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Head Flywheel Used
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Each racing series and chapter has it's own rules. They can change from series to series. Be sure to confirm with the association's sanctioning body or local chapter for verification of exact rules. Here we will provide a general overview and give you a few ideas for modifying your racing mowers.
Driver Eligibility - All drivers must be at least 18 years old or older to drive in a lawn mower race or to participate in lawn mower drag racing. In some cases and with their parents' consent, children as young as 16 years old may be granted permission to race.
Getting a License - For each series, you will be required to obtain a license by registering with the series. You won't even be allowed on the track until you have a license. Usually, there is a slight fee associated with registering.
Driver's Meeting - Every driver is required to attend an obligatory driver's meeting before participating in a lawnmower race. If you do not attend the meeting, your starting place for the race will be at the back of the field. For the most part, the officials conducting the meeting will go over the procedures for the race and restate the purpose of the flags.
Safety - There are many safety requirements for lawn mower races, but here are a few. Participants are mandated to wear protective gear much like that of a motocross rider. You must have on a full-face helmet, including head and neck restraints. You must dismount the racing mowers when refueling. Each racing lawn mower must be outfitted with a tethered kill switch.
Modifications - You can probably imagine that racing mowers' parts are not always easy to find. You may need to put together parts or adjust stock parts yourself. Below are a few modifications, some of which may be permitted by the sanctioning body:
-The frame can be made more rigid by fusing in additional supports.
-A safety scatter shield must be mounted adjacent to the flywheel. The minimum thickness must be 16 GA.
-Steering can be toughened.
-Mowing blades must be detached.
-Tires and wheels may only be stock.
-Aluminum axles are not allowed.
-Bodies must appear to be stock.
-Steering wheel may not have handlebar grips added to it.
Race Prep - In addition to modifications you want to make for the race, here are a few that will be required in preparation for the race.
-Headlights must be eliminated or taped up.
-Your number must be clearly displayed on all four sides of the racing mowers and must be at least 3 inches tall.
-Chains and sprockets must be protected.
Points System - Most races work from a point system to determine a winner over the course of the series. For example, the USLMRA point system works like this:
1st place: 300 points
2nd place: 250 points
3rd place: 200 points
4th place: 150 points
5th place: 100 points
6th place: 0 points
Flags - Several flags are used in racing mowers. Many of them are used in other types of racing as well. It is important that you understand what they mean.
Green: "Green Means Mow" (or go)
Yellow: Caution on the track; proceed slowly.
Yellow & White: One lap before the green.
Blue Flag with Yellow Stripe: Move over and let the leaders pass.
Red: Danger on the racetrack; stop immediately.
Black: Pull into the pits for a mechanical problem or driving violation.
White: One lap to go.
Checkered: This is the flag everyone wants to see. If you see this flag, race is over, and you have won this racing lawnmower event!
Technical Inspection:
If you have finished in the top five, you will likely be invited to the tech area for a final technical inspection. Even before you race, you may be required to show your racing mowers to the technical inspection team. The inspectors will look for dimensional inconsistencies, prohibited parts, and assure you have the correct safety features on your lawn mower.
JA Fisher is a lawnmower racing enthusiast. Get more information on this topic at http://lawnmowerracingsecrets.com. Check out his lawnmower racing eBook at http://lawnmowerracingsecrets.com.
Which Racing Lawn Mower Engines are the Racers’ Favorites?
There are many factors that will determine your success in mower racing. One of them is having good racing lawn mower engines. If you’ve heard stories about last lap passes and inside passes during tight turns, this is mostly because the driver has the skills and has a good engine.
People who are new to lawn mower racing often ask what the best engine is. There really is no direct answer to that question as different racers prefer different engines, but the most widely used are Briggs and Stratton and Tecumseh racing lawn mower engines. This is because of their experience in building engines and the availability of high quality spare parts.
Spare parts are important especially if you plan on becoming active in lawn mower racing. There will be times when you will need to replace parts prior and after every race. Furthermore, you will need to match the performance parts that you use to the track that you will be competing on.
Popular racing mower engines include:
• 19 CID 8HP Briggs and Stratton
• 28 CID 12HP Briggs and Stratton
• 31 CID 12HP Briggs and Stratton
• 40 CID 20HP Briggs and Stratton
• 44CID 20HP Briggs and Stratton
• 14.5HP 28CID OHV Single Briggs and Stratton
• 17HP 31CID OHV Single Briggs and Stratton
The engines listed above are the most popular and some of them are custom built for lawn mower racing. But don’t limit yourself to this list, as I’ve mentioned Tecumseh engines work well too. Even Hondas are good. It’s just a matter of jiving with your engine and making it fit for your lawn mower racing.
There are racers who can make old and tattered engines look and feel like new again.
Racing lawn mower engines are no different than your car’s engine. So the modification process is almost the same, you replace parts, port and polish the intake, bore the block, etc… Just make sure that the modifications are acceptable in the division that you are competing in.
Different divisions have different rules when it comes to modifications. Sanctioning bodies are strict with this so you have to make sure that you are abiding by the rules.
Consider improving these areas so you can get the most out of your racing lawn mower engines. Again, be aware of your limitations before tinkering with your engine.
• Flywheels
• Pistons
• Crankshafts
• Carburetors
• Valves
• Heads
It is no different than what you would do to get your car ready for the race track. Proper modification, tuning, and testing will win you that coveted checkered flag. Not to mention a year worth of bragging rights as the top dog in lawn mower racing.
The best time to work on your racing lawn mower engines is during the winter. This way you will have ample time to perform all the modifications on your engine and make it ready for the next lawn mower racing season.
About the Author
Lawnmower racing enthusiast JA Fisher invites you to check out his lawnmower racing eCourse at http://lawnmowerracingsecrets.com. Make sure to SEE what this exciting sport is all about in the race videos at http://lawnmowerracingsecrets.com/videos-lawnmower-racing.
What is a good psi boost for this engine?
87 Acura Integra D16A1. Last trip to a dyno came back 110HP @3000RPM stock n/a as it is after 21 years of use. Only 89k miles on it now.
On the way as we speak:
-New pistons/rings for a ZC; slightly lower compression than stock
-New I-bar style rods
-New stock valves
-New stock valve springs
-New head gasket
-Lighter flywheel
-New fuel injectors
-New fuel pump
-Pacesetter exhaust header (yea, I'm cheap, but they're easy to replace)
-New 2.25" Catalytic (even though my state doesn't require a cat)
-2.25" exhaust cat to tip
-Magnaflow muffler
-New water pump
-New timing belt
-New thermostat
When I pull the motor:
-Get stock crankshaft checked for straightness. good to 220hp, might replace if needed
-P/P stock A1 header
-header/deck resurface
How much PSI should I use with the least mechanical/heat wear with a supercharger with this setup? I was told 3PSI was good, but I'm wondering if I can go higher. I don't want to turbo or nos.
The answer really has more to do with the compression ratio. Have the heads CC'd and then calculate your compression ratio. If you have 7.5:1 you can run about 6 punds of boost, if you are around 8.5:1 then you need to lower it to about 4 PSI..
also if you plan to run a turbo you need to select a cam that is turbo rated, and the head gasket should be slected with the turbo in mind as well. Im not sure what the stock comp ratio is on your engine but if its higher than 8.5:1 I would consider getting dished pistons to lower it.
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