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Hose Ends Fittings
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 Black 8 An Straight Swivel Hose End Fitting Braid  US $4.90
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 Black 4 An Straight Swivel Hose End Fitting Braid 4An -4 An US $5.62
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Drip irrigation is the most effective way to water a flower or vegetable garden. The slow trickle of water is delivered directly to the base of the plant preventing run-off or evaporation caused by most other watering methods. Installing a drip irrigation system may seem like a daunting task, but once started many will find it both fun and easy.
The first place to start a drip irrigation system is at the water source. Place a brass hose Y fitting on the spigot so that the drip system does not have to be removed to access the water for other uses. An automated system makes drip that much easier. To automate the system install a battery timer on one end of the Y fitting. Next install a filter so that the system does not clog up later on down the road. Most municipal water sources have high water pressure, which is why a pressure regulator should be installed after the filter. Next install a fitting that has a female hose thread on one side and connects to 1/2" tubing on the other. To complete the faucet assembly insert the tubing into the end of the fitting.
The 1/2" mainline tubing can now be run from the faucet to the garden with stakes holding it in place every 4 feet or so. For more complex areas, various fittings may be needed to navigate the mainline tubing throughout the landscape. A hole should be punched in the tubing near the location of a plant. Now there are many options for the newly punched hole. An emitter can be inserted directly into the tubing if the plant is very close to the hole. If the plant is further away, a 1/4" transfer barb should be inserted into the whole. Now place blank 1/4" tubing on the other end of the transfer barb. The blank tubing is rolled out to the base of the plant and then an emitter is inserted into the end of the tubing. Another option is to use soaker dripline on the other end of the transfer barb. Soaker dripline is 1/4" tubing that has evenly spaced emitters built in the tubing. It is great for raised beds or plants in rows. The soaker dripline is rolled out to the desired length and then closed off with a goof plug. The process of punching holes and inserting emitters or tubing into them should be repeated until all of the plants in the garden are able to get water from the drip irrigation system.
The last step for installing drip irrigation is to close the mainline tubing. The cheapest way is to use a figure eight fitting that will kink the end of the tubing to prevent any leaking. The cleanest looking method is a fitting that has tubing inserted into one end and then a closed cap on the other end.
Plumbing Tapes and Sealants - Sealing Hoses and Pipes
When embarking on a plumbing project, be sure that you seal the pipes and hoses well. It might be harder than you think. Do read up on how it can be done. However, it is also very important to make sure you have the appropriate tools.
Never use a sealant that is not designed for what you are doing. Sink flanges on a garbage disposal unit should be secured with plumber's putty. There are types of special wax or grease sealants that are suitable to be used on the base of the toilet. Shower pipes and spouts should be sealed with caulking, and the list goes on from there.
Many people regret substituting the wrong sealant for a particular job. Do not substitute PVC Pipe glue when instructions ask for plumber's putty. If you use these things rather than Teflon plumber's tape on hoses, you will never be able to remove it should you ever decide to replace the hoses.
Be sparing but not stingy. It's also important to use the right amounts. For example, a ¼ inch bead of plumber's putty is sufficient to seal around a sink. Too much of it will certainly mean that more cleaning up is needed. If insufficient amounts are used, water will leak under the sink.
Wipe away the extra without removing too much. Too much sealant will tend to crack and tear after it hardens. Wipe away the extra using a damp cloth, sponge or even your finger and it should be ok. Also, make sure you clean up any smears before they dry.
Do not stingy about the use of Teflon plumber's tape. It is uncommon to use too much, but in some cases, it can create gaps for water to seep through. The reason it's so hard to overdo it is because it is very flexible and compressible. You want to ensure that not too much is being used as it can make it near to impossible to fit the new pipes or hose back on.
Wind it in the proper direction. If you are handling hoses, the direction is not a problem, however if you are threading pipes, direction will matter. If it's not done correctly, the tape will twist off. The tail end of the tape should be going in the same direction as the way your are threading into it. It will create a seal that us tight as the tape will extend in the similar direction as the pipe while the pipe is being threaded. If the tape is facing the opposite direction, the seal will not be tight.
Avoid torn ends. Do not tear or bite the tape off using your teeth. It can seem like a good idea if you are working in a cramped space that is hard for you to move around. This can lead to stretching and tearing of the ends. If the tape has been extended too much before being threaded on the pipe it will not seal properly.
If the tape is cut cleanly, it will set in the threads better and not leave any ridges that could cause leaks. This should be done on the front and back of the tape. If you have ridges, you will create small openings for water to escape from.
If you utilize the appropriate sealant for the job and follow instructions faithfully, your project should be free from leaks.
About the Author
Moses Wright loves to work on DIY Home improvement projects during his free time. He sets up a site to provide more resources on Home Plumbing Repair and Kitchen Sink Plumbing at his web site.
Antifreeze leak at the belt tensioner?
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix, 3800 engine.
I changed the belt tensioner. It's a metal housing about the size of a loaf of bread. There are 2 rubber hoses connected to the tensioner, and 2 plastic plugs that fit into the engine block. The hose ends and plugs all have an O-ring. When I changed the tensioner, it looked like there was some sort of silicon glue on the hose ends and plugs.
The car has an antifreeze leak. I suspect it's coming from one or more of the 4 coolant connections to the belt tensioner.
What do I use to make a leak proof connection at the 4 fittings? RTV sealant? How much?
NOT SURE WHAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT HAVE NEVER SEEN ANY HOSES ON A BELT TENSIONER
SAE Aluminum Tube Fittings are 65% lighter than stainless steel.
Manufactured to SAE J514 dimensions for 37° flare fittings and SAE J1453 dimensions for O-ring face seal fittings, SAE Aluminum Tube Fittings are suited for applications where weight reduction and/or corrosion resistance are essential. Connector port ends have no exposed threads between locknut and backup washer, eliminating washer damage and preventing leaks. Temperature ratings are from -40° ...
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