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Racing Clutch Slave
Checkout Ebay Auctions For The Cheapest Prices
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 F1 RACING OE CLUTCH KIT+SLAVE CYLINDER 95-99 CHEVY CAVALIER PONTIAC SUNFIRE 2.2L  US $167.00
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 F1 RACING STAGE 3 CLUTCH KIT+SLAVE 93-94 BERETTA T550 2.3L SUNBIRD CAVALIER 3.1L US $213.00
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15110 Cylinder/Piston Set Nitro Star T-15 Sale Price: $43.44  |
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CYLINDER / PISTON SET T-15 |
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05 06 07 Chevy Cobalt SS 2.0L Stage 3 Clutch Kit Sale Price: $443.09 |
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This is a phoenix Friction Products brand Stage 3 Clutch Kit. The kit features a Phoenix Friction high-heat cerametallic spring dampened disc and an OE replacement pressure plate. It will provide up to a 60% increase in the stock horsepower and engine torque capacity (ETC). At the same time, you will not notice any increase in pedal effort over the stock clutch and offers chatter-resistant lift-off. Our cerametallic button discs will give you the fastest shifts due to their low radial mass which reduces their overall flywheel effect and works with all flywheels, including lightweight steel and aluminum. You can expect 200% the life over original equipment woven organic linings from cerametallic buttons. These buttons will absorb the most energy of all the friction materials and is the material of choice for the highest torque applications. A Phoenix Stage 3 Racing product is a direct factory fit and requires no modifications for installation. In addition, no modifications to the original clutch release system are necessary. This is the perfect clutch combination for moderately tuned engines. Phoenix Products is a 25 year OE and performance supplier and manufacture of clutch and friction products. We only offer the highest quality OE and Performance components from the best OE and Performance manufacturers, including ourselves. If you have any questions either before or after the sale, we will be happy to answer your email or take your call. For more information about us, please feel free to read the about us page. |
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Wilwood 260-1333 Clutch Slave Cylinder Sale Price: $73.97 |
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Wilwood 260-1333 CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER. |
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Powerstands PSR Clutch Slave Cylinder - Black 02-00310-22 List Price: $149.95 Sale Price: $130.18 |
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Performance, beauty and 30%+ improvement over stock cylinderFits all Ducati with hydraulic clutchIncludes conversion spacer with O ring for pre-2000 modelsAnodized in black, gold or redThis Item Fits the Following Applications:2009 Ducati Monster 6962009 Ducati Monster 1100 S2009 Ducati Monster 11002009 Ducati Hypermotard 1100 S2009 Ducati Hypermotard 11002009 Ducati 1098 R2008 Ducati Monster S4Rs Tricolore2008 Ducati Monster S4Rs Testastretta2008 Ducati Monster S4R Testastretta2008 Ducati Monster S2R 10002008 Ducati Monster 6962008 Ducati Monster 6952008 Ducati Hypermotard 1100 S2008 Ducati Hypermotard 11002008 Ducati 1098 S2008 Ducati 1098 R2008 Ducati 10982007 Ducati Monster S4Rs Testastretta2007 Ducati Monster S4R Testastretta2007 Ducati Monster S4R2007 Ducati Monster S2R 8002007 Ducati Monster S2R 10002007 Ducati Monster 6952007 Ducati 1098 S2007 Ducati 10982006 Ducati Multistrada 1000s DS2006 Ducati Multistrada 1000 DS2006 Ducati Monster S4Rs Testastretta2006 Ducati Monster S4Rs2006 Ducati Monster S4R2006 Ducati Monster S2R Dark2006 Ducati Monster S2R 10002006 Ducati Monster S2R2006 Ducati Monster 620 Dark2006 Ducati Monster 6202006 Ducati 999S2006 Ducati 999R Xerox2006 Ducati 999R2006 Ducati 9992006 Ducati 749S2006 Ducati 749R2006 Ducati 749 Dark2006 Ducati 7492005 Ducati Multistrada 1000 DS2005 Ducati Monster S2R Dark2005 Ducati Monster S2R2005 Ducati Monster 620 Dark2005 Ducati Monster 6202005 Ducati Monster 1000s2005 Ducati Monster 10002005 Ducati 999S2005 Ducati 999R2005 Ducati 9992005 Ducati 749S2005 Ducati 749R2005 Ducati 749 Dark2005 Ducati 7492004 Ducati Monster 8002004 Ducati Monster 620 Matrix2004 Ducati Monster 620 Capirex20 |
Here are some more information for Racing Clutch Slave:
There are various types of motorcycle helmets available in the markets and the main purpose of a helmet is to protect the rider from head injury. The well-known and leading motorcycle brands that are available in the market are Bolle, Nolan, Honda, Yamaha, Fox, Vega, Giro, Suzuki, Acerbic, Cobra, Jones and the Icon.
