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 KART RACING SEAT COVERS FOR GO KART RACING CHASSIS  US $58.00
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Occasionally I am asked what are the differences between a Formula 1 and Champ Car chassis. Yet how many people really know what a Champ Car is? (As I'm frequently asked to explain what they are)
Unfortunately the majority of today's non-racing savvy public only knows what "RASSCAR" (Nextel Cup) is... So my simple answer is: Do you know the cars that run at the Indianapolis 500? Those are "Indycars," which a Champ Car loosely resembles.
Although technically speaking, the Indy 500 is the sole domain of the Indy Racing League, which is NOT Champ Cars. This is due to the current state of Open Wheel racing having been divided between two opposing sanctioning bodies when the CART-IRL split occurred back in 1996...
The most noticeable visual difference between a Champ Car and IRL chassis is the rear engine cowling. Champ Cars being turbocharged do not utilize an overhead airbox. IRL cars feature a "Formula 1-esque" airbox to ram air into the engines induction buried inside the carbon fibre enclosure...
And yet this year's brand new Panoz DP-01 Champ Car will appear to be a hybrid of the series former Lola B2K chassis and a current spec Formula 1 contender with its new front wing treatment. The new Panoz will also utilize similar F1 steering wheel mounted paddle shifting and a host of new electronic engine management features including the removal of the ubiquitous "pop-off" valve...
Providing an interesting twist on the subject of Open Wheel racing cars terminal velocity was the announcement that F1's BAR-Honda would attack the Bonneville Salt Flats in October 2006 in an effort to break 400kph...
Further details were gleamed while watching last July's Formula 1 Qualifying at Silverstone. (Sat, 7/09/06) when the SPEED Channel's Bob Varsha made some interesting comments during the 5AM broadcast.
Varsha noted that the BAR-Honda "jalopy" was expected to "max-out" at 250+mph running a modified Formula 1 chassis with front and rear wings removed and utilizing a parachute...
This leads back to another question I'm often asked: Which is faster: "The chicken or the egg. The Coyote or the Road Runner?" ERR, Formula 1 or "chUmp carZs?"
This naturally leads to a comparison of rival machinery. The 2005 BAR-Honda 007 chassis is propelled by a 3.0 liter normally aspirated V-10,
rumoured to be producing 955bhp @ 19,200RPM's... Yet in July 2005, BAR-Honda was in LAST place of the F1 Constructor's standings.
Meanwhile the '05 Champ Car, the Lola/Cosworth 2.65 liter turbocharged V-8 was producing 750bhp @ 37" of boost. Utilizing Cosworth's "Push-to Pass" technology allows drivers 60 seconds of "turbo boost" creating an extra 50bhp to be applied for a maximum output of 800bhp.
During the waning years of Factory backed Champ Car (CART) racing, engines were fast approaching 900bhp. And in 2000 Gil de Ferran recorded Honda's fifth consecutive CART Drivers' championship while setting a new world closed-course speed record of 241.428 mph at California Speedway. (Fontana, CA: 2.5 mile Tri-Oval)
Meanwhile the F1 circus has hit "terminal velocity" speeds of 221+ mph along the front straight of Indianapolis while making the long blast down the straightaway by running full throttle for 21 seconds... (Prior to the 2005 Michelin tire DEBACLE!!! Fortunately I was attending the Portland GI Joes Champ Car race instead...)
This was prior to Formula 1's engine downsizing from 3.0 liter Normally Aspirated V-10's to 2.4 liter V-8's by lopping off two cylinders in an effort to reduce power outputs which were threatening to exceed 1,000bhp!
This had occurred in the mid 1980's during F1's Turbo era which had seen 1,100+ bhp during qualifying from the tiny 1.5 liter inline 4's and V-6 twin turbocharged motors. The spiraling horsepower increases led to the FIA (Formula 1's sanctioning body) choosing to return to normally aspirated engines with the introduction of 3.5 liter maximum displacement in 1989, with a reduction to 3.0 liters in 1990... (This engine formula stayed in place from 1990 to 2005)
The all time monsters were known as Can Am, which raced from 1966-1974. This saw the evolution of the all-conquering German Panzer, otherwise known as the Porsche 917/30 whose flat 12 turbocharged motor was rumoured to exceed 1,300bhp...
