lift for additional height. Installation of any of these lifting methods will usually change the handling of a vehicle. They all raise the center of gravity and will, therefore, affect side-to-side handling and cornering. This can be addressed by adding wider tires along with the lift. Depending on the type and size of kit you install and the model of your Jeep, you may need to install a dropped Pitman arm, longer control arms, longer brake hoses, a transfer case drop, and/or a CV drive shaft and slip yoke eliminator kit (due to a change of the angle of the drive train on TJs and some Cherokees). It's important to not cut corners when lifting your Jeep. Why spend the money on a lift just to compromise the handling performance and face potentially serious wear and tear issues with key components? Do it right the first time and it will serve you in the long run.
Whatever system you select, the one thing for sure is that the added height will help give your Jeep that rugged tough look most of us seem to prefer.
In his spare time, Al likes to learn more about one of the true American Automotive Legends, The Jeep. When he is working, Al is a marketing manager for one of the leading on-line retailers of Jeep aftermarket parts and accessories, Xtreme Terrain Concepts. They can be found at http://www.xtremeterrain.com.
How to build a spud gun with sureshot kit (SIK-20)
SIK-20 Standard Igniter Instructions
These instructions are intended to help you build an effective yet simple spud gun (potato gun).
1. These instructions/procedures are provided as-is.
No guarantee is made that this device will function as well or better as I have experienced, intend, or describe it to operate. In other words, your results may vary, and they may even be very undesirable results, possibly resulting in personal injury or property damage. Please review the site disclaimer for more information.
2. The wording and statements/nomenclature pertaining to the construction and operation of this potato launcher are intended as such to help ensure one attempting to do this has a basic understanding of the equipment and materials involved. If some of the statements seem 'Greek' to you or you do not recognize some symbols or phrases, that is wholly my intent, and you should obtain assistance from a trusted source or not proceed at all.
3. These instructions are intended for a beginner or someone that has never built a spudgun before. The procedure outlined below is not necessarily the method myself or another experienced spudgun builder uses. These instructions will help guide you in building a "sound" piece of launching hardware. As you gain experience, you may find that different things may work better for you.... but start simple. Thanks, and happy spudding!
Keep in mind that PVC pipe/fittings are not approved by the manufacturer to be used for the purpose of constructing spudguns.
Step 1: Getting stuff to build spud gun (potato gun)
This materials list is to build a very simple starter model potato launcher, with the intent to get the most bang from your buck (so to speak). By no means is this the only way to build a launcher, or nearly the coolest, but still able to provide hours of fun. Also, make sure to obtain pressure rated parts for building your spud gun. We do not recommend ABS or cellular core type pipe and fittings, these are not pressure rated and unsafe.
MATERIALS:
Obtain the following items:
1. 12" of 4" SCH40 PVC Pressure Rated water pipe (chamber body)
2. 48" of 2" SCH40 PVC Pressure Rated water pipe (barrel stock)
3. 4" PVC coupler
4. 4" x 2" PVC bushing (if not available combine two, like 4x3 and 3x2)
5. 4" PVC FPT adapter (clean-out adapter)
6. 4" PVC MPT threaded plug
7. PVC primer, one with dye in it if possible (purple, blue)
8. PVC pipe cement, medium body is best
The rest is provided with our SIK-201 kit.
EQUIPMENT/TOOLS:
Suggested tools for building the potato launcher:
1. Hand wood saw (or hacksaw, for cutting pipe, maybe you already got it cut at the store)
2. Wire stripper
3. Terminal ring crimper (pliers can work)
4. 3/16” Allen wrench
5. 7/16 wrench
6. Drill and ½” drill bit
7. Medium half round file for shaping pipe (or a lathe if you got one)
8. Rag for PVC cement clean up (disposable)
Step 2: Preparing the materials for assembly
To make sure everything goes together properly and smoothly, proper conditioning and sizing of the materials is necessary. Pay particular attention to the shaping of the pipe ends, as this is a major factor in proper solvent welding with the fittings.