Motorcycle helmets were introduced to cater for safety of the rider on roads. Wearing of helmet is compulsory in most of the countries. With helmet the rider feels secured and protects him from fatal accidents.
The main parameters of helmet are proper ventilation for cooling, technical make, light in weight and design and the shape along with the style. The types of motorcycle helmets include flip up motorcycle helmet, open face helmet, half helmets and the full-face helmets. Nowadays, helmets are available for all types of riding events such as snowmobile events, dirt bike motorcycle events and for automotive motorcycle events.
While choosing a motorcycle helmet, one needs to consider many factors that enable you to select good helmet. Some of the important factors are as follows.
o The color of the helmet should match with your motorcycle; otherwise the different combination will look odd.
o The motorcycle helmet should be of good quality and made of strong sturdy material to protect your head in case of accident.
o It should properly fit and should not either over size or under size.
o The motorcycle should satisfy and be approved from the authorized government agencies.
o The motorcycle helmet should allow you see the peripheral vision so that chances of accidents are less.
o Choose such type of helmet that is bright in color so that it is visible to others in night.
o While selecting motorcycle helmets safety matters are to be concerned first and then style and color.
Doo Rags
Doo rags are as important as the motorcycle helmets. A Doo rag is a piece of fine cloth that is used for covering the head while riding motorcycles. This tying of Doo rags started in 1930 by people of Africa and America. The main purpose of Doo rags during that period was to protect chemically processed hairs. During those days, they were made from cotton or women stocking were used as a Doo rag. But now days they are made from fine quality polyester.
It is believed that civil war slaves in American culture introduced the Doo rags and it is closely related to the culture of Afro-American. The main artist that helped Doo rags to get popular is the LL Cool and Mr. Nelly as they portrayed the Doo rags in their paintings.
The Doo rags are worn under the helmets and they absorb excess sweat in summer and keep the rider's head cool. Doo rags also enable the motorcycle helmets to fit properly and do not allow moving of the helmet to from its place in case of motor racing. These Doo rags also protect your hairs from hot Sun and allow the rider to have safe ride as hairs does not obstruct the vision of the rider while driving at speed. Doo rags are available in various colors and shapes. The common color preferred in selecting Doo rag is black.
Motor Cycle Helmets and Doo Rags
The Ultimate Classic Corvette Buyers Check List
When you want to buy a classic car, there are a lot of thing to look at and inspect, in this article I will deal with one specific car, the Chevrolet Corvette, you look at a lot of the same things as every other car, but the Corvette does have it's own special areas of interest.
Check The Numbers: First just a quick visual inspection, do they look UN-tampered with, do they look like they were stamped at the factory.
These are the numbers to look at, if your looking at it as an investment, this is one of the most important things you need to look at..
Body ID Engine Number: Casting Number, RPO Codes, Date Codes, and other various stampings. Trim Tag: Vin Code, Paint Code, Transmission Code. Owners Title: Make sure it all matches with the title.
Body Work:
Make sure that the body in general looks square, if it doesn't this indicates a wreck, or worn body mounts, or possibly frame damage in the area that isn't square.
Check the nose alignment, this is another indicator that the car has been in a front end collision.
Wheel Well Height:
Check the height of the wheels at all four corners of the car, if they look different, this indicates a suspension problem, it may be simple like a shock, or extensive like a broken spring, so take your time and pay attention.
Body Surface:
What your checking for here is anything that looks like it doesn't belong, like bumps, ripples, waves, visible seems, and last but not least, paint shrinkage, most of these mean a repaint.
