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Inboard Brake Kit
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Wilwood 140-10797 NDP 12.19"/.810" Rotor Inboard Brake Kit Sale Price: $467.28  |
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RC Components Inboard Brake Kit KA240IBBKIT List Price: $648.95 Sale Price: $580.12 |
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Moves rotor and caliper to the drive side for the ultimate clean lookMust be used with RC Components Inboard Brake WheelsInclude bracket, caliper, brake line and all necessary hardware for installationThis Item Fits the Following Applications:2008 Kawasaki ZX1400 Ninja ZX-142007 Kawasaki ZX1400 Ninja ZX-142006 Kawasaki ZX1400 Ninja ZX-14 |
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RC Components Inboard Brake Kit SU240IBBKIT List Price: $648.95 Sale Price: $579.83 |
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Moves rotor and caliper to the drive side for the ultimate clean lookMust be used with RC Components Inboard Brake WheelsInclude bracket, caliper, brake line and all necessary hardware for installationThis Item Fits the Following Applications:2007 Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa2006 Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa2005 Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa2004 Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa2003 Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa2002 Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa2001 Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa2000 Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa1999 Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa |
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When looking to buy new road bike wheels, the choice on offer can be utterly overwhelming. As a serious road rider, you want the best performance and reliability that your budget can afford. Not only do you need to consider aerodynamics, but you also need to consider the weight of the wheels, as heavy wheels will dramatically slow you down.
Easton EA90 Aero Wheels
The Easton EA90 is the latest update for the Tempest II aluminium set of wheels. Just like the previous version, this wheel is light, fast and stiff. Feature of the Easton AE90 Aero Wheels include:
• Weight - Pair: 1545 g, Rear 890 g, Front: 655 g
• 700C wheel size
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• Gen4 black anodized shot-peen finish rims with a welded machined brake surface, 32mm rear, 28mm front.
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DT Swiss RRC
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For more help and information with choosing the right road bike wheels then look no further.
Wreck Fishing Tips
Wrecks can be anything from just a mile offshore to 35 / 40 miles offshore, which can mean that it will take several hours steaming to get to the chosen wrecks
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There are two ways of fishing wreck - ever by drifting over the wreck with the tide or at anchor. The style depends on the tides and depth that the wreck is at . The skipper will always let you now what type he will be fishing on booking of the boat
How do charter boat skippers know were these wrecks are? Well it can be a case of the skipper literally spends many years of trial and error to find them. Or there are lots of books that will list likely wrecking marks
Skippers also use the latest electronics to help them. If you ever look in side a boats cabin you will see an array of fish finders and GPS navigation aid
What type of fish will I catch?
The idea of wreck fishing is to go after the lager fish that hold up on the wrecks. Fish are drawn to wrecks because they offers a reef / rocky out crop like environments
This means that fish can hold up in the wrecks as they offer shelter from the tides and a source of food
Fish that are generally target when wreck fishing are
Pollock
Bass
Conger
Ling
Cod
Fish sizes vary but you can catch fish from just a few pounds in weight and up to over 100lb (conger)
Wreck fishing tackle
Quick tip - get proper wrecking booms of about 10 - 15 inches long as they keep the flowing trace away from your mainline
Pirks - These are lead made lures with a treble hook at the bottom of the pirk . You can use them in conjunction with muppets
Pirks - are worked by jigging them ( lifting the rod up and down )
Shads - Fish shaped lures that are worked by reeling in
Worms - Worm shaped lures that are worked by reeling in
Grubs - Often over looked but can be kill lures and are worked by reeling in
Quick tips
Vary the speed that you that you retrieve your lures and remember that the speed of the tide also effects the action of the lure
On the drop down keep you finger on you spool so that you control the speed of the decent. If you do not you will only end up with a birds nest (tangle)
When you are working your lures count how many turns up you get your fish. This will save time if they are being taken say 40 turns up as you can quickly go to that depth
Have a good supply of rigs made up as if you loose your rig on a wreck it can be quickly replaced ready for the next drift
Rods You will need a stand up boat rod such as a Penn Ugly stick with rods being 20lb test curve as begin the lighter work through to 50lb for the big conger and ling
Reels
The reels you will need to be using are multipliers. The reason for this is because they can handle the weight of bringing up fish from such depth. Also they carry a lot more line
Line There are two choices what type of line to use
Monofilament line This is the standard fishing line , which as the benefits of being able to stretch a little bit . As for your line strength this can vary from 20 to 50lb and more so if in doubt just ask your skipper for advice but as a guideline 25lb will handle most wrecking situations.
