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Raised Hood Kit
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2004 FORD MUSTANG 40th ANNIVERSARY RAISED HOOD SCOOP RACING STRIPES DECAL KIT* US $84.96
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1 M809 5 TON DIESEL RAISED HOOD KIT 123567988 NOS US $125.00
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Every year, thousands of ordinary citizens are hurt--some seriously--because they failed to follow established safety procedures when repairing cars or light trucks. Their injuries all come under the "preventable" heading. Safety precautions include the following:
1. Always place a sturdy jack stand under the frame of a car that you have raised using a bumper jack or a scissors jack. The jacks cannot be trusted, and the vehicle may fall unexpectedly, and with no warning.
2. Once you have a jack stand in place, block the opposite (and diagonal) wheel to prevent the car from rolling. That is, if you are changing the right-front tire, place blocks (sometimes called chocks) on both sides of the left-rear tire. The blocks that I prefer are pieces of 4x4 posts, about one foot long each.
3. Use only quality tools, even on the simplest of repairs. Cheap tools will fail, crack or slip on the nut or bolt you are attempting to turn. Auto-repair shops and larger hardware stores carry tools that have a lifetime guarantee. Cheap tools lack such a guarantee. Additionally, if you are using sockets that attach to ratcheting wrenches, use 6-point sockets rather than 12-point sockets for a better grip on the nuts and bolts.
4. Don't wear jewelry of any kind when working on a motor vehicle. Set aside rings, watches, necklaces, etc., before attempting any repairs. Gold rings are especially dangerous because they conduct electricity. If your ring finger ever gets between the positive post on the battery and any other metal part on the vehicle, 400 amperes of current will flow through the ring, causing serious damage to your fingers and hand. Metal watch bands can also cause harmful short circuits.
5. Choose your work clothes carefully. Never lean over a running engine if you are wearing a necktie, for it takes just an instant for a moving belt or pulley to catch on the tie and yank you into the engine area. Also, do not wear shirts with shirttails hanging out for the same reason. Always button your cuffs if you are wearing a long-sleeve shirt.
6. If doing electrical work of any kind, always disconnect the negative battery cable from its post to prevent accidental short circuits. Additionally, if you must remove the battery for any reason, always disconnect the negative cable before you disconnect the positive cable. Reason: If you use a metal wrench on a positive cable connection (negative cable still attached), and the wrench inadvertently comes in contact with any other metal part in the engine area, you will have an immediate short circuit. You do not run that risk if you disconnect the negative cable first.
7. Wear clear protective glasses if you are using power or impact tools on a motor vehicle. That is the only way to protect your eyes from chips of metal or other foreign objects that a power drill or an impact wrench may cause.
8. Finally, think what you are doing at all times. Know what the next step must be. Remember, a motor vehicle is nothing but a big, dumb machine that is never to be trusted. If something can go wrong, it probably will go wrong. Stay safe.
The author is an ASE-certified automotive repair technician.
Author's URL: http://garyjacobsen.yolasite.com
H.i.d. Lights: Installation Guide
There really isn’t any doubt that H.I.D. lights are gaining a lot of appeal in the automotive industry. Ask most luxury car owners and it’s one of the things they have included in their “To Buy” list. In fact, these kits have slowly become a household name in the industry -- thanks to the right combination of style and safety that it is becoming known for.
However, one question that most drivers ask is how easy HID lights can be installed. Actually, it’s as easy as changing the bulb of a semi-complex and sophisticated flashlight. What you need is a semblance of common sense, two working hands, an instruction guide that comes with the HID kit that you’ve purchased and a bit of trial and error from time to time.
Before you begin installing your HID lights, make sure that the crews are installed in their respective holes. This will prevent possible mishaps during the assembly process, since the screws might unpredictably go in at an angle, which consequently makes it much harder to turn and install the screws later on. Immediately installing them in their housing can prevent these problems from ruining your day.