Paint Work:
Check against the paint code to see it the car has the factory paint color on it, look for over spray on any areas of the body, certain years did have a bit of engine over spray from the factory, just a bit on the headers of the car.
Paint surface problems, this includes lifting, checking if the car has a lacquer type paint on it, look for over masking, this will indicate that the car has been repainted at some point in time, you should also look for dust in the paint.
Look for scratches showing through the paint, you'll never see this with a factory paint job, look for bubbles, flaking, peeling, all of these things indicate that the car has been repainted at some point in time, and not a good job done with the paint
Color Match: Look for areas that look like the color is a bit off, or doesn't match the rest of the car, this always means body work in the are where the paint doesn't match, and usually means that the car has had an accident.
Check Panel Gaps, And Bumper Height:
Check the front bumper to make sure that it sets level, and the height that it should, check the gaps around the hood, doors, T-top, deck lid, and last but not least the rear bumper.
Steel Work:
A common misconception about the Corvette is the one where it has nothing that can rust, because the car is made from fiber glass, this is 100% not true, there is a lot of steel in a Corvette.
Check the frame of the car for undercoat peeling, or falling off of the car, look at the frame for surface rust, flaking rust. Patch repairs, and holes, check around the windshield posts, this is one of the areas where they wrap fiber glass around the metal.
Under Hood And Engine:
First of all you'll want to check the painted surface of the engine for condition of the paint, and also take a look at the chrome surfaces of the engine, look for peeling, and rust showing through the chrome.
Check For Originality:
If your a car collector who buys these cars for investment reasons, this could be the most important parts of the process, basically your looking for things that may look out of place, or don't look as if the factory installed them.
This usually is not to hard to determine, you'll bee looking at the exhaust system, the fuel system including but not limited to the carburetor, the fuel pump, the intake manifold, the air cleaner, next is the wiring, you'll be looking that the general condition of the harness, and the wiring ends.
Maintenance:
You should look at heater hose connections, and hose condition, also look at all of the drive belts on the car, after that you'll move on to a maintenance check, this will include coolant level, engine oil level, hydraulic fluid level, brake fluid level, transmission fluid level, and last but not least power steering fluid level.
Check Engine Condition:
This is a very important step, especially if you need to save money while restoring the car, have the owner start the car for you, check the engine at the tail pipe for smoke when the engine is revved, also look at the inside of the oil filler cap for sludge, an indicator of poor engine maintenance.
Also if you see smoke when the engine is revved, and it seems to go away when the engine warms up, it needs valve seals replaced, and more then likely a valve job, examine coolant for oil in the water, this will look like a white substance floating on the water, and check radiator for leaks.
Check Engine For Leaks:
Leaks from the engine are important because they can mean that the engine needs to be removed from the car to fix them, at which point it's always better to just rebuild the engine to make sure that everything is up to par.
When checking for leaks you need to concentrate on a few areas of the engine to be through with your inspection of the engine, to start with always check the bottom radiator hose for leaks, and then check around the distributor, valve covers, the rear of the intake manifold, and the bell housing.
You should also look under the car to see where it has been dripping oil on the ground, and while your there look the the back of the engine where the transmission connects to the engine for oil leaks, this usually indicate a rear main seal leak, and is a lot of work to fix.
Interior Check:
This is a big area to check, so I will try to narrow it down as much as I possibly can, first of all your should check the carpet for wear, such as rips, tears, and fraying, check for dryness, or wet areas, this usually indicate a leak, such as a heater core.
Check the condition of the center console for cracks, breaks, and repair work in the past, look at both door panels for ripping, and tearing, if you find any, you know that you'll be replacing them, look at the dash panel, it's made out of plastic, so it can crack, fade, or just deteriorate over time.
Also look at the door seals, all the rubber around the doors, and top of the car, also check the seat belts for wear, or abuse, check both door latches for proper latching, you should always have two clicks before the door is all the way latched.
Check the steering wheel for wear, and if it's a tilt, or telescoping wheel check to make sure that both of those option are working correctly, check your convertible tops for alignment, or digging in to the car body, always check the seals around the tops.
Check all compartment doors, hinges, and latches to make sure that they are working correctly, inspect the windshield for leaks, and fiber glass bubbles, bubble here indicate rust around the windshield area of the car.
