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Pro Eliminator Helmet
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 G-FORCE Racing Pro Eliminator Helmet LARGE WHITE Hat Size 7 3/8 - 7 1/2  US $249.99
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 G-FORCE Racing Pro Eliminator Helmet LARGE BLACK Hat Size 7 3/8 - 7 1/2 US $249.99
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G-Force 3023XLGBK Pro Eliminator Black X-Large SA10 Full Face Racing Helmet List Price: $279.99 Sale Price: $249.99  |
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G-FORCE Racing #3023XLGBK Helmet, Pro Eliminator, Full Face, X-Large, Cool Tec Liner, Snell SA2010, Black, Each. G50-3023XLGBK Description: A sleek new design from G-FORCE Racing Gear, the Pro Eliminator has provided a new benchmark in quality, functionality and style. From the outside in you will notice the difference. The outer contact shell is made from a low density, lightweight Z38 Fiberglass, Carbon, and Kevlar® composite blend. The shell is then coated with deep, rich white or black gloss, or matte black paint and finished with a protective clear coat outer layer. The rear of the helmet is accented with double ridge lines that add both style and strength to the Pro Eliminator's shell. Reinforced mounting points for the Hans® Helmet Restraint Devices are built into the shell during production for added durability. The G-FLOW Ventilation System siphons air into the chin bar ports, around the heated interior and siphons out the top and rear vents to aid in cooling. An optically correct, .125" thick, ProFit Shield encloses the extra wide eye port opening and secures to the rubberized, eye port gasket to keep dust and dirt out. The ProFit Shield is held in place by two aircraft aluminum, wide-head bolts for easy change-out and removal. The thumb indention makes lifting the shield, even with gloves, simple and clean. The pivot kit contains 5 shield ratchet positions so that the driver can adjust to their liking. The front of the helmet is completed with a smooth-slope, auto racing chin bar which is different than a motorcycle, sharp-nosed design. On the inside, G-FORCE Racing Gear has produced the most user friendly, comfortable helmet on the market. The heart of the Pro Eliminator helmet is the G-78 impact liner... |
Here are some more information for Pro Eliminator Helmet:
Perhaps among the most taken for granted piece of the drag strip is something intangible, always fleeting, and something we drag racers try to keep to an absolute minimum: time. Time is a drag racers best friend and enemy. A split-second is close to an eternity as races are frequently won and lost by mere ten-thousandths of a second.
Methods for generating lap-times have evolved over the course of organized drag racing's 60-year life. Perhaps the most ground breaking innovation in timing advancements came from early drag racing organizer C.J. Hart in 1950. Hart fashioned a timing system comprised of two photo cells that would record a racers top speed. Long before the construction of elaborate, purpose built timing towers, Hart's timing system was operated from an out of commission hearse stationed near the finish line. Just outside the hearse, Hart would post on a score board the top speeds of the meet and the names of those fast drivers. The introduction of this timing system actually preceded the formal establishment of quarter mile racing, as meets at the time were generally contested at roughly three-tenths of a mile.
Today, this technology translates into the bright orange cubes we see strategically placed between the two lanes over the distance of the quarter-mile. These "timing cones" are actually photo cells, similar to what C.J. Hart introduced in 1950. The timing system has become further sophisticated, now recording incremental times, total elapsed times, and average miles per hour. Times are now recorded at 60', 330', 660' (1/8-mile, half track), 1,000', and 1,320'(1/4-mile, finish line). Average mile per hour is also calculated at the 1/8-mile and ¼-mile marks on the drag strip.
A modern day, sophisticated timing system is capable of measuring ETs as precise as one-millionth (0.000001) of a second. However, all of the ultra fancy high-tech fiber-optic and digital technology in the world is useless if the driver can't make sense of the data generated. Aside from the elapsed times determining the outcome of the race, the precise numbers found on your time slip are highly beneficial in helping improve your driving skills.
There is no better place to begin this discussion than the starting line. A common misconception of newcomers is that the ET (elapsed time) clock begins when the green starting line bulb is lit. This is a false misunderstanding. In fact, there are two separate time recordings taken on the race track: reaction time and elapse time. The reaction time is the time elapsed from the flash of the green bulb to the motion of the vehicle as it completely leaves the starting line beam. If that seemed a bit too much, let me refresh your memory and elaborate further.
Recall, timing sensors are triggered by the disruption of a photocell. Lining the drag strip at strategic locations are photocells that project an invisible beam that contacts a reflector (the orange cube) on the center line. The disturbed beam triggers the timing system. The stage light (second set of yellow incandescent bulbs just above the first amber LED bulb) on the Christmas tree tells the starter and fellow competitor that you are prepared and committed to running the race. The stage light is activated by the starting line beam. The time that passes between the green bulb lighting and the front tire of the race car exiting the stage beam accounts for the driver's reaction time. A perfect reaction on a typical five-tenths (0.500) of a second full-tree (three amber bulbs countdown sequentially in half (0.500) second intervals) is 0.500 seconds, or more simply converted today as 0.000 seconds.
