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Lug Bolts Nuts
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 14x1.5 Chrome Conical Seat Lug Bolts Brand New Wheel Nuts 27mm Shank Set of 10  US $20.98
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 02 JAGUAR X-TYPE LUG NUTS BOLTS US $6.00
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Maybe you've spent a lot of time and money getting your boat ready for this spring and summer boating season. But have you got your trailer ready? After all if you don't make it to your launch destination or you don't make it back there is not much fun to that outing you have looked forward to all winter.
Preventative maintenance now can save hundreds of dollars later, avoid a breakdown, or even prevent a disastrous wreck. It is extremely dangerous when a wheel comes off a trailer at highway speeds, or failed brakes jack knife a rig.
Wheel bearings are the common and frequent maintenance item on a trailer. Seized bearings can cause hubs, wheels, tires and axles to fail. At least once a year completely disassemble the trailer hubs, clean and inspect the bearings. Use a parts washer and solvent of mineral spirits, kerosene or gasoline, taking the standard safety precautions.
Check carefully for visible signs of wearing, heat or oxidation discoloration, gouges or pitting. Needle bearings should feel absolutely smooth. Also clean the hub casing thoroughly and inspect the races inside the hub. These should be perfectly smooth with no marks, grooves or pitting.
Replace any suspect bearings and races and always replace the hub seal after each inspection. Use double lip seals for boat trailers that are immersed in water. These are spring loaded to maintain tension on the seal and prevent water entering the hub.
Before repacking bearings and hubs with new grease and reassembly, inspect the axle, springs, mounting brackets, brakes and fittings. Look for scale rust in leaf springs, u-bolts, and axles. Saltwater use and outdoor storage can quickly corrode metal to the point of imminent failure. Ensure that there are no broken or bent parts and replace as necessary. Check that the axle stub where the hub seal sits is smooth and without pitting, grooves or wear. The seal must fit tightly on the axle to be effective and not fail prematurely. A warning sign is if you see grease has been spun out on the inside of the wheels. Replace the hub and bearing before it fails on the road.
Bearing buddy type devices can disguise the loss of grease on the inside and can overload the bearing seals with too much pressure. A grease fitting is a better solution and should be used when replacing an axle. Some types of systems load grease from the inside bearing to the outside, pushing old grease and water to the outside.
Clean and check the wheel rims for corrosion or any sign of damage. Ensure that the tires have plenty of tread and that the sidewalls are smooth, not cracked or damaged. Look at the manufacturing date code on the sidewall. There are four numbers that indicate the week and year of manufacture. A tire approaching ten years old may fail from deterioration even if the tread is adequate.
Inflate the tires to the proper pressure. Remember that trailer tires are rated for higher pressure than cars and require 50 psi or more. Under inflation is a major cause of tires overheating, wearing rapidly and blowouts. Be sure that the spare wheel and tire are also in good condition.
When replacing the wheels clean the threads of the studs and lug nuts. Tighten them dry with a torque wrench to the correct tension for the size of the stud: 7/16-inch diameter 50 to 60 lb-ft; 12mm diameter 70 to 80 lb-ft; 1/2-inch diameter 80 to 90 lb-ft; 5/8-inch diameter 110 to 125 lb-ft. Be sure you are able to remove the nuts if you need to change the wheel on the side of the road.
Carry some spares with you in the event of breakdown. Besides the spare wheel, keep a spare castle nut and split pin, and set of bearings, plus the tools needed to replace them. It could save you a long and expensive tow in the middle of nowhere.
Finally, do not overload your trailer and tow vehicle. Check that you have adequate towing capacity and that the tongue weight is within the proper range for your rig.
You can find helpful resources at Trailer Parts & Accessories and new and used trailers and components such as boat trailer parts and trailer wheels.
You Can Do It Yourself -- You Can Install Alloy Wheels
You decided to buy new alloy wheels and new tires for the car you have just bought for yourself. It is not brand new, but it is a new car to you anyway and the stock wheels just do not cut it. It needed a paint job so you got that done. Now, you really like the way the paint shines and you have added a new audio system inside, so now you have some awesome tunes going too. The next thing you want to do is go get those cool looking alloy wheels you checked out yesterday.
After you bought new the new wheels and tires and checked out the cost of having them installed professionally, you have decided to put those new alloys on yourself. The tires have already been put on the rims by someone qualified to do the job, so your part is going to be easy. It is better to have tires done by a professional with the proper equipment. You will probably save yourself from a serious injury and a lot of pain.
Most of us have changed a flat tire at one time or another and know that it is not that difficult to do. It is no more difficult to take off the old steel wheels and install the new alloy wheels. Before you get started, remember that, as with any kind of installation, there are preparations to make first. Before you bought the new wheels, you made sure that the lug bolts on the hubs match up with the holes on the wheels. With that out of the way, you can proceed.
Since you are probably installing the new alloy wheels at home in your garage or driveway, you most likely do not have a lift like the ones used in mechanic shops. In which case, you will be raising one tire at a time off the ground. Make sure that you have a good sturdy jack that was made to work properly with your make and model of vehicle. Hydraulic jacks are the easiest to use. A few other tools you will need too are a socket wrench or lug wrench for removing and replacing the lug nuts, a crow bar to help make it easier when removing the old wheels, and a cloth to shine up your new alloy wheels after you are done.
After you have positioned the jack and have raised the first old wheel and tire, using the wrench loosen and remove all of the lug nuts. Set them aside in a container so they do not get lost, because you will be putting them back on later. Use the crowbar to help remove the old wheels and then position and put on the new alloy wheel. Make sure the new wheel sits flush with the hub, then replace the lug nuts, and tighten them securely with the wrench. Lower the jack and go on to the next one.
Once you have gotten all four of your new alloy wheels installed, use the cloth to shine up those new beauties.
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does it matter if i use acorn or mag lug nuts?
i have a 86 camaro iroc with centerline rims, and im debating if the acorn ones will work. there just on the rim, without any depth for longer lugs, any advice? the ones on there now just look like bolts. rusty ones at that.
you need to get the proper lug nuts recommended for that type of wheel and your vehicle or you could run into a lot of problems when your wheel flys off driving down the road, been there done that.
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