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Crankshaft Small Block
Checkout Ebay Auctions For The Cheapest Prices
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 NEW CRANKSHAFT- SMALL BLOCK CHEVY -SCAT 4340  US $500.00
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 307-327 Small Block Chevrolet Crankshaft US $90.00
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 400 Small Block Chevrolet Crankshaft US $100.00
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 Eagle Sbc Small Block Chevy Crank Crankshaft 350 2Pc US $185.25
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 HEMI SMALL BLOCK CAST CRANKSHAFT 360 MAIN 5.9L ENGINES US $440.00
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 HEMI SMALL BLOCK CAST CRANKSHAFT 318 340 MAIN US $460.00
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Sunex 10000 V8-V6 Small Block Chevy Crankshaft Turing Socket List Price: $16.12 Sale Price: $16.12  |
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Designed to be used with small block Chevy engines, this non-marring aluminum tool rotates the crankshaft when used with a 1/2in. breaker bar or drive ratchet. |
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Powerhouse 103060 Pro-Crankshaft Socket for Small Block Ford/Buick/Pontiac List Price: $35.99 Sale Price: $35.99 |
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Small Ford Crankshaft Pulley, 289, 302, 351W, 351C V-Belt Sale Price: $58.00 |
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Ford small block V-Belt crankshaft pulley for 302, 351W and 351C engines. This pulley is designed for 1969 1/2+ vehicles that have a 4 bolt crank and drivers side lower radiator hose. Underdrive ratios for this pulley kit will spin the water pump and alternator at about 88% of enginer RPM to save you 10 - 15 horsepower. Dampener face to water pump flange face 3 1/4". Pulley diameter is 5.4" with 4 bolt pattern. |
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Competition Cams 4793 Crankshaft Socket for Small Block Chevrolet List Price: $29.95 Sale Price: $29.95 |
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Crankshaft Sockets Chevrolet Small Block 90 deg. V6 And GM 4 Cylinder w/1.255 in. ID with 3/16 in. Keyway |
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Small Block Chevy Crank Pulley,350, V-Belt - Long Water Pump Sale Price: $47.00 |
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Billet Aluminum Crankshaft Pulley for Long Water Pump (LWP) engines. Will fit Chevy 350, 283, 302, 327, 305, and 400 engines. Designed for use with stock power steering bracket and alternator bracket. Note: Long water pump Chevy engines are 7.287" from face of water pump pulley to block. Pulley Diameter is 6.6" with 3 bolt pattern. |
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How to Build & Modify Chevrolet Small-Block V-8 Pistons, Rods & Crankshafts (Powerpro Series) List Price: $19.95 |
Here are some more information for Crankshaft Small Block:
The air-cooled Volkswagen Kombi is a motoring icon. It's a classic van that is chock full of character, and a lot of young guys (and girls) still aspire to own one as their daily driver. But are they getting a bit long in the tooth now to make a practical vehicle for daily use?
I drive my 1976 2 liter bay window every day, and my experience gives a good indication of what you may have to do to make your unrestored Kombi safe and comfortable to drive as your main car.
Volkswagen Kombis are well over 30 years old now and it shows. I've spent a lot of time and money over the last few years getting mine back to a reasonable condition, and if you buy a cheap Kombi you have to be prepared to do the same. Even a more expensive Kombi will most likely need some repairs and TLC.
The 1800cc and 2 liter models are the most practical because they have more get up and go than the models with smaller engines, though it does cost more to rebuild the engines.
First the upside.
Kombis are cool, they're iconic, they have character and they are definitely not boring.
They are fun to drive and when they are in good nick they are comfortable and handle well with good steering. The later model bay windows keep up with the traffic fine and can cruise on 60 mph all day, though they do slow down on bigger hills.
And they are practical. There's lots of room in a Kombi. Maybe it's not as good as a modern van because of the hump for the rear engine, but they still make a great camper or an 8 seater van with room for luggage or groceries. Ground clearance is good and the engine over the rear wheels gives good traction for a two wheel drive if you want to get off the beaten track a bit.
Now, here's what to be aware of if you plan on owning one of these as your daily driver.
Rust of course is the biggest killer of Kombis or any old car. You're much better off spending a bit more money and getting a reasonably rust free Kombi. Given that you do find a rust free Kombi though, there are still a lot of things to eat up your money before it's even practical to use your van on a daily basis.
The engine may be worn out. I rebuilt mine a couple of years ago with new barrels and pistons, all new bearings, reground crankshaft and camshaft, and rebuilt heads. The heads were converted for use with unleaded petrol at the same time. This all costs money.
The steering and suspension are safety related and have to be right.
On the suspension I've replaced the four main ball joints and the shockies. With the steering I've replaced all the tierrod ends and the main center pin. The steering damper is next on the replacement list, and that should see the steering right for my Kombi. It's always possible that yours may need a new steering box as well.
