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Gauge Race Car
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 52mm LED DIGITAL VACUUM GAUGE VOLT AUTO CAR BAR/PSI  US $59.99
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 Race Tech 60mm Smoke Stepper POINTER WATER TEMP TEMPERATURE GAUGE FOR CAR MOTOR US $25.99
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The 5.0 Mustang is one of the most popular cars found today at the drag strip. Not without good reason either. The Mustangs good power to weight ratio from the factory. Along with the extremely large availability of both factory and aftermarket parts. Make her a great platform from which to build a fine racing machine. However the Fox-body Mustang is not without its shortcomings (nobody's perfect). The non parallel four link rear suspension, nose heavy weight bias, and several other factors. Leave a lot of room for improvement, thankfully most of them are easily remedied.
Lets begin with the tires, the tires are the main link between the car and the road. Making them the single most important part of getting your Mustang to launch correctly. The factory supplied rubber, Goodyear Eagles on most models. Are a fine tire, but not exactly optimized for drag racing. The short sidewall height, combined with the relatively hard rubber compound. Mean lots of wheelspin and black marks on the ground. So a change to a dedicated drag racing type tire is in order. For street driven cars drag radials are hard to beat, on a strictly track only ride racing slicks are what you want. Mustangs can use either a 26" or 28" tall tire with only slight massaging of the inner fenderwells. Use a 15x8" wheel with a 5.5" backspacing and you should be able to fit a 275/60x15 radial or a 28x12.5-15LT ET Street or a 28x10.5-15 slick. The difference is in the way the tires are measured, slicks are listed by tread width, the rest are given by section width(overall width).
While a 28" tall tire, like the above sizes is best for a high horsepower, supercharged, turbocharged or nitrous car. If your ride is mostly stock in the horsepower department, a 28" tire would definitely be overkill. One thing to consider is the weight of your tire, taller = heavier. Once your car launches that same tire now becomes a liability, because of rotational inertia. In other words if your car hooks fine with a 26" tire and does'nt spin excessively. It will actually be quicker with the smaller and lighter tire. If your budget constraints limit you to one set of tires the shorter tires are probably the way you want to go. A 28" tire will require a rearend gear change as well. Which is an extra expense that I'll discuss in a later chapter.
On the lighter is better topic, most factory wheels are ungodly heavy. Changing to a lightweight aluminum wheel like a Centerline or Weld Draglights, or if you're in the money a set of Bogarts. Will definitely shave some time off your 60' ET, as much as 1/10 second or more on some cars. Most wheels will require longer wheel studs to properly secure them to your ride. Safety rules say the stud must extend at least the diameter of the stud (1/2") into the hex portion of the lugnut. Radials are usually run tubeless, slicks and ET street type tires are generally run with tubes inside. Running tubes requires you to run screws through the bead. To prevent tire creep from ripping out your valvestems. 10-12 self tapping S.S. screws equally spaced around the bead on BOTH sides of the wheel should do the trick. Make sure the screws you use are long enough to go through the rim but not so long as to puncture the tire. Something around a #12 hex head x 1/2"-3/4" length should be good, (make sure you check though). Be sure to have your new wheels and tires professionally balanced before hitting the race track. Self sticking wheel weights work better than the hammer on kind most tire stores use. You might want to pick some up and bring them with you when you go to have them mounted.
Now that your Mustang has new shoes, its time to air them up. Buy a high quality tire pressure gauge made specifically for drag racing. The old pencil/stick type gauge is just not going to cut it anymore! My recommendation is to start on the high side of the pressure range (Do not exceed maximum pressure) and gradually lower the pressure 1-2 psi at a time. Keep checking your 60' times, look for the pressure that gives you the quickest time. After that you can vary pressures by 1/2 pound at a time to perfect your ride. Be wary of the fact that a drag slick with low air pressure is a hairy ride that takes a little getting used to, be careful! By now you should have lowered your ET by several tenth's of a second at least. Keep reading along with me and I'll bring you my best racing tips and techniques to make you the king of the strip!