Yet In the mid-90's Porsche's direct descendant of the 917's: The 956's followed by the dominant 962's vs. Jaguar XJR's (Lemans prototypes) were both blasting down the 3.0 mile Mulsane straight just shy of 250mph. (246+ mph) This led to the addition of two chicanes being added to carve up the straightaway...
Of course top speed is simply relative to the vehicles application...
On Oct. 15, 1997 the British Thrust SSC became the first jet powered "automobile" to break the speed of SOUND! (Mach 1) The dual engine land jet blasted to a two way average speed of 766.609 mph...
And just where do the boundaries of ultimate speed end?
For example, the Lockheed SR-71 flies FASTER then a speeding bullet (3,000 mph), while the XB-70 Valkerie broke ALL records with a top speed of Mach 5! (3,700+ mph)
So which is ultimately faster: Formula 1 or Champ Cars? Unfortunately this will NEVER truly be answered as the two different forms of Open Wheel cruise missiles adhere to different engine formulas, rules packages, different tires, weights, fuels, gear ratios, etc. And the greatest limiting factor is the different aerodynamic rules enforced by Formula 1 vs. Champ Cars.
Even the racing is slightly different. While both race on traditional road circuits and apply the same "Point 'N Squirt" theory of racing. F1 chassis are more suited towards outright acceleration from corner to corner while Champ Cars were able to reach higher top speeds while continuously circling the banked super speedway ovals during the late 1990's or as exhibited by today's running of the Indy 500...
Yet during the 2006 Champ Car World Series raced at Montreal's Circuit Gilles Villenuve, site of the Canadian Formula 1 race, their lap times were nearly 7 seconds SLOWER then the F1 cars... (Lap Time Comparison: F1 = 1:14.942 vs. Champ Car = 1:21.856)
Tomas Rotelli is an aspiring Motor sports writer along with having been an avid Racing fan for the past two plus decades. Living in Seattle, WA I have enjoyed a multitude of varying racing venues consisting primarily of permanent road courses and temporary street circuits.
I made my foray into writing in the mid 1990Â’s while penning a monthly Ford Racing News Colum for WASAAC (Washington Shelby Automobile Club) for 6 yearsÂ…
I have been fortunate enough to attend a multitude of Vintage car races at various venues including: Monterey, Sonoma, Seattle and Portland. I have also enjoyed attending multiple Formula 1, Champ Cars (CART) and IMSA GTP & ALMS races over the preceding yearsÂ…
Go Kart Frames - Choosing the Right One for You
Karting enthusiasts emblazon the image of the perfect chassis in their minds: lightweight, yet powerfully durable material capable of launching a kart forward without the slightest wear or tear. Rare material that comes with the likes of professionally built popular race-cars like the illustrious McLaren. What about karts that could rip through side turns at speeding bullet speeds without raising a wheel a centimeter above the ground, gliding swiftly like a falco such as the futuristic cars in I, Robot? And along with perfect frames comes perfect tires, tires "grooven" to perfection providing the finest traction and downright freakish controls when running the curve.
Let's discuss the intricacies and place a perspective on frames for your go-kart. The chassis as it is called in professional and enthusiast circles, is by far the most important piece of this machine. The construction is paramount in maintaining a solid go-kart. What constitutes a frame? Think of a frame simply as parts holding a component together. In the case of these speedsters, the frame is welded together by torsion bars. Stiff frames are a result of shorter bars crossed together, and more flexible frames are associated with longer bars.
Stiff frames that do not provide flexibility were the backbone of earlier go-karts and broke down easily. First off, simpler go-karts do not have the specifications needed (most important, suspension and tire traction) to ease the punishment frames go through while turning, accelerating, and stopping. Running on 2 or 4 cycle engines does not help compensate the health of a frame. A lack of traction on your tires will cause uneven weight transfer and stability on your frame, ripping one or both sides loose at the same time. In essence, the frame is responsible for determining how well your vehicle moves zipping on asphalt, concrete, or dirt - dictating your performance on wide turns and shorter turns.
