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Firewall Wire Bushing
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There are car alarms that a car owner can install personally or enlist the services of a mechanic. Most of the car alarms that are installed without the assistance of a mechanic are usually simple devices, which generally provide inadequate security. If you prefer to avoid the personal installation of the alarm, you can search for an automobile alarm and let a security company do the job.
Installation entails mounting of the siren onto a metal surface that is solid beneath the hood. The siren horn is then pointed towards the ground to avoid moisture collecting inside it. A hole is then drilled through the grommet, which is made of rubber in the car's firewall and the siren's wire is fed through this opening into the car's passenger section. The alarm's power wire is directly connected to the car battery and the wire fed into the car's passenger compartment through the rubber grommet located on the firewall.
A fuse is then put on the power wire beside the battery, and a confirmation of the fuse size hereby warrants checking of the installation manual. Following the manual description helps in mounting the shock antenna. A hole is then drilled on the dash depending on where the status indicator should be placed. What follows is feeding the LED's wire to pass through the hole, placing the mounting tape, which is double sided onto the LED's back, and placing it on the dash over the hole.
Location of the wires, which operate the powered door locks of the car, should be the next step. The door-lock transmission is then connected to the bolt and unlocks wires while the alarm system wire is connected to the transmission according to the manner that the technician has described. Following the advice given by the technician, it should first be determined if the alarm has current sensing then a location of the wire, which works the light, should follow. At this point, one should connect the sensing line coming from the alarm system onto the light wire. In case the alarm lacks voltage or current sensing, a location of the door triggers is advisable and when it is found, it should be connected to the system.
Usually located on the navigation column, there is a starter wire, which is usually a few inches under the starter control. A connection of the starter disable transmission should then follow, after cutting the line. The starter immobilizing wire is then connected to the relay from the alarm. The next step is to choose a position somewhere under the dash to place the valet button. A connection of all wires to the correct outputs and inputs of the alarm module should then proceed. Using a drill, screws and screw bits, locate a strong surface below the dash where the module should be mounted. Tie wraps are adequate in securing the harness wires, which should be stuffed back under the dashboard. The alarm is now ready to be armed and its performance tested.
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Installing Aftermarket Gauge
How to Install Aftermarket Gauges
The gauges I used are AutoGage's mechanical 3-gauge cluster set. They are 2 1/16" in diameter. I suggest that only the 2 1/16" gauges are used because there is a lack of space in the center cluster. The cosmetics of the gauges don't matter (white face, black face, chrome trim, black trim). The installation process will take approximately a whole day (at most, two days). One day can be used to make the Plexiglas panel and the other day can be used to install the gauges and fittings.
Tools needed:
- Dremel
- Dremel reinforced cutting wheel
- Dremel sander
- Sandpaper
- Wrench set
- Ratchet set
Materials:
- AutoGage or AutoMeter mechanical gauges
- Acrylic or Plexiglas sheet (about ¼ mm thin)
- Metric adapter set (ex. Sunpro by Actron Metric Adapter Kit #CP7573)
I suggest reading the instructions that came with the gauges first. This is just a write-up by some kid who lost his instructions the very first day, and had to guess everything out.
Step 1: Cutting the gauge panel.
This is a relatively simple step. All you have to do is print out the pattern below, trace it onto the Plexiglas or acrylic sheet, and cut it with the Dremel.
Use the gauge panel that came with the gauges to trace the circles. Make sure all the gauges can fit snug into each hole. They need to be snug enough not to fall out and loose enough to be pushed in easily. Use the Dremel sander and sandpaper to smooth out any rough edges. If the panel doesn't fit properly, do what you can to make it fit. Cut slits, sand away, etc.
Step 2: Fitting the gauge panel.
This is also a relatively simple step. Remove the center console trim by first removing the shifter trim and unscrewing two screws at the base of the center console trim. There are five tabs that hold the center console trim in place (3 on top, 2 on each side). The tabs on the gauge panel will fit into 2 crevasses under the bottom two screws of the radio assembly. They should fit snuggly. Otherwise, make them fit snuggly.
Step 3: Installing the gauge lines.
You do not have to drill another hole in the firewall. THERE SHOULD BE NO DRILLING INVOLVED! Under the dash above the steering column there is a hole already. A brass fitting conceals it. Stick your finger behind the brass fitting, and you will feel a hole. The hole leads to the engine bay where it resides under the ignition module. Snake the nylon oil and copper temperature lines to this hole. Make sure that you are able to step on the accelerator pedal without the lines interfering.
Step 4: Installing the gauges.
This step is explained in the instructions. I'm only going to go over some key points.
- Put the gauges into the gauge panel first. It may be a bit tricky to get the wiring and hosing done, but it's possible
- Do not make sharp bends with the nylon or copper tubing.
- The factory oil sensor is 27mm. If you have a 27mm socket, use it. Otherwise, be careful not to break the sensor off.
- Be sure to tighten all bushings on the oil line before starting the car.
- The water temperature sensor fitting isn't included in the kit. You'll have to have one custom-made. I placed mine on the water outlet housing where Toyota installed two 17mm plugs. I just removed one of the 17mm plugs, and place my temperature probe there. You can also design a T-fitting for the upper radiator hose.
- When wiring the light for the water temperature sensor, reverse the polarities. That means, hook the power wire on the gauge to a ground wire on the car and the ground wire on the gauge to a power wire on the car. This is because the copper tubing on the water temperature line acts like a ground. If you don't do this, expect blowing a 15A fuse.
- The voltmeter is hooked up to my cigarette lighter.
- Lighting wiring in my car as follows:
- One +/- hooked up to the cigarette lighter light.
- 2 +/- hooked up to the ashtray light.
Step 5: Double check.
Check to see that all lines are secure and fitted. Make sure there are no exposed electrical wires. Once you are sure, it's time to fit the gauge panel into the dash. The two tabs will rest between the bottom two radio screws and above the center console trim tabs. It will be tricky to secure the gauge panel there, so if problems arise, use either some school glue or some tape (for temporary purposes). You won't need to use tape or glue, but if you do, experiment at your own risk. The gauge panel should hold in place once the center console trim is fastened. If not, then check to see if the Plexiglas or acrylic is too thick. Other than that, you're done. Enjoy knowing how your engine behaves. Don't get too distracted.
Henry's Disclaimer: As always, I am not responsible for your actions. If for any reason your vehicle fails to operate normally after the installation of the gauges, I cannot be held responsible for any damages caused by the person who performed the installation. All instructions are written to the best of the author's knowledge
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