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Header Pipe Wrap
Checkout Ebay Auctions For The Cheapest Prices
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 Longacre Header Wrap 7 feet for Racing go kart pipe  US $9.99
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 Racing Thermo EXHAUST / Header INSULATING WRAP Pipes 2"X100' 1000°C US $48.99
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VHT SP102 FlameProof Coating Flat Black Paint Can - 11 oz. List Price: $11.95 Sale Price: $6.65  |
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PJ1/VHT VHT FLAMEPRF COATING BLK SP-102 |
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Thermo-Tec 12001: Exhaust Wrap Coating, High-Temperature, Black, 11 oz. Spray Can, Each Sale Price: $9.95 |
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To finish off a clean and well-protected Exhaust Insulating Wrap application it is recommended to use the Hi-Heat Coating. The coating will protect the wrap from abrasion and harmful liquid spills. Extra resins and binders toughen the surface, extend the life of wrap by protecting it from friction, and seal the pores to minimize the penetration of harmful liquids. The coating also works excellent as a paint directly on metal surfaces. |
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Tomioka Racing Subaru Twin-Scroll Exhaust Manifold - Equal Length List Price: $699.00 Sale Price: $678.00 |
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Tomioka Racing equal exhaust manifold is made of all stainless steel and built based on its consistently excellent performance results, and high quality finish. With smooth flowing joining faces thus removing any kind of gas flow restriction and provides excellent spool up, smoother delivery of power, & increase in torque. The manifold is supplied with all manifold and turbo gaskets, nuts, bolts, studs, and a 50' x 2" roll of exhaust wrap - everything you need. With the Tomioka Racing equal header, you will find low end torque easily accessible at your 'toetip'! 3-bolt up-pipe is included with the exhaust manifold. 3-bolt up-pipe provides more secure seal for the exhaust gas flow. Fits Subaru Impreza with twin-scroll set-up. |
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Tomioka Racing Subaru Exhaust Manifold - Equal Length List Price: $690.00 Sale Price: $698.00 |
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Tomioka Racing equal exhaust manifold is made of all stainless steel and built based on its consistently excellent performance results, and high quality finish with 4-2-1 connectors. With smooth flowing joining faces thus removing any kind of gas flow restriction and provides excellent spool up, smoother delivery of power, & increase in torque. The manifold is supplied with all manifold and turbo gaskets, nuts, bolts, studs, and a 50' x 2" roll of exhaust wrap - everything you need. With the Tomioka Racing equal header, you will find low end torque easily accessible at your 'toetip'! 3-bolt up-pipe is included with the exhaust manifold. 3-bolt up-pipe provides more secure seal for the exhaust gas flow. Fits 2002 - 2011 Subaru Impreza STi. Modification may be need to fit on Subaru WRX models. |
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DEI 010330 Motorcycle Exhaust Pipe Wrap Kit List Price: $68.52 Sale Price: $40.58 |
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Motorcycle Exhaust Wrap Kit; |
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DEI 010127 2" Titanium Exhaust/ Header Wrap - 50' List Price: $62.19 Sale Price: $30.00 |
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Design Engineering, Inc 010127 2 X 50 Exhaust Wrap Titanium |
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DEI 010108 Black 2" Exhaust Wrap - 50' List Price: $57.40 Sale Price: $23.85 |
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Design Engineering, Inc 010108 2x50 Exhaust Wrap Black |
Here are some more information for Header Pipe Wrap:
Especially in high performance engines, under-hood temperatures can have an impact on engine performance and component life. In today's modern times, there are a variety of products available to protect engine components that will help to isolate and control the damaging effects of heat. Chief among these thermal control products is exhaust wrap.
Exhaust wrap is designed to wrap around engine exhaust manifolds or headers to reduce the heat transfer from headers. This alone can reduce under-hood temperatures by nearly 50% or better.
Before wrapping any exhaust headers, the engine should be completely cool and properly secured from rolling or lowering if up on a lift or jack stands. The installer should wear long sleeves and wear safety glasses.
While there are a variety of manufacturers distributing exhaust wrap, most exhaust wrap products on the market are installed the same way. Starting at the closest exhaust pipe to the engine, the product is wrapped around each exhaust pipe and overlapping no more then one-quarter of an inch. If the installer has difficult bends in the exhaust header to conform to, wetting the exhaust wrap generally will make the job much easier. In some cases the exhaust pipes will be too difficult to wrap because of their proximity to each other. If this occurs, wrap two pipes together using the same one-quarter inch overlap. This procedure should be followed and the wrap terminated at the exhaust tip. Ends should be secured with high temperature rated stainless steel ties.
A high temperature silicone spray coating is used on many of the exhaust wrap products on the market. This protective coating will protect wraps from dirt, grime and road debris. If the exhaust wrap product an installer uses requires silicone spray, it should be used. This will extend the life of the wrap and help to maintain its appearance.
After a vehicle's exhaust has been properly wrapped, and any silicone spray properly cured, the vehicle may be driven. The newly wrapped exhaust header wrap will smoke on first use. This smoke is completely normal. An engine running at operating temperature for an hour or two is all that it takes for the smoke to dissipate, however some residual odors may be noticed by the occupants of the car for some time afterwards. It's best to break in the header wrap with the windows of the vehicle closed and any vents closed.
Weber Power Products offers a variety of exhaust wrap products designed to reduce under-hood temperatures and extend engine component life.
The Sport Compact Craze
I remember back in the early 1990's, it seemed that every lad under the age of 21 lusted after owning a sporty little Honda or Acura. Having the barebones "stock" car wasn't really enough, as the novelty of owning the basic car wears off pretty quick. We'd then pinch and save, to spend our hard earned cash on aftermarket goodies. Many of us were going through school, and couldn't afford much, but to modify them with supposed go fast parts, and "aesthetic" items were all the rage.
