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Flow Test Pipe
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We all have our rituals to celebrate the arrival of spring. It may be looking for first song bird, or the first flower. It may also be the pursuit of the sweetest elixir of spring, maple syrup.
When the frost of night gives way to the thaw of a sunny day, snows melt and water begins to flow. Just as icy water begins its spring time rush, so flows the sap of the Maple tree.
The ebb and flow of frost and thaw is necessary for the regular flow of sap. The frost - thaw cycle assists to move the sap up into the trunk of the tree. Once flowing it possible to gather the sap and produce maple syrup.
The tapping of maple trees has been an annual ritual for more than a century. The annual harvest from the Sugar Maple of Eastern Canada is a booming industry. Syrup produced from the Manitoba Maple however is just as sweet. Some might say sweeter.
The method of gathering sap has remained unchanged for generations. A small hole is bored in the trunk of the tree trunk approximately chest high. A tap, or small pipe is placed in the hole and tapped in to ensure it is snug. Some prefer the traditional metal taps, though plastic are also available.
An appropriate collection device is placed to catch the sap as it leaks from the tap. There are official maple tapping buckets available. However, if you have a large appetite for morning coffee, you may already have a suitable supply of metal tins in your recycling bin.
The amount of sap required to make syrup will vary with the sugar content of the trees. On average, expect a ratio of 25:1. For every 25 gallons of sap, you can expect approximately a gallon of product.
Rendering the sap into syrup is a process that is best done out doors. The process creates a lot of steam as water is boiled off.
Nothing says spring like a sunny afternoon, the smell of wood burning in the stove mixing with the fragrant steam rising from the boiling sap. Your most comfortable lawn chair and a copy of the newspaper all combine for an idyllic setting for making maple syrup.
If a wood stove is not available any suitable heating device capable of boiling water for a sustained period will do. Syrup makers have been known to use fire barrels, bar-b-ques, propane and Coleman stoves.
As the sap boils down it will darken and thicken into syrup. As it is boiled it is regularly skimmed to take off the unwanted white froth that appears. The consistency of the final product is a personal affair. One reliable test is to take a spoonful, let it cool and take a taste. Once to the desired consistency, the syrup is filtered. Paper coffee filters are suitable. Once filtered and bottled, it is stored in the refrigerator or freezer until used.
The effort is worth the tasty spring time treat. Not only does it help makes explain the invention of the pancake, but there could be environmental benefits. The tree takes carbon dioxide from the air in order to make the maple sugars. So, you could say, you are reducing greenhouse gases by encouraging the sequestering of carbon.
George Kynman is a cartoonist, writer and antique automobile restorer and driver. His cartoon work and articles have appeared in newpapers and magazines across Canada. George's radio documentaries have appeared on the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation radio network, Canada's National broadcaster. His 1932 Chrysler Sedan, and 1929 Graham Paige Cabriolet are a common sight on Canadian roads during the summer touring season. For additional information see: http://www.mts.net/~grkynman
How to test drainage pipes after laying
Drainage pipes start from the first manhole or inspection chamber to the septic tank or sewer system. After laying the pipes, before use the drains should be tested. Each section in between the manholes should be tested. Its appropriate that this is done at least twelve hours after jointing the last pipe. There are various methods of checking the system. This ensures that the system is air tight to avoid foul smells and leakages along the lines.
The testing of drainage pipes after laying commences with the following method. First the lower end of the pipe and all junctions are securely stopped. The whole length is then filled with water. After filling with water, a stopper is inserted at the top leaving a pipe attached with drain plug. This pipe is bent at ninety degrees and terminated at an elevated tank. The vertical distance of elevation should be at least one meter. This will give gravity flow.
In testing the drainage pipes, water is poured into the header tank. This is kept full for atleast three hours. It allows absorption to take place. After this time, the tank is topped up and testing commences. After a period of thirty minutes have elapsed check the water level in the tank. The water level in the header tank should not have fallen. If has dropped by there millimeters then the test is satisfactory. Give one hour and check the levels.
After testing the drain pipes and they fail the test, check the point of leakage. Its important to note that tests are run on pipes laid in trenches but are not covered. The point of leakage is then noted and fixed. This is done using a strong concrete surround with fine aggregates. A minimum cover of one hundred and fifty millimeters is done. Tests are then done again and confirmed. After passing the test, back filling is then done for the trenches.
About the Author
Andrew Karundu Is A Building Economist, Providing Home Based Solutions To Fixing, Repairing, Remodeling And Redesigning Homes. He Uses Simple Tried And Tested Methods To Improve Family Lifestyles.Visit His Site Here For Adequate Information On Most HOME IMPROVEMENT SOLUTIONS.
Low Water Pressure in the home, very odd....?
I have replaced all plumbing in the house with 1/2 pex including the shutoff valve. The incoming line from the meter is 3/4 inch copper. City says its reading 70psi at the meter (can the meter be bad? restricting flow?). So that leaves it the line between the house and the meter which is a quarter mile long. I have another house that probable has the pipe in the same trench and its pressure is working fine. No leaks underground... is there a way to test the line? and can a 3/4 copper line be full of deposits?
The most obvious thing would be a pressure regulator downstream of the meter - either at the meter itself, or at the house. But I assume you've already checked this?
If there's no pressure regulator, or you've verified the pressure downstream of it, I'd suggest fitting a hose faucet before the main shutoff valve, so you can test the pressure before it goes into the house system. If you're seeing the drop before the house shutoff valve, I'd then fit a valve out at the meter to verify you're really get 70psi before the run up to the house. If that checks out, I'd suspect a leak - but there's certainly *something* going on between the meter and the house.
==EDIT==
This is based on the assumption that you actually have a *pressure drop* at the house, and not just low flow. If you did a homerun install, the 1/2" shouldn't be an issue -- maybe 3/4" to a tub/shower, but 1/2" will suffice (and if you've got low-flow faucets and shower heads, 1/2" is more than enough).
ALSO- you mentioned that you started the PEX *before* the main house shutoff valve (or at least that's what I think you meant - "with 1/2 pex including the shutoff valve"). This is all inside, right? PEX can NOT be installed anywhere with direct UV exposure. The mfg's specify a maximum tolerance of 60 days exposure to sunlight during distrubution and installation. Beyond that, it goes brittle and will quickly fail.
Road reopens to traffic after sinkhole patched up
PETALING JAYA – Traffic flow in Jalan Universiti is back to normal after a large sinkhole caused by a burst pipe was filled up by contractors on Monday.
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