The down side to monofilament line is that of the diameter of the line which will get caught in the tidal flow causing the line to bow and will result is you having to use a heaver lead weight
If you are new to wrecking monofilament line is the best to go for
Braid fishing line
This is a very low diameter fishing line which gives you a much great contact with what is going on . Because of it lower diameter you will be able to use less weight to fish , which is a great bounce when pull fish from depths of a hundred feet or so
WARNING - Never use your hands to hold your line if it gets stuck on a wreck a you could loose your fingers. Let out plenty of line then rape your line round a piece of wood ect and then pull your line free. Skippers will always help you and have the correct piece of kit to get you free, if in doubt ask for help from the skipper
Lures
Lures are made from plastics and are design for their action in the water. Coming an a Variety of colours and even luminous (glow in low light conditions0
As the majority of fish you will be targeting when wreck fishing are predatory fish (fish that hunt and eat other fish) the most come form of fishing are with lures
The most common three are shads / grubs / pirks and worms
All of these are fished on a the rig below with the flowing trace of anything from 6 to 15 to 20 foot long (remember the skipper will help on best lengths).
Trolling For Rockfish
Trolling is the preferred angling method for those targeting striped bass (a.k.a. rockfish) during the spring and fall seasons on the Chesapeake Bay. The two primary areas that are the focus of this article are the recommended tackle and techniques required to catch rockfish.
TACKLE: Over the years we have experimented with many different setups some that worked well and some that didn't. Below are my recommendations as to what works best.
RODS: For your planer board rods I recommend a 6 to 6 ½ foot 30 to 50 pound class rod. The rods need to have a gimbal and a solid set of guides. Stay away from guides with ceramic inserts. Roller guides are not required and a likely sign that you over spent. We use offshore angler's power sticks which are available from bass pro shops and should last a lifetime. Cost is around $90 per rod. All of the required characteristics for your boat rods are the same except I recommend a 40 to 60 pound class rod because your boat rods are going to typically be used to troll relatively heavier baits including in line sinkers.
REELS: For your planer board reels I recommend Shimano Tekoda 700's and for the boat reels I recommend Shimano Tekoda 800's. When you get the reels you will want to adjust the reel handles out 1 place to the farthest position as this will give the angler more leverage on the fish when cranking the handle.
LINE: For your planer board reels I recommend 50 pound test mono either clear or dark green camouflage. I tend to stay away from the high visibility lines when fishing the Chesapeake Bay. I also typically do not put braided line on my board reels because braided line has a higher propensity to slip out of the scotty clip. If you prefer to use braided line on your planer board reels, and many folks do, then I recommend at least 80 pound test to ensure the line does not inadvertently slip out of the clip. For the boat reels I recommend 65 pound test moss green power pro. I also have no problem spooling a couple of the reels up with monel wire. I grew up using wire and we still catch plenty of rockfish on wire line each season. As for your leaders I recommend 60 pound test fluorocarbon but given the cost any clear or low visibility monofilament will suffice.
