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Ignition Rev Control
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NEW 1993-2003 Honda XR100R XR100 CDI Ignition Module Control Rev/Box US $42.00
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MSD 6425 Digital 6AL 6 AL Ignition Control Box High Output With Rev Control US $226.85
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Dynojet Research Power Commander V 15-002 List Price: $369.95 Sale Price: $319.95 |
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Full fuel and ignition timing control for each cylinder with a new smaller enclosureThe REV Xtend feature increases stock rev limiterSwitch betwen two maps on the fly and maps can be adjusted on a per gear basis (one map per cylinder, per gear if required)Adjustment of fuel and timing based on engine temp is provided by the Cold Start featureWill power up with USB cable only for programmingNOTE: Not legal for sale or use on pollution controlled vehicles.This Item Fits the Following Applications:2009 Harley Davidson XL1200N Sportster 1200 Nightster2009 Harley Davidson XL1200L Sportster 1200 Low2009 Harley Davidson XL1200C Sportster 1200 Custom |
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Draw Tite 5520 Activator III Brake Controller for 1 to 4 Axle Trailers Sale Price: $54.00 |
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ACTVTOR III BRAKE CONTRL |
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MSD Ignition 6421 Multiple Spark Discharge Ignition Controller with Built-in Rev Limiter List Price: $359.99 Sale Price: $251.95 |
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6AL-2 Series Multiple Spark Ignition Controller w/2-Step Limiter 4/6/8 Cylinder |
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MSD 5520 Street Fire Ignition with Rev Control List Price: $149.90 Sale Price: $125.99 |
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Street Fire Ignition Controller w/Rev Control 6/6/8 Cylinder |
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Most modern cars have an orange oil pressure warning light to let you know if you are losing oil. But by the time it comes on it is probably too late and the damage is done. Many classic cars were fitted with an oil pressure gauge so that the driver could see what was actually happening. Some classics had both a gauge and an oil pressure just to make sure. Our Austin Healey had just the gauge but after an incident in 2009 I decided to fit a warning light as well.
Modern drivers aren't really in control of their cars and know very little about what is happening under the bonnet. You have a temperature gauge so you can see if the car is over heating, other than that everything else is computer controlled with warning lights to let you know if the engine management or ABS fails, or if the oil level is low, or worse if you lose pressure. Most drivers are used to being ensconced in a quiet, comfortable car, listening to loud music and completely ignoring what the car is doing, unless it tells them there is a problem.
This was not the case on classic cars which had gauges to show whether the main systems were all working. A temperature gauge and fuel gauge of course but many of them were also fitted with rev counters and ammeters or battery gauges so the driver would know if the dynamo or alternator is charging properly. Many of them have an oil pressure gauge so the driver can monitor the oil pressure. The key word here is monitor.
Most engines run with oil pressures of anything from 40 to 100 pounds per square inch (psi). When an engine starts up the oil is cold and thick and the pressure will be high - maybe near the 100 psi mark. As the engine warms up, the oil thins out a bit and should settle down to around 40 to 60 psi depending on the engine. Oil pressure warning lamps tend to be set at about 5 to 10 psi, so if the light comes on you have virtually no oil pressure left and a major problem.
Most of our fleet of classic hire cars have pressure gauges fitted as standard and we do explain their function to the drivers when we take them out for a test drive at the start of their day's hire. On the rare occasions I have forgotten to mention this we have occasionally received a phone call later in the day when they have spotted that the pressure was lower than when they set off.
We had a particular situation develop on our Austin Healey 3000 during 2009. This is fitted with an oil pressure gauge but no warning light. To allow customers of all shapes and sizes to hire the car, we replaced the original 16" diameter steering wheel with a 14" diameter wheel. This gives the driver more room to enter and exit the cars and it doesn't rub on the tops of their legs.
However with the original steering wheel fitted, all the gauges including oil pressure were visible inside the rim of the steering wheel. The 14" wheel meant that the oil pressure gauge was now obscured by the rim and the driver's left hand. When moving, the drivers would have to make a deliberate movement to see the gauge and this assumes they remember they ought to check it, when modern cars don't have such devices.
Our Healey developed a slight oil leak from one of the engine oil seals, as classic cars tend to. Not normally a problem as I check the levels every time the car goes out on hire. Oil leaks by their nature tend to get worse rather than fix themselves so one day on checking the car over after it had been out on hire for a couple of days, I noticed that there was virtually no oil in it and when cornering the oil pressure would drop only to recover on the straight. This happens because the oil surges away from the pump pickup in the sump as the car turns one way, and flows back when it straightens up or turns the other way.
Many years ago in my youth I had a Triumph Spitfire with an oil leak. Being a lazy youngster I waited until the oil pressure gauge moved when going round a roundabout and treated this as a signal to top up the oil level. While that may have been acceptable on a Spitfire worth a few hundred pounds it is not a sensible approach on an Austin Healey worth over £20,000, particularly when the customer probably won't notice the gauge anyway.
