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Pulley Alignment Shims
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 Small Block Chevy Water Pump Pulley Alignment Shim Kit/ 64035/ DS364-90  US $23.99
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Your vehicle's radiator is the component that removes heat from the engine through thermal heat exchange as heat from the engine is transferred to the engine coolant and then circulated through the thermostat and the radiator. Replacing a car radiator yourself isn't the easiest under-the-hood job, but, with the proper tools and a little bit of patience, you can save yourself hundreds on repair costs. Here's how.
Note: these are general instructions and may not be applicable to every make, model and year. Before beginning any maintenance on your vehicle, always consult your owner's manual for additional instructions and safety precautions.
Step 1: Locate the radiator drain plug - typically near the lowest point of the radiator - and open it to drain any coolant into a catch basin.
Step 2: Detach the hoses from the radiator by loosening the clamps and pulling the hoses off their attachment necks. If you find yourself needing additional room, remove the auxiliary belts by sliding them off their pulleys.
Step 3: Remove the engine cooling fan and radiator shroud. As mentioned above, this step is vehicle-specific. In general, though, you can use a wide box wrench to release the mounting bolt that holds the fan to the engine. After doing so, set your cooling fan down upright, making sure to protect the clutch.
Step 4: Remove the shroud by loosening the mounting hardware that holds it in place. Note: you may have to pull both the fan and the shroud off together if you're unable to pull them out separately due to space constraints.
Step 5: Remove any remaining mounting screws, bolts or clips, making sure to keep them in one location to prevent loss.
Step 6: Lift the radiator away from the engine, making sure to have some towels or a catch basin underneath the radiator to catch any remaining coolant still inside the radiator.
Step 7: Carefully insert the replacement radiator into place, making sure to be cautious of the cooling fans and hose necks.
Step 8: Replace screws, bolts, clips and all other mounting hardware.
Step 9: Reinstall the cooling fan and shroud by reversing the removal process indicated in steps 3 and 4 above.
Step 10: Next, reattach the cooling hoses, making sure they are attached snugly but not too tight. Cooling hoses can become brittle and fail with age. You may want to replace them during this step for optimal performance. And, if you replace one of them, replace them all.
Step 11: If you removed the auxiliary belts to allow for extra work space, reinstall them now by sliding them back over their pulleys and adjusting the tension by turning the tension-adjustment nuts and bolts.
Step 12: Mix the engine coolant with distilled water in the right proportions for your vehicle and pour it into the proper area.
Step 13: Start the vehicle and let it run to circulate the coolant, adding more if necessary.
Step 14: Finally, bleed the air from the system by locating the bleed valve and opening it with a wrench. Watch for bubbles. When the bubbles stop bleeding from the system and your coolant is up to its proper temperature, you're done!
One final bit of advice: when selecting your replacement radiator, make sure you choose one that has been custom-designed for your ride, like Flex-a-lite aluminum radiators. Flex-a-lite products are manufactured specific to each vehicle. So, whether you're looking for Chevy radiators, Ford radiators, GMC radiators, F150 radiators, Tahoe radiators or Yukon radiators, you're guaranteed to get parts that are engineered just for you-which always makes installation a heck of a lot easier!
Installing a car radiator, like Chevy radiators and Ford radiators, are one of those do-it-yourself projects that takes a little extra time but always makes up for it with the money you save. In addition, quality components, like those produced by Flex-a-lite, will last longer than stock parts, ensuring you'll only have to do the job once!
Dealing With Stuck Windows And Doors
here are few things more annoying than stuck windows or doors. Especially if you are in a hurry, you don't want to be struggling with a door to get going
Windows
There are many reasons a window may stick. Windows are usually made of wood and wood can expand or contract. Parts of a window may have been painted over that need to move, or sometimes the surfaces stick together. All of these problems can be solved.
-If a joint is painted over, cut the paint with a putty knife tool made for this purpose called a window zipper. Hold the blade against the sash and push the edge into the joint and pull it along.
-If there is paint build up from years of painting over, use a paint scraper to remove the excess paint from the window stop, parting strip and blind stop, all the while raising and lowering the sash. If it is a lower sash, you can remove the sash and scrape out the edges facing the window. As a final desperate measure, you can remove both sashes and strip all of the paint off and repaint and reinstall.
-If there is too much friction, lubricate the sash channels with wax or talcum powder. This prevents painted surfaces from sticking together. If weather stripping is blocking the channel, use a hammer to flatten the stripping.
-If the window is stuck for no apparent reason, a sharp rap to the center rail near the lock may loosen what is stuck. Use the palm of your hand or a rubber mallet.
-If you are losing heat in addition to having stuck windows, it may be worth the effort to replace the friction channels. Remove the sashes, weights and pulleys, and, using a rod or stick, push fiberglass into the openings for the weight cavities. With a hammer and chisel, notch the ends of the top parting strip to create new channels, and then replace the sashes in the window frame between the new channels. Tilt the assembly back into the opening and then reinstall the interior stops and adjust the tension. If the window is too loose, hammer a wood block against the stop at the nails to increase tension. Nail in additional nails when the tension is just right.
Doors
Usually door stick for the same reasons that windows do, but hinges may add some new reasons and complications.
-If the door is rubbing against the door jamb on the hinge side, shim the hinges out by unscrewing the hinge and placing a piece of cardboard behind it. If the door is rubbing against the door jamb on the other side, you may have to plane the door down. Mark the spot where it is rubbing and take the door down. Lay the door down and plane in the appropriate spot.
-If the hinge screws are loose, wedge the door open and remove the screws. Fold back the hinge and fit small wood pieces into the holes. Add glue and plane until the hole is filled and flush, then drill in new screws.
-If the door stop is binding on the hinge side of a door, pry off the stop. Then draw a line where the door closes and reposition the stop to the new position.
-If the latch and strike are out of alignment (usually because of settling of the house), you will have to adjust the strike plate. If it is too far, shim it with cardboard; if it is too close, remove the strike plate, chisel out a new mortise and drill new holes and replace the strike. You may have to fill the old mortise hole and sand it down.
About the Author
Kurt Schefken continually writes detailed papers on areas similar to best miter saws and woodworking saws. His
abstracts on best table saws
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