Feed Inlet Manifold

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Feed Inlet Manifold
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KENMORE UPPER WATER FEED PARTS Funnel, Holder/Water inlet, Tube/Manifold, Used
KENMORE UPPER WATER FEED PARTS Funnel, Holder/Water inlet, Tube/Manifold, Used
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Feed Inlet Manifold

Mercedes always had a penchant for using manifold vacuum as a control device for various ancillary systems. As elegant as that may be, it does result in an engine compartment with a multitude of vacuum lines and connections, on top of an already-complicated fuel injection and air-management system. If that myriad of components has never been renewed on a 20-year-old car, there will almost certainly be leaks, and they can be tricky to track down.

Vacuum Leak Symptoms

Major vacuum leaks will make the engine very rough or lumpy at idle as the optimal air-fuel (A/F) ratio is compromised by the intake of unmetered air. The car may still drive reasonably well, because the relative magnitude of the leak becomes much less significant as the throttle opens and the engine draws in the large amounts of air it needs for combustion under load. Idle speed may also be elevated, as the vacuum leak frustrates the efforts of the idle-control system to regulate the amount of air admitted to the intake ports.

The economy gauge in the instrument cluster should be pegged left at idle (unless in gear with the A/C on). But this gauge is not accurate enough for proper diagnosis. We really want to connect a hand-held vacuum gauge to the intake manifold. The best place to do this is at the back of the manifold on the passenger side, where the grey line to the interior accessories takes its feed. A healthy engine at idle, according to most textbooks, should indicate 17-22 in/Hg of vacuum; in the case of a V-8 Mercedes 126, we should be seeing around 20. A lower number can indicate many things, including improper ignition timing and generally poor engine condition. But if the engine is otherwise sound, vacuum leaks will be noticeable here.

Best Detection Method

One way to find vacuum leaks is with an automotive stethoscope. You may be able to actually hear the intake of false air. But the best way is to use your car's oxygen senor as a diagnostic aid. The oxygen sensor on the early V-8's is a single wire device, sending a voltage close to 1.0 when the A/F ratio is very rich and close to 0.0 when the mixture is very lean. By connecting the sensor's output wire through a voltmeter to battery ground, we can use it to test for vacuum leaks. To do this:

  • Get the sensor HOT by driving the car.
  • Test the sensor's lean response by creating a massive vacuum leak. Disconnect the grey line at the back of the manifold, where you hooked up your vacuum gauge.
  • Test the sensor's rich response by spraying carb cleaner into the intake. (The air cleaner needs to be off for this work.)
  • If the sensor is not responding correctly, replace it. It is vital for proper mixture control and fuel economy.
  • If the sensor is working, test for vacuum leaks by spraying small amounts of carb cleaner around suspected leak areas, such as fuel injector seals and breather hoses. If you see a brief spike in the voltage, you've found a problem area.
  • Don't go crazy with the carb cleaner: it is hostile to old rubber.

Unfortunately, not all of the possible culprits can be reached with this procedure. The rubber "donuts" between the upper- and lower-halves of the intake manifold are almost impossible to test. But usually, some combination of this procedure plus temporarily isolating vacuum-powered accessories will expose the leak.

This discussion is not complete without some understanding of how the ideal air/fuel mixture should be set. For more on that topic, please refer to Mercedes 126 Repair: Mixture Control here on EzineArticles. And click the following link for much more on Mercedes 126 repair.

For some thought-provoking articles on problems facing all drivers, including the growing trend of governments raising revenue from speeding tickets and traffic cameras, click on: beat speeding tickets. Check out the video page for a good laugh!

PEX Tubing for Residential Plumbing Systems & Demand Pumping Systems

I was asked earlier today if a hot water demand system would work with one of these new PEX plumbing systems that use remote manifolds. Well the short answer is yes. You can basically use a hot water demand system with any hot water distribution system.

 

The only criteria are that the cold water faucets are connected somewhere in the house to the inlet of the water heater, and the hot water pipes connect to the water heater outlet. It doesn’t matter if it’s a tank type water heater, a tankless water heater, or a solar water heater, a good demand system will work with any of them.

What is Pex Tubing?

Pex is a modified polyethylene material that has good properties for use in water distribution systems. A PEX plumbing system uses PEX tubing including 3/8 inch, ½ inch and ¾ inch diameters.

Using PEX tubing allows you to use long continuous tubing runs between the source of hot water and the fixture without the need for elbows and other fittings. This keeps pressure drops to a minimum and reduces labor.

Typically PEX systems will have a main trunk line or lines connecting to manifolds. The manifolds normally have a shut off valve at each outlet so the individual piping runs can be turned off individually. 3/8 tubing is often used for the run from the manifold to the individual fixtures.

Advantages of PEX tubing

With such small diameter tubing the water velocity is high and so the hot water reaches the fixture more quickly than with a conventional piping system.

The low volume of water contained in the tubing results in a small conservation of water compared to conventional piping systems.

Other potential advantages include the ability to expand enough to absorb water hammer reducing the noise from suddenly turning off the water, and the ability to resist scale build up.

PEX tubing should not be exposed to sunlight and can’t be used where it will be subjected even to reflected sunlight.

Hot Water Pumps and PEX Tubing

Typical demand hot water pumps and systems would be beneficial for manifold type PEX systems in cases where the trunk line feeding the manifold was very long. In those plumbing layouts where the trunk lines are long, a demand pump can be connected between an outlet port on the hot manifold and an outlet on the cold manifold.

For “home run” type piping layouts, a demand hot water system would not be practical. You would need a pump for each run, and with the small tubing you would not be saving much water or time either.

Looped Plumbing with PEX Tubing

Looped plumbing, where the piping is looped from fixture to fixture when equipped with a demand hot water pump is the greenest solution. That way you can place a demand hot water pump at the end of the line, and get fast efficient hot water delivery at every sink. It will save a lot of water and it will be very energy efficient.

Tankless Water Heaters and PEX Plumbing Systems

There is no reason PEX tubing can’t be used with tankless water heaters. The hot water delivered by a tankless water heater is no different than the hot water delivered by any other kind of water heater.

In some cases PEX systems can benefit tankless water heaters since tankless heaters take a little longer to deliver hot water to the fixtures.

About the Author

Hot Water Demand systems and pumps Green Hot Water Save Water & Energy

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whats the cost for installing a turbo on 92 eclipse?

i just bought a t4 turbo, turbo manifold, downpipe,blow off valve, intercooler an piping,and oil inlet feed. i would like to know does any body have a rough estimate of how much it would cost to have those parts installed on my 92 eclipse thanks

$750. $75 per hour for 10 hours.

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