I had the oil seal replaced by my usual garage but asked them to add an oil pressure warning light as well. This is an easy enough procedure. The oil pressure gauge sensor screws into the engine block. This is removed and replace with a threaded brass T piece. The oil pressure gauge sensor is then fitted into one side of the T and the pressure sensor for the warning lamp fitted to the other side of the T. The convention is that oil warning lamps are orange so an orange light was fitted in the centre of the dashboard, next to the indicator warning light and wired to the sensor.
Now when the ignition is turned on, the oil lamp illuminates and goes off as soon as the engine is running. The oil pressure gauge still works as normal but even if it can't be seen behind the driver's left hand, he will know if there is a problem when he gets an orange light right between the eyes.
Tony Merrygold of The Open Road Open Road Classic Car Hire is an expert in classic car hire having been in business in the UK since 1997 running The Open Road. The Open Road currently has a fleet of nine classic cars including the Austin Healey 3000 mentioned. Tony runs courses telling people how to start up a car hire company, having trained over 100 people over the past three years.
Tony also runs a sales and marketing consultancy concentrating on working with Small and Medium Enterprises (SME) in Warwickshire and the West Midlands, helping them grow their business and improve their profitability.
Rc Nitro Gas Cars for Beginner Rc Hobbyist
Imagine driving an RC Gas vehicle 50+ MPH down the street, jumping over the curb or an obstacle course you created (because you have a lot of time on your hand), or even jump over your roof top (YouTube Bazooka Buggy and you’ll see what I mean). You’ll be the envy of many people.
Yes, we all want to relive or live our youth, and RC Nitro Fuel Gas Car can help us feel like a kid again. Nitro Cars is a safe and exciting hobby to get into, and with the influx of newcomers into the industry, RC’s are becoming extremely affordable in ready-to-run kits.
If you are an expert and have been in the hobby for many years, you may be investing $500+ in a U.S-branded gas car like Traxxas, HPI, etc. and paying a good penny for parts (you will need parts unless you drive 5 MPH).
For the rest of us who don’t have that deep of a pocket, but still want a car to have lots of fun with on the weekend, a beginner RC Car will suffice. Many Chinese-branded manufacturers such as HI-Speed, Himoto, Smartech, ACME-Tech are all great cars for beginners. For the most part, they can be purchased for under $200, and parts are readily available. If you have a good supplier, you are sure to enjoy your car and have spare parts available in case you “accidentally” crash.
How do you choose what is best?
It depends on the type of terrain that the car will be driven on.
On-Road Gas Car – These are perfect if you are looking to operate mostly in smooth surfaces; use the car around the block/parking lot, a park (smooth surface), or run laps on race tracks. Good Gas Cars include the Himoto Rapida Pro.
Off-Road Gas Buggy- Great if you are looking to perform jumps, and operate in rocky terrains, grassy area, or even smooth surfaces. The off-road gas buggies are versatile and can operate in all types of terrains. ACME-Tech provides RTR buggy kits that are fast and great for beginners.
Off-Road Truck- Similar to the off road buggy. More durable than the buggy, but generally a bit slower. Usually a bit more resistant to crashes, and easy to operate. 1/8 and 1/10 scales are the common scale, although 1/16 scales are becoming quite popular. The main difference is the ground clearance and size. RC Nitro Trucks are extremely popular and tend to be best selling.
What is needed?
All RTR kits come with almost everything you would need to get your vehicle running. All you would need is a glow plug Igniter and 20% glow fuel. These are usually 20% mixture of nitro methane and can be purchased at your local hobby shop. Your nearest HobbytownUSA is also a great resource.
It is important to adjust the carburetor settings once you receive your car. You would need to adjust the High/Low/Idle needle settings to prime your car. Please refer to your instruction manual or you can email us for settings and troubleshoot guides. In your initial stage of starting the car, make sure fuel is able to travel to the engine, and the glow plug is fully charged.
Once started with the loud rev of the engine, you’re good to go and ready to have lots of fun!
About the Author
RCToyHouse.com is a reliable supplier of Nitro powered RC cars and RC gas trucks. Visit online store for Ready-to-Run RC kits - affordable and durable Nitro RC cars
i need your favor. I am getting p400 and p0402 on my 98 maxima.?
I diagnosed the egr valve and it works fine. when i rev up the engine the valve goes up and then comes back down. the mechanic diagnosed the bpt valve and told me its fine too so he told me replace the egr control solenoid. when i checked for the resistance on the coil it was 38 ohms at ignition on car off which was normal. when i checked the voltage it showed up 4.6 volts when car off ignition on. so is that the problem? My car stalls when idle and it hesiates quite often. it jerks sometimes too and it sounds like the engine is choking but then it works fine after a second or two. Egr tube is not clogged as when my mechanic took the egr valve off he checked. any help is greatly appreciated.
fuel pump fuel filter??
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