LURES: We use mostly chartreuse and white tandem rigs with parachutes affixed. We also use umbrella rigs. Our tandems are typically 2 to 4, 4 to 6 and 6 to 8 ounce combos with 9 inch shads attached. We typically use products produced by local outfitters. For more information as to the specific companies and brands we use please contact me via email at the email address given below and I will provide you several folks who can meet your needs. I should point out that we do adjust our trailing baits quite often and have found that green and chartreuse tomic plugs, made in France, work very well. Also don't be afraid to use a crippled alewive or tony accetta spoon either.
THE SPREAD: We run 21 lines from a 35 foot Carolina Classic express sportfisherman with a 14 foot beam. I know many a charter captains who run many more lines than that. My philosophy is simple. Troll as many lines as you're comfortable with. Mitigating factors should include the number of accessible rod holders you have, your vessel's beam width, and your crew's experience level. The last thing you want to do is compete against a charter boat. Most charter boats run 2 trips a day and deploy as many rods as possible because it greatly increases the odds that they can return to the dock with happy customers in time to pick up their next party. Your typical fisherman that is out there for the love of the sport shouldn't need a 140 feet span of planer line and 30 rods deployed to catch rockfish.
PLANER BOARD MATH: At the onset of your fishing day you need to stagger your distances and weights as you need to find where in the water column the rockfish are feeding and adjust your trolling depths appropriately. Be careful not to put your heaviest lures to the far outside position on your planer boards because this increases the likelihood of a tangle when the bait is struck. We typically work lightest to heaviest without significant weight variation on our board lines. I would not recommend deploying to the planer lines any tandem with a combined weight in excess of 14 ounces. We recommend you leave the deeper running heavier rigs for the boat rods not the planer boards. When deploying your planer rods be sure to adjust the bait's distance behind the boat appropriately remembering that the farthest bait out if struck and pulled from your clip will drop the farthest distance behind the boat. For instance, if your planer board is tracking 100 feet a beam of your vessel and you drop a bait back 120 feet and then run it all the way out to the planer board when struck you will have the fish 220 feet behind the boat. Why is this important to note? Because you must be careful to adjust each additional line you put out on your planer board line to ensure appropriate separation. If you fail to do so you'll spend more time sorting through tangles than fishing. For instance, given the example above you would not want to put the next bait 140 feet behind the boat and send it to a position 80 feet a beam of your vessel because if both baits get struck at the same time the 2 fish will be right on top of one another exactly 220 feet behind your boat. At that point the only distance separating the 2 fish and the 220 feet line spans is the horizontal distance between the respective rod holders.
BOAT HANDLING: At the onset of your fishing day we recommend a trolling speed between 3 and 3.5 knots speed over ground. For some inboard vessels this means you may need to have a trolling valve installed. As a short solution you can use a sea anchor to slow your speed but this is not a good permanent solution and represents another potential obstacle anglers must avoid when landing a fish. You want to pay particular attention to your trolling speed and note at which speeds your having more success. On a slow day don't hesitate to adjust your speeds. Our basic principle is the colder the water temperature the slower we troll. In the winter months we've trolled as slow as 2 knots and caught fish.
FINDING FISH: Work the channel edges in a zig zag pattern from one side of the channel to the other until you locate the fish. Depths from 35 to 80 feet are most appropriate. We often drop our boat rods back a little farther when we are in the middle of the channel and adjust them appropriately as we reach the channel edge. Your really not looking for fish but rather bait as where there is bait there is bound to be fish. Pay attention to diving birds and large schools of menhaden you might see on your sounder. Mark the larger schools and don't be afraid to circle back over those marks repeatedly from multiple directions.
KNOW THE TIDES: If readers take one thing away from this article it should be the importance of knowing your tide information. Always have a tide chart on your boat and be sure to make note of the high, low and slack tide times for your area before departing the dock. Rockfish always bite best on an ebb or flood tide and are much less likely to bite on a slack tide. If you don't have a full day to put into your fishing effort make sure you plan your departure time to avoid fishing in slack tide conditions.