The Christmas tree has had a number of facelifts during its nearly 50-year long stint as the standard method of starting competition drag races. Throughout the 1950s and early 1960s, a flagman standing between the two race cars would signal when the drivers were to launch off the starting line. The obvious dangers and subjectivity of using a flagman contributed to design and implementation of the Christmas tree. The Christmas tree made its formal debut at the 1963 NHRA Nationals. The Christmas tree originally consisted of five-amber bulbs but was reduced to it's now standard three-amber bulbs in the mid-1980s. In 2003, the NHRA introduced LED bulbs, replacing the once standard incandescent amber bulbs.
Two basic Christmas tree designations exist: pro tree and full tree.
The pro tree is used primarily in heads-up categories (Top Fuel, Funny Car, Pro Stock, Pro Modified, Pro Stock Bike, Top Alcohol Dragster and Funny Car, and Super Comp/Gas/Street). With the pro tree, all three-amber lights illuminated instantly.
The full tree is primarily used for bracket-style dial-in races, when a staggered tree is necessary to accommodate vehicles of sometimes vastly different ETs. Such categories using a full tree include Competition Eliminator, Super Stock, Stock Eliminator, Super Pro, Pro, Sportsman, and Junior Dragster. With the full tree, each amber bulb illuminates sequentially, typically 0.500-seconds.
Yes, there are exceptions to these general rules of thumb. For instance, the majority of pro tree races are contested on a 0.400-second tree, where 0.400-seconds separate the yellow amber bulbs and the green bulb. The Super Street (10.90 heads-up) category, however, is an exception as they use a 0.500-second tree.
Regardless of 0.400- or 0.500-second trees, the driver's time slip will read perfect as a standardized 0.000-second. To demonstrate, what was once a 0.500-second perfect reaction time would now be a 0.000-second perfect reaction time. The same goes for 0.400-second perfect reaction times. Thus, any deviation from a perfect 0.000-second reaction time will be recorded as a -/+ 0.000-second.
-Simpson
8 Skateboarding Safety Tips
If you were to ask me for a few skateboarding safety tips I would say…
1. Skate within your level. Don't push yourself too hard. If you dont think you can handle the trick you're about to try, then don't do it. Simply put, don't try to show off by doing something dangerous. Use your common sense and skate in places which have your level of obstacles.
2. Gradually advance. This goes along with the first tip. Work up to ollieing over four boards by first trying two and then three. Work on variel flip before trying to learn how to do a 360 flip. Skate the four foot ramp, then the six, then the eight. It sounds like common sense, but a lot of times people get into “the zone” and forget what’s safe for them.
3. Know your limit. It’s fine to push yourself hard when you’re skating. It helps you get better overall. You need to know your limit however. If you have tried about a hundred times to land a kickflip on a new stairs set, just give it a break. Those stairs probably wont be going anywhere soon. Remember to rest when you’re tired.
4. Wear your helmet and pads. Most kids don't wear their helmets. I've seen some pretty bad falls. All it takes is one time to get really messed up. Some skate parks don’t enforce pads rules. It’s skate at your own risk. That sentence alone should be enough to make you want to wear pads. It is risky to skate without them. I don’t care if it’s not the cool thing or if your favorite pro doesn’t wear them. Most likely, you are not a pro skateboarder. You should wear pads and a helmet anytime you are trying something you are not 100 percent sure of.
5. Keep hydrated. Sounds silly, but dehydration leads to a lot of accidents. Not only that, but it can be bad for your body in the long run too. And, if that’s not enough, you skate better and are more flexible when properly hydrated! So always bring along a water bottle or two.
6. Examine the spot you’re about to skate. Make sure there are no rocks where you’ll be skating. Check for glass, the streets where I grew up were filthy and littered with broken glass. Sweep up that stuff. You don’t want to have to remove rocks from your hands and elbows. Keep an eye out for rusty nails and metal pieces, etc…
7. Skate during the day. It’s hard to see at night. When it’s dark, you won’t be able to skate as well. You won’t land tricks as often and this can lead to more bails and falls. You also can see other skaters better during the day. If you’re at a park at night, there’s a good chance of running into someone else on their skateboard. Another note here. If the park closes at night, please don't break in and try to skate. You could end up hurt and in a lot of trouble while no one is there. Sometimes parks get shut down over things like that too.
8. Be aware of the temperature. If it’s hot out, make sure you have drinks ready. If it’s cold, bring gloves and a beanie. Don’t stay out too long in the cold. You might think your body is fine, because you’re feeling warm and producing heat. You can develop serious health issues from cold weather. Extreme temperatures are dangerous. Heat stroke and frost bite are seriously potential problems. It doesn’t matter what age you are either.
I hope these skateboarding safety tips have given you some insight into safety on your skateboard. Although these are great tips, there’s no way to completely eliminate risk from skateboarding. Many consider it an extreme sport for a reason. It has obvious dangers. Trust me, getting hurt doesn’t make skateboarding more fun. So skate smart and safely and you will have a good time.
About the Author
Among many things Dean Pugliese is a skateboarder and writer. If you want to get some great information on skateboarding all you need is his website, http://www.relaxed-skateboarding.com . It’s full of great articles and information for skaters at all levels.
Destinee Williams is making her mark in the Super Eliminator class at Maple Grove Raceway
Destinee Williams is a teenager with a need for speed.Williams, 18, a 2010 Garden Spot High graduate, races her Super Eliminator dragster every weekend at Maple Grove Raceway in Berks County. The first-year participant in the Super Class is no stranger to the Mohnton track, having raced since she wa...
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