Now that you have done the screws, the first step to installing your HID lights is to remove the battery's negative cable. Remove the headlamp’s top cover, and manually position the door in the mid-position to remove it. Look for the manual override knob on the inside corner of each headlamp, and raise it to remove the bezels and top cover easily. Next, remove the headlamp assembly using a 10mm socket and ratchet, and once you’ve removed the assembly, use a sharp razor knife to score the aluminum headlight. Once the headlight assembly is out of the way, slash the aluminum headlight bucket with a fine razor knife. The scored ribs must be removed to install the new HID headlight assembly.
Next, get your aluminum rib and break it off. After doing the first headlight bucket, tighten your vise grips when grabbing the aluminum to make sure that the edges are cleanly cut. Run the razor knife again if the aluminum does not break in your first try. After this, use a piece of two-sided tape to attach the ballast to the inner fender and strengthen the ballast by adding screws. Don’t cover the serial number on the backside in case you need to replace your ballast. And also, make sure the headlamp assembly fits without frictions happening on any of the cut aluminum ribs.
After you’ve done this, put the screws by reaching around the sides of the headlamp bucket. Make sure to place some soft rags or blankets around the hood and fender to prevent falling pieces from rubbing and scratching the headlamp housing on the paint.
Now you can install the screws to firmly hold the ballast on the inner fender. Don’t exert too much force when putting the screws in place because the inner fender is light and prone to breakage. Once all the screws are placed, secure them carefully. Be extra careful in this process, too. The screws can cut into the plastic and break off the plastic mounting ears.
Now loosen the coolant reservoir and remove the battery protector to route the wiring under the battery tray. The battery protector pops out easily. Just press the plastic pushpin along the windshield edge to pull it out. Then, tie the cross wire harness in place by using tie-wraps. Make sure that you are careful around the hood hinges, as the wiring can be nipped if you leave it unlatched.
Once all the wires are in place, connect them to the ballast. However, make sure that you install the colored wires correctly -- the battery and ground supply wires to the ballast should be installed with the red wire on the inside next to the inner fender and the black wire out.
Next, crimp the wire connectors together. Then, connect and tighten the battery wires to the stud on the fuse panel. Pay attention to the placement of the terminals so the plastic cover can be reinstalled.
After this, carefully connect the screws and tighten them afterwards. Once they are tightened, manually turn the headlights down into position to put it in its correct placement. One way to check if it is properly placed is through wiggles. The rule of thumb is that when it is wiggling, then you need to adjust it again.
Now, run the wiring under the reservoir by removing the coolant reservoir. It’s not necessary to remove the coolant hoses when the screws are already removed. As you can see, the negative battery cable is still separated, so do the final wiring connections at the frame ground stud. The black wires are joined here, and then the battery protector that you previously took out sits down on top of the stud.
By the way, when you are doing the wiring, refer back to the instructions provided by the company. You may find some headlamp wire connectors have missing wires. Don’t panic. This is quite normal in most products. And also, you can prevent shorting by remembering to connect the single wires and thrusting the provided boot. Use a tie-wrap to grasp it out of the way of the headlamp during opening and closing.
There you have it. It doesn’t take a rocket science to install HID lights. Just follow these steps, and you’ll soon enjoy the benefits of having these lights installed in your vehicle.
About the Author
A Computer Engineering student and loves to travel. Reading current news in the internet is one of his past times. Taking pictures of the things around him fully satisfies him. He loves to play badminton and his favorite pets are cats.
For more information and queries, you may visit HID Lights
40th anniversary ford thunderbird picture included?
where can i find a steel cowl hood, a body kit, lowering kit, and any other parts that would make my car look even better maybe a supercharger kit or something to raise to performance it has a 4.6l v8 with a cold air kit and a tranny cooler and a shift kit
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=194496802&albumID=0&imageID=22083942#a=0&i=22083944
roush doesnt have any thing for a 95 thunderbird
Supercoupe Performance Parts offers parts for lowering the car plus bodykits.
Companies offering spring kits for the 89-97 Thunderbirds are Eibach, H&R, Tokico, Suspension Techniques, and Jamex (pronounced 'yamex').
I'm going to include some links to help you out.
Special Report -Rapid growth of U.S. militias feeds off politics
By James B. Kelleher and Ed Stoddard
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US $84.96