We guarantee much better fishing results. Check out this new revolutionary invention and get ahead of your fishing friends. Buy the Award Winning 'Esca Lures' online at http://www.escalure.co.uk/
How to Catch a Fish on Any Beach in the World
I'm sure you've seen them there, when you went to the beach: sunglasses, hat, and shorts wearing barefoot guys with long slender fishing rods staring off to the horizon. I also bet you wondered about what, if anything they ever caught and how they know where and when to fish.
I know I did until I tried my hand at surf fishing, and after a many hours of getting nothing but pruney toes, I finally figured out what surf fishing is all about, and since then, it has become an almost spiritual hobby, being alone on the beach, at first off hours of the day staring off into the sunset, truing to outsmart wily surf fish.
The truth is that when the surf fish are running, they're almost ridiculously east to catch so long as you understand the basics of surf fishing. Every year, between Christmas and New Years, I head down to the beach with a bucket and a fishing rod, and half fill the bucket with barred surfperch, a staple of Southern California and the coast of Baja California down Mexico way. Barred perch spawn in this time so there are plenty to catch in a couple hours to make up a nice meal for a crew of six or eight.
After mastering the barred perch, I've turned my attention to other denizens of the beach, including Corbina, the king of California and Mexico surf fishes, and Spotfin Croaker, one of the finest eating fishes of the surf. I have friends who even target Halibut form the surf and have seen them land 36 inch California Halibut fishing with a fly from the surf. In fact, the Halibut world record holder fly fisherman in two separate line classes fishes regularly form the surf not 5 miles from my home, and it is there that he hooked his record holders.
I have exported my surf fishing knowledge successfully deep down the Mexican Pacific Coast, the Gulf Coast of the US, the Northeast, the Mid Atlantic States, and even in the Far East. I fished along side and Old Japanese man sitting on a beach on the inland sea in Yamaguchi Prefecture on the southern tip of Honshu Island, as he explained to me in excruciating detail exactly how to catch, handle, and hook the appropriate bait.
H was speaking in Japanese of course, as I smiled, nodded and interjected an occasional "ah so." Actually I do speak some Japanese but it's limited to ordering food, finding the bathroom, and teasing young girls, so the vast majority of what he was saying was going totally over my head, but I would never have let on that I was only catching about every fourth word.
Ok, so much for my surf fishing exploits, I'm sure you're wondering, "How DO I catch fish in the surf anywhere in the world?" Well, I'm glad you asked. The first thing you have to understand is that the fish you are going to catch in the surf know what they're doing. This is their habitat. These aren't fish that normally inhabit deeper water but just happened to wander to the water's edge, these fish are there intentionally. It's what they do. They're good at it. The only reason they're here is that they're hunting for food. They've leaned how to carve out an existence by eating what is on the very beach you are standing on.
I have to laugh when I talk to surf fisherman that I happen across. I was talking to one particularly frustrated guy who was fishing in Malibu and was complaining that the guy who had this spot just before he came was catching lots of perch but he wasn't having such good luck. I asked him what he was using for bait and he showed me this package of fresh shrimp he'd just bought at the supermarket. Well, trust me, this wasn't fresh shrimp, it was defrosted, and it sure looked to me like the farmed shrimp from Thailand.
He's have been far better off taking those shrimp home, sautéing them in some butter, garlic and lemon, and pouring them over some pasta, than wasting his time fishing with them on a California Beach. This was mistake number one.
As I stood there watching and talking with this fisherman, I also noticed another serious gap in his surf fishing knowledge. The tide was receding. A receding tide is the worst time to fish in the surf. Take a moment to think like a fish that lives and hunts in the surf. The tide recedes exposing the beach to the other great predators of the surf line, the birds. The birds scatter about prodding and poking in the sand looking for small creatures to eat.
They unearth clams, sand crabs, worms, and ghost shrimp, whatever they can find to munch on, now that the newly uncovered seabed is exposed, they find a kill all sorts of critters and leave a mess. They dig small holes with their beaks, scratch up the sand with their feet, and do their best to leave no stone unturned.