PVC PIPE SIZING
Cut the two pipes to size, 4” dia cut 12 “length and 2” dia. Cut 48” length with the saw unless you already did so in the store. Using the file, take off the sharp corners on the inside AND outside of the pipe. Radiusing the inside helps reduce the amount of potato scud that can build up in the launcher, and breaking the outside corner ensures proper solvent welding, if this is not done leak paths may result. Cut ends should be as square as possible. To one end of the 1 1/2" pipe it is suggested that the inside be chamfered about 0.020" and the outside filed or turned down to almost meet the inner chamfer, creating a blunt knife to help size the potato.
PVC FITTINGS
Inspect the fitting for really bad weld lines or possible large dislocations that may result in premature failure. Remove all paper tags or labels by peeling, scraping, even using a bit of primer to clean off the last adhesive. File off any sharp spurs that may hamper your ability to grip the fittings firmly when assembling.
Step 3: Assembling the spud gun launcher
I Chamber Assembly:
Prime both ends of the 4" pipe, also priming the 4" bushing, both 4" coupler sockets, and 4" slip fit female adapter. DO NOT get any primer on the adapter threads! Immediately apply pipe cement to the three primed 4" fittings, then LIBERALLY to both ends of the 4" pipe. Start both the coupler and adapter fittings on the pipe, start the bushing in the coupler, then right the assembly with the threads up, pressing it together with body weight while twisting about 1/2 turn. Hold this position for at least 30 seconds. The pipe ends should bottom each about 1 1/2" inside the fitting socket. If they both do not bottom, either apply more force IMMEDIATELY somehow to get it to, or you are screwed and have to throw it out--start over with that. If the fittings and pipe are properly conditioned this should not be a problem. Wipe up any spilled glue with the rag, but leave a good bead at the external pipe/fittings line. If any glue got on the threads get it out of there as fast as possible! Any glue on your hands should just be left to dry and then peel it off. Using solvent to remove it will just increase your exposure to it.
II Barrel Assembly:
Prime one end of the barrel and the 2" socket on the bushing. If one end of the barrel was chamfered to a knife, prime the square 'regular' end of the pipe. Apply glue, liberally to the pipe, and press together, again using a 1/4 turn motion to bottom. Hold for 30+ seconds. After releasing place the unit upright for several minutes, to let the glue set a little more. Solvent welding is more of a curing than a drying process. Solvent is lost, hence the term drying, but the action of the solvent effectively cures all those individual plastic parts into one continuous physically joined piece of plastic. Properly done, solvent welds are always stronger than bulk pipe.
AT THIS POINT AND FOR SAFETY PLEASE WAIT AT LEAST 24 HOURS FOR THE GLUE TO FULLY CURE AND SOLVENT TO DISSIPATE.
If you are planning to paint your spud gun cannon, now is a good time
III installing the electrodes
The SIK-20 kit includes 2 electrode assemblies sized to be used where the coupling fits over the pipe. The over lap of pipe and coupling is 2” and we recommend centering the electrodes within the overlap area, 180 degrees opposing. Once you have the electrode centers marked you will need to drill ½” holes centered on the marks and exactly opposing each other. At this point the tips should be touching. (Once the terminals are attached and jam nuts tightened the well nuts will expand and electrode gap will increase… See section V)
IV Handle Assembly
Push the handle ends on the aluminum tube until its seats to the bottom. Connect the modular interface from the MRS-201 ring set and the handle assembly using the 4 ¼-20 x 5/8” socket cap bolts. Check the alignment on a flat surface. Place the ring arches on the barrel near where the barrel and chamber meet. Attach with smooth top rings and (4) ¼-20 x 7/8” Socket cap screws and square nuts
TAKE TURNS TIGHTENING BOTH SIDES SO THE OPPOSING CLAMPS HAVE EQUAL SPACNG BETWEEN THEM. PLEASE DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. OVER-TIGHTENING CAN FRACTURE THE PVC. TIGHTENING WITH THE SMALL SIDE OF THE ALLEN WRENCH WILL PROVIDE ADUEQATE TORQUE.
V Igniter / lead / electrode connection
Insert the electrode assembly through previously drilled ½” holes. Insert red button igniter through handle hole guiding the wires through and out the side facing the chamber. Size wires, remove insulation, slide on heat shrink, crimp on terminals slide heat shrink to insulate terminal and wire connection. Heat shrink tubing using a lighter or hair dryer. Connect igniter terminals to threaded electrode assembly in this order: washer – terminal – nut and tighten. The electrode assembly well nuts will expand in the hole and provide an airtight seal, tighten until ¼” threads are above the nut.