Copyright 2010 by Tommy Gambon
Tommy Gambon writes articles on a wide range of automotive and auto racing topics. He has an excellent selection of tips about drag racing. http://www.bestracingtips.com/ posted on his blog and if you need more information on the 5.0 Mustang then this is a blog you should not miss.
The Solar Car
A solar car is a vehicle, powered by electricity instead of fuel, which runs on solar energy obtained from the solar panels on its surface. The solar panels are commonly found on the roof of the vehicle.
This type of vehicle is not entirely practical as of this moment, for obvious reasons. It needs to harness the power of the sun in order to run. Without sunlight, it runs on the reserve power which is stored in its batteries.
Photovoltaic cells convert the sun's energy into electricity, and this electricity runs the vehicle. That's why solar cars are limited by the energy input from the sun, their main source of energy. This type of vehicle is typically manufactured for participation in solar car races.
Just like a typical race car, a solar race car has room only for the driver, although there are some designs that include room for a navigator. It does have several features similar to a normal car, such as an accelerator, a brake, rear view mirrors on the camera, and ventilation. It would also have a radio which would be used by the driver, so that he can communicate with his support crew.
The Electrical System
Probably the most important component of a solar car is its electrical system. The electrical system controls all the power that comes in and out of the car. It doesn't have a gas tank, but its battery essentially functions as one. The battery stores energy produced by the PV cells. There's a wide range of batteries to choose from. The most common are lead-acid batteries, nickel-cadmium batteries (NiCd), nickel-metal hydride batteries (NiMH), lithium polymer batteries, and lithium-ion batteries. Most solar cars have gauges which monitor the entire electrical system. Among the things that one keeps an eye on, are the battery voltage, and the current.
The Design
The mechanical design of a solar car prioritizes on keeping friction and weight to a minimum, while maintaining sufficient strength so that it doesn't disintegrate. These vehicles are usually made out of titanium or similar composites, which makes for a good strength-to-weight ratio.
Commercially Available Hybrids
Hybrid cars using solar power are commercially available, in limited quantities. The Toyota Prius is said to be able to generate up to 240 watts of electric power from its solar cells. That results in a 15 km drive, on a sunny day.
One practical application for the solar car would be to use its technology for golf carts, which are lightweight, are mainly used during the day, and are usually parked under the sun.
Our future will be bright when cars roam the streets using renewable energy such as solar power.
About the Author
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On the Seattle to Portland Race (STP), how do I carry a bike pump with me in case I need it?
The official STP website also says to bring along any medications, but how? I can't carry anything with me on my bike. Is there any way that they officially do it, besides maybe having a family member of mine carry supplies in their car and maybe stop at the stops that I want them to by phoning them by cell phone? And a cell phone - can I carry that in my jersey - I think so. They said to contact other biker friends you need to carry cell phones or radios.
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What is you opinion on borrowing a presta bike pump with built in pressure gauge from a neighbor? I'm already borrowing his bike - I feel bad borrowing any more. I have a schrader pump but need a presta adapter, the pump itself has no pressure gauge. Can I get a good seperate and reliable presta pressure reader apparatus?
get one of these here: http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1031016_-1_29501_20000_29504 you screw a threaded co2 cartridge into the head seen in the link and presta! you have a pump that fits right into the back pocket of your jersey....carry a couple more cartridges with you and you DO NOT need a guage to determine pressure, do that with a finger and feel for it!
Split/Second demo wild ride, may not carry whole game
In Split/Second, you're a participant in a sick reality show, where racers compete in a volatile environment to try to be the first to the finish line. You build up your Powerplay gauge by drafting, by drifting, and by getting air. Once you have a few levels built up, you can cause explosions and environmental attacks around the track to destroy your opponents. That's the main gimmick, and the ...
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