That was a long time ago to me now, and while modifying cars will never go away, as long as we are still using the internal combustion engine and have 4 wheels. Many of us still care about appearance and performance of our rides, but a lot of the "ricer" look has died down. While I won't go into what "ricer' technically means, I will say it carried a bad connotation, and few of us realized it then.
Modifying and "dressing up" sport compact Honda's and Acura, wasn't limited to only these Japanese imports, however. While they are held responsible for birthing this "ricer" stigma, it wasn't long before we saw Cavaliers, Sunfires, Sunbirds and Neon's rolling around with racing stickers and big wings on the trunk lids. Volkswagons were always a part of the sport compact craze and the GTI was perhaps the original "hot hatch," but the 'Dubbers liked to keep their distance and maintain a more dignified and refined look.
Typically a "riced" out Honda would have a body kit, which could include obnoxious, busy looking bumper covers, or replacement bumpers, rocker panel covers, replacement hoods and fender with aggressive flairs, and of course the quintessential oversized high wing on the trunk, to complete the shopping cart look. Lowering the vehicle was essential, to compliment the plus sized performance rims, which would be wrapped in low profile wide sticky tires.
Racing stickers were a staple add on, and we later joked that each sticker was worth X amount of extra horsepower. Typically the stickers (steal me stickers) were to proudly advertise which manufacturers parts were installed on the vehicle. Sometime, however, the stickers were used to make up for the lack of modifications on the car, I'm afraid I was guilty of that at the time. Lets not forget the sound systems, how often have we heard a driver's music half a minute before we even see his car go by?
Last, but not least, the staple "modification" on all riced out sport compacts was the fart can muffler. "Loud but proud" should have been the motto, as they did little to add performance to those tiny engines, all by themselves. All they really added was noise pollution as they sounded like a bucket full of angry hornets. To this day, they are still used, though I believe regulations are finally cracking down on these racket makers. On top of mufflers, we had intakes, bored out throttle bodies, ignitions, port work, headers, the list goes on. If you actually added up the horsepower increase claims from each manufacture, you could nearly double your factory rating. These claims we mostly puffed up advertising and lies.
It wasn't all bad though, and even now, tastefully modified sport compacts can still be found. A slight suspension drop with lowering springs or coilovers, slightly larger diameter wheels than stock, with matching performance tires. No body kits or aftermarket wings, but some JDM market goodies for Japanese imports always seem to look good. A larger piping exhaust, to complement any engine breathing modifications is still needed and welcome, providing the muffler is baffled, or at least chambered. Add to that, a tasteful classy colored paint job, or leave it original, and what we have is a slightly dressed up vehicle that does the brand justice.
Its not always about show though, legitimate go fast goodies were all the rage and will still be for a long time, for anyone who can afford it. Turbochargers, nitrous oxide, large lobed camshafts and port work, entire engine performance rebuilds and engine swaps.
Myself, being into Honda civics and Acura Integras, I was blessed to have the opportunity to satisfy my needs the plethora of direct "bolt in" engine swaps being available. Perfectly good engines were being shipped over from Japan by the boatload (and still are), and I performed more than a few of these swaps. Fortunately I didn't have the money to blow on ugly body kits and chrome rims and turbocharger back in the '90s. When I finally had the money, I had a more mature outlook and I developed a sense of wanting to keep things refined and simple. My favourite swap, which I swill own today, was a JDM Integra GSR engine swapped in to a '94 civic cx hatch. Bolt in low 14 second quarter mile swap, right there. While it was impressive as a mustang beater way back, it's nothing to brag about now as factory Neon turbo cars and Cobalt turbos can match that, and they're everywhere.
Fortunately the ricer phase seems to be dying off. Maybe partly because young people don't have as much money to throw around after paying their smart phone bill, but I think it's more than that. Cheap simple cars are gone, forever it seems. You can't just simply pop a new chip into your car anymore, modifying has become harder and more expensive. Most of the sport compact cars from the '90s era seem to be on their last leg and are rusting out. That's the image I see when I "hear" a rice rocket car from a bygone era go by. Mismatched body kit colors, fart can, cheap wheels, rusty quarter panels, faded paint. This is not to say that nobody will try to rice out a new model car, but I'm just not seeing it anymore. Where are all the stickers and the blacked out tail lights? Are we maturing? I hope so.
About the Author
how can i make my exhaust a little quieter or just less raspy?
i have a subaru 2.5rs with headers a full exhaust and as of the other day i have a test pipe instead of a resinator and a cat. but the sound is overwelmingly loud. any ideas to quiet this a little. like will heat wrap silence some of the raspiness?
Vipassana hit the nail on the head: I couldn't have worded it better myself. You made the noise bad by removing the cat, getting a huge exhaust, and removing the resonator. Take off everything and build something like this:
Keep the headers.
From there, put on a high-flow streetlegal cat (honeycomb style).
Get yourself a namebrand exhaust, size 2.25 to 2.5 inches. This will cover the sound silencing. They have done the proper research and the correct type of bending to produce a nice sounding and functional exhaust. The point of going larger is not to just go larger, but to get performance. Your car is probably annoying to drive around on the street, since you killed your lowend and midrange torque, and traded it for minimal horsepower (plus the crappy sound).
Or, instead of spending money for minimal upgrades, just sell your car and get a WRX. 40% more power out of the box, better suspension, better options like seats and steering wheel and aerodynamic package, etc. Plus, it actually has tuning potential, compared to your RS. Sorry man, but you don't get the bottom of the line model car for performance, so if I were you I'd just settle for what it is.
Bolton Wanderers v Liverpool: as it happened
Maxi Rodriguez's late goal is enough to lift give Liverpool a 1-0 win and lift them out of relegation zone.
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