CAUTION – BEFORE CHECKING ELECTRODE GAP MAKE SURE CHAMBER IS EMPTY OF GLUE/PRIMER VAPORS.
With chamber open and from a distance, look to check for spark jumping electrode gap. Your gap should be around 1/8” to 3/16” and produce a bright spark. If the electrodes are too close pull them out and file/grind of tips slightly to widen the gap. Once you have consistent spark its time to add the electrode covers (plastic cover with metal insert). Align over the threaded electrode end and gently tap on.
Step 4: Using the launcher
1. Now that you spark is verified, test fit the threaded plug into the adapter. It should engage the threads at LEAST TWO TURNS. If not, check for crud in the threads, and if clear, obtain a 60deg triangle diamond file, and size down the plug threads a little. The threads are at a 60deg angle, so careful filing. Usually filing the first few threads is ok.
2. With the cap off, load a potato! With the chamber on the ground, place a potato over the muzzle of the spud gun launcher, and press it down with your palm, shaving off the excess, creating a cylindrical potato plug. Make sure the potato contacts the wall firmly all around, or it will not fire or not that well. Loading the potato sideways is acceptable, as it creates a more stable projectile anyway. Ram the potato down to within 2" of the breech of the barrel, using a smaller diameter PVC pipe or broomstick. Don't push it too far or it will fall out into the chamber...and just be subject to a short baking cycle.
3. With the spud firmly seated in the breech, pick up the launcher and holding with one hand, dispense 1-2 seconds of Static Guard™ (hairspray works too) directly into the chamber. Don't use too much; it will just make a mess. Quickly close by screwing on the end cap hand tight, do not use a tool to tighten to two turns or you will likely never get it off again.
4. Call out "Fire in the hole!", point the launcher in a safe direction, and depress the igniter button. That potato you rammed down there should exit at a quite rapid rate with a sizable report, and depending on where you aimed and at what angle you pointed, it went anywhere from 6 inches to ~200 yards from the muzzle. Pretty cool. If you clicked the igniter a few times and it didn't work, you are not alone, check out my next section.
5. If spud gun worked, great! Remove the end cap (this may require a tool), vent the spent gasses getting a fresh load of air, and repeat as necessary!
Trouble shooting your spud gun cannon
There are a lot of reasons why your spud gun launcher may not be working. First and foremost NEVER take off the cap and start clicking away at the igniter. This again has led to human fires and that chemical thermal hair removal thing again....
Hairspray in cold weather just does not go well. Too much of the burnable stuff in the spray condenses on the chamber walls, making it very difficult to burn. You might consider a lighter, hotter fuel (propane....)
To 'defuse' a misfire you need to take off the cap, while pointing it in a safe direction. Allow the chamber to air out for several minutes, perhaps longer, to get the fuel load out. After you are certain the fuel has been vented, again verify the spark, just by turning the chamber enough so you can see where the spark should be. Never point the chamber bore directly at your face, or body, or anybody else. If it sparks then it is a fuel mixture problem.
One of the most common fuel problems leading to misfire is too much fuel! Not usually a problem with hairspray, other richer fuels can be overloaded above their UEL value, and they won’t work. Always try less fuel rather than more fuel.
If you still can't get it to work I invite you to peruse the many other web sites that talk about how to troubleshoot your combustion launcher. Spudfiles.com is an excellent resource.
About the Author
Sureshot Inc. / www.ultimatespudgun.com
Short ram air intake?
I just installed a short ram air intake on my Honda Civic yr 2000 today, but it sounds the same compare to my stock air intake when I hit on the gas pedal. Should that be normal? I bought the kit from ebay, and wonder if I use different air filter will make a difference?
dont listen to that other guy, some intakes and exhaust systems do actually increase hp and make ur car sound badass!, turbo or supercharger would really increase ur hp also, u could use an AEM air intake instead of ebay which is crap.
David Essex: More, so much more, than a pretty face
The once flowing brown locks are now a grey, thinning crop; the svelte physique that drove women crazy has rounded out; the smooth skin is tanned and leathery. But the eyes have it. When they fix on you there can be no doubt that the gentleman in faded jeans and hoodie is the former sex god David Essex.
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