A sturdy, well-built frame is the key to manoeuvring well on the track, especially when turning. Wait, isn't a frame supposed to be resistant to the rigors and demands of punishing your go-kart as it explodes forward? Of course - but the most important criteria for an excellent frame is to negotiate turns well. Frames are directly responsible for how well go-karts turn left and right. Weaker go-karts with cheap components are known to slide and drift along turns - in some instances, flipping to its side entirely with careless driving. "Side bite" is referred to keeping a go-kart planted to the track without sliding. Without the proper frame, go-karts will manoeuvre out of control, even shutting off in some cases due to over pressure to the engine.
The design of the go-kart chassis has everything to do with how well it moves on turns and maintaining side bite. If the width of the rear rails (go-kart frames constitute front rails and rear rails) is narrow, with measurements ranging from 24¨ to 25¨ - from "kingpin" to "kingpin", the ends of the rail - it will have less side bite. Wider rails barely ever exceed 30¨ on standard go-karts. The dynamics of the front and rear rails can be effectively pictured using this example: suppose you had two bottles - a two-gallon jug and a 16 oz. Water bottle. Giving it a swift, hard poke to its side - which container has the best chance of tipping to its side? If you guessed the water bottle, you guessed right! Wider rails provide stability and "foundation" while turning, reducing the side bite overall.
Choosing the right frame for your go-kart can largely depend on the surface you are riding on. Whether it is asphalt, concrete, or dirt - different types of frames behave differently according to surface. For example, dirt track frames should consist of a short front rail and a longer back rail. Dirt tracks place a lot of stress and challenge on the front rail and stiff back rails zipping through dirt can cut power to the engine while cutting a turn. The best frame for riding dirt tracks are ones with narrow fronts and longer backs, vice versa to asphalt and concrete.
The A-1 performance of a frame largely depends on tire traction as well. Low traction tires (tires that do not "stick" well to the ground) are not grooved enough to withstand the rigors of the surface, rattling the stiff frame to oblivion. It also causes uneven weight transfer throughout the go-kart, and that is a no-no for maintaining optimum control of your money maker. Consider this scenario: you have two pairs of roller skates. One has wheels half-an-inch in width and the other has 3-inch-wide wheels. Which pair would provide better balance as you roller skate? If you love mathematics, treat traction as a formula with the equation: traction = stability. Go ahead, transform yourself into a karting aficionado with this valuable piece of knowledge!
A major issue among karting enthusiasts is the durability and longevity of flexible frames. Exposure to punishing breaks and turns, along with the gruelling hits to track walls every now and then, can distort the frame which cannot be "popped" back to its original condition. Experts recommend replacing frames every year. There are many maintenance techniques you could practice on your kart to keep flexibility intact like running your kart through a course backwards. Racing a kart using the finish line as your starting point and your starting point as the finish line will have a "reverse effect" on the frame, shaping it opposite of what it would be shaped if you were racing the course normally. It's like turning back the hands of time on your speedster!
The question over choosing the right go-kart chassis boils down to flexibility. High traction tires and a stiff frame is a recipe for disaster, causing your machine to turn stiffly and generate strenuous effort on the curves. Low traction tires will cause uneven weight transfer and break apart your frame like bread crumbs. Options for frames mainly depend on what type of go-kart you're riding, as each go-kart and their engine work best under certain scenarios. Stiff frames are a staple of 2-cycle and 4-cycle engines and flexible frames are found with higher horsepower engines. Remember, the more rigorous the circuit, the more flexible a chassis should be!
About the Author
Michael Walker is a freelance author providing information about a variety of go-kart topics including go kart kits, dune buggy kits and blue print to a go kart. His articles prove to be both a useful and entertaining resource of valuable information for the karting enthusiast.
Go kart Racing. Getting Started?
After i buy the rolling chassis with tires
then i buy this engine.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Yamaha-KT-100S-Clubman-Motor_W0QQitemZ260400096534QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Go_Kart_Parts_Accessories?hash=item260400096534&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A10|39%3A1|240%3A1318
what else will i need after that?
i will need a muffler and what else to get the kart going?
You will need a racing track of course.
WSK EU: Series Sarno preview
The WSK Euro Series is getting ready for the final rush in Italy, at the Circuito Internazionale Napoli in Sarno. The karting champions are going to defy each other under Vesuvius in live TV broadcasting, by Rai Sport 2 on 6th June, from 2:45pm to 4:00pm.
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