Road Test The Car:
Unless that car doesn't run, you should always road test it, start the car and turn on the windshield wipers, keep in mind that special versions of the Corvette didn't have wipers, we're talking about the L88, ZL1, and cars like these that were race cars that were put on the street.
Inspect windshield washers to make sure that they work, check all of the lights in the instrument panels, turn on the head lights and make sure that they are working properly, check the dimmer, and the interior lights, also do a walk around and look at the exterior lights.
Check The Gauges:
Make sure that you check all of the gauges to make sure that they are working correctly, and registering properly what they should, that about covers the interior check on the car, now we'll move on to a mechanical check.
Mechanical Check:
You should check all of these things first with the car in one place, and then again while the car is moving.
Does the park brake hold the car in place on an incline, does the manual transmission pop out of gear, this indicates bad synchronous gears, and is a transmission rebuild, make sure that the transmission shifts smoothly, a transmission that is hard to get in to a gear usually has bad synchros also.
Test that clutch sitting on an incline to see if it slips, this means that you need a new clutch, pressure plate, and usually a throw out bearing, if the car as an automatic transmission, make sure that it shifts smoothly between gears.
Also make sure that you automatic transmission shifts down quickly, and smoothly, listen to the car for clunks, thumps, clicks, and the like, check the A/C if the car had it, make sure that the speedometer is working right.
Braking:
Make sure that the car doesn't pull to one side, this indicates that you have a brake caliper binding when you step on the brake, also listen for squealing, this indicates that your brake pads are getting low, or you have something caught between the rotor, and the brake pad.
If the brake pedal feels to hard, it's an indicator that your vacuum booster is on the way out, or has gone all the way our, with the car parked put your foot on the brake, if it sinks slowly to the floor, this indicates that your master cylinder needs to be replaced, or your slave cylinders.
At Normal Driving Speeds:
Listen for excessive wind noise in the passenger are of the car, this means that it's time to replace the rubber seals in the car, feel for vibrations in the car, these can mean a lot of different things, from bad wheel balancing, to drive line balancing.
Does the steering wheel return to center after a turn, it should do this, if not you could have a steering gear box on the way out, fell also for the steering wheel to shimmy, this indicates suspension problems, could be as simple as bad shocks, but could be much worse, so consider it not a good thing.
That's about it for this article, i know it's a huge article, and it has a lot of information, but I thought that it was about time that I did this article in it's full glory, but have still ended up condensing it down, but I did get most everything that I could think of.
About the Author
Over my life in the automotive industry I have learned that I love the classic American cars, and in such have dedicated a lot of time to helping people restore their classic cars.
Should I trade my Mac for a 1995 Civic Hatchback?
So this guy offered to trade my Apple MacBook for his 1995 Civic Hatchback VX. The car apparenlty has low miles (40,000) but needs some minor work including a new clutch slave cylinder, battery, and the axle needs to be "put back on". Additionally, he said the car was used for circuit racing, so some of the stuff has been taken out including the AC and backseats. The race motor has been taken out, and was replaced with the original motor. With gas prices the way they are, would it be a good investment to trade this guy and fix this car?
Just for the record: Cars have always been "my thing" and I don't doubt my ability to fix this car. The car is road worthy and can be up and working for less than $200. I have a buddy who owns a local salvage yard who is willing to provide me with the necessary parts for a good price.
depends on how much your macbook is worth. you can get a used EG (1992-1995) civic hatchback for a few grand depending on condition. i pick one up for $3K as a project car but never got around to modifying it. i sold it for $3.5K a couple years later (fixed a few things and fully detailed it (restored the paint)). WORST decision i have ever made. i miss that car and want another one. it would get awesome mpg, and was a great commuter. if you can afford it, i would suggest just buying out right (you should be able to find one from (1.5K to 3K) in decent condition. if you cant afford one, and your macbook is worth 2K or more, DO NOT trade. if the macbook is worth 2K or less, DO trade.
Family, friends keep Kaukauna driver Brandon Wittman on the track at Wisconsin International Raceway
BUCHANAN When Brandon Wittman and Mike Lettau say that family comes first with their racing team, they arent kidding around.
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