As the tide starts to come in, each wave goes a little father up onto the beach, chasing the birds away and dragging the newly loosened sand hither and yon. While the sea birds found lots to eat, they certainly didn't get everything. Many creatures successfully evaded the birds, but their semi secure burrows, nooks and crannies where they hid are now in disarray and the incoming tide breaks them down even further. Many of these creatures now find themselves being washed away by the swirling whitewater of the surf.
The now free creatures are now fair game for the sea-bound predators, the surf fish. The surf fish follow the tide in feasting on the buffet the birds uncovered and the incoming surf is now washing free. This is how the surf fish make their living.
OK, you should have learned two very important principles so far. First, is that surf fish are looking for natural food as they hunt the surf. A piece of cut squid, a deep water denizen, is out of place in the surf line, and while a particularly dumb fish night snap at it because it looks interesting, or a fish frenzied by the spawn might eat it in his spawning stupor, the average, intelligent (since it's lived this long) surf predator will view it with some suspicion.
When you go to a surf beach, look for local, natural bait. Dig around in the sand at the surf line looking for small shellfish, clams, sand crabs or worms. The best time to do this is at low tide because you'll have the most amount of undersea surface exposed. You'll probably chase the birds away as you poke and prod in the sand. In Southern California, the most common beach critter is the sand crab.
These pea-sized shellfish are rather easy to catch with a special rake that allows you to sieve them through a screen that passes the sand but not the crabs. You can also catch them with a bucket and some water, just like you would be panning for gold.
You'll do so much better using local natural bait than anything else. I know a well off retired man who surf fishes and still hasn't figured out this fact. He sends off to Maine to buy special worms that cost $7.50 each and has them Fed Ex'ed in to surf fish with and can't understand why the kids with their home made sand crab rake out fish him. If you'd rather buy bait, find a local bait shop and ask them what works best and what they have for sale. They often do have local baits, usually live to sell to serious surf fishermen.
The second principle is to fish the incoming tide. The surf fish wait for the tide to come in. They know when it comes in and are lined up waiting for it to come in. Experience and a keen nose have taught them that the time to eat is the incoming tide. The absolute best time to surf fish is from halfway between two hours before high tide until the high tide.
This is the only time I fish - those two hours. It comes around twice a day so you should be able to work that into your schedule. While you're at the bait and tackle store ask them for a tide table. They're usually free, and if not there are tide calculators on the Internet that will allow you to calculate the tides on any day anywhere in the world.
Here's a surf fishing secret that I'll bet you never thought of, but given my stories and explanations above, I'll bet sounds logical to you. How far out do you think you have to cast to catch fish in the surf? Well, I'm sure you've seen guys with 14 foot long rods that they wade into the water waist deep and hurl several hundred yards away from the beach - and I'm sure that there are some kinds of fish that are caught that way, like striped bass along the East Coast.
If you're targeting surf fish, not deep water species, though, the correct answer is, not very far. I catch the vast majority of my surf fish in ankle deep water - certainly shallower than knee deep. Sometimes along the Pacific coast beaches, I see fish feeding literally with their backs out of the water!
I like to cast just in front of the braking wave - into the white water. This is the home of the surf fish. They're in close. I retrieve slowly dragging my bait up the beach slope, and if I get a hit, more often than not, it's in very shallow water, like between ankle and knee deep. Surprised? I was when I first started leaning about surf fish. It's now my "market' where I stop by to pick up some fresh fish any time I'm in the mood.
So there's my secrets: 1) fish with local bait you can collect from the beach yourself at low tide, 2) fish the last two hours of the incoming tide, and 3) fish shallow.
We guarantee much better fishing results. Check out this new revolutionary invention and get ahead of your fishing friends. Buy the Award Winning 'Esca Lures' online at http://www.escalure.co.uk/
About the Author
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