Your Kombi's brakes also need to be right. Brake linings are something that do need regular replacing, but I've also replaced the rear brake drums because they were worn beyond limits, and the front discs will need replacing next time the front brake pads are done.
I've replaced all the flexible brake hoses because they are well over thirty years old now and they do get brittle and I've replaced some of the metal brake lines because they were corroded. The rear brake cylinders were replaced a few years ago and the front brake calipers were rebuilt with new seals.
On the rear drive train there are four cv joints, and the ones on my bay window were very sad. They were replaced along with the rear wheel bearings.
One very important area to look at is the fuel lines for the engine. Kombis do burn, and it's caused by petrol spraying all over the engine. Check the fuel lines carefully and if they look old and cracked replace them with quality fuel line. Make sure that they are not rubbing on the tinware and that the pipes going into the carby and fuel pump are not loose. This is important!
As well as things that you know may need fixing, there is always the unexpected. A spray nozzle came loose from the carby in my bay window and went through the engine. It's only a small thin brass tube but it sounded as though there were marbles rattling around in the engine. Luckily there was no damage, but it did mean pulling out the engine and taking off the cylinder heads to check everything and to remove the remains of the spray nozzle. And just this week I've had to replace the alternator.
As well as mechanical wear and tear there are the cosmetics to think about. Your cheap Kombi may need a paint job, new carpets, new upholstery, and even the front seats may need attention.
On the comfort side new door seals and window seals may be needed to stop rattles and drafts. The heater may need some attention. On my Kombi the heater cables had seized. That didn't worry me until I moved from a hot part of the country to a much colder area where temperatures get below freezing in the winter.
On the plus side parts are readily available. For my Kombi, a 1976 2 liter model, I have been able to buy every part I have needed apart from the carby spray nozzles, and even then I was able to get by with parts of a different model VW.
My opinion is that despite all the repairs and restoration, Volkswagen Kombis can still be a practical daily driver. You do need to accept the fact that your purchase price is only part of the story, and that you will have to spend time and money bringing your classic Kombi back to a safe and comfortable condition.
Warren Newson is editor of the car picture site http://www.motoring-classics.com, and lawnmowercountry.com where you can find parts for your Murray lawn mower to keep your Murray mower in as new shape.
Get Effective Engine Cooling With a Pontiac Water Pump
A pump is a device designed to move liquids or slurries from lower pressure to a higher pressure. It works by using mechanical forces to push the material, either by physically lifting, or by the force of compression. Pumps generally fall in two major categories: the rotodynamic pumps and positive displacement pumps. The categories are based on the method for moving fluid. Rotodynamics pumps are based on bladed impellors which rotate within the fluid and serves to convert the increase in the energy of the fluid into pressure energy for an associated piping system. A positive displacement pump causes a liquid to move by trapping an amount and displacing it into a discharge pipe.
The Pontiac Water Pump is a simple centrifugal pump and an important component of the cooling system. It is a small-impeller pump responsible for circulating the coolant through the engine’s cooling system whenever the engine is running. It is mounted on the engine and is driven by the fan belt, alternator belt or sometimes the timing belt connected to the crankshaft of the engine. Centrifugal pumps are rotodynamic pumps which convert mechanical energy into hydraulic energy by centripetal force meaning acting perpendicular to the direction of the motion of the body) on the liquid. Most water pumps are centrifugal pumps consisting of inlets, outlets, housing, a shaft, a rotating impeller, a volute and sometimes a shroud. The Pontiac Water Pump uses centrifugal pump to send fluid to the outside while it spins which causes the fluid to be drawn from the center continuously. Located near the center is the inlet to the pump which allows the fluid returning from the radiator to hit the pump vanes. These pump vanes then throw the fluid to the outside of the pump where it can enter the engine. A pulley is mounted on the shaft on the outer side while on the inner side the impeller that acts like a centrifugal pump as well as the seal to keep the coolant from leaking out are located. The coolant is moved by the Pontiac Water Pump through the water jackets into the engine cylinder block then to the cylinder head and into the radiator and finally back to the pump. This is the process that removes the heat from the engine by removing the heat from the coolant before it goes back to the engine.
There are different designs of water pumps depending on their purpose. The rotating impeller which is responsible for transmitting the coolant is the commonly installed water pump. Rear wheel drive cars often have the fan installed on the end of the water pump shaft. To prevent leakage around the pump shaft, these water pumps usually have spring-loaded seal. There are also water pumps that have pre-packed ball bearings at each end so lubrication will not be necessary. Pumps also wear internally depending on the liquid being pumped, materials used for construction and the operating regimen. Common problems of a Pontiac Water Pump are coolant leaks, noisy or defective bearing and damaged or corroded impeller. Faulty Pontiac Water Pump can cause the engine to overheat causing graver damage to the engine itself.
About the Author
Anthony Fontanelle is a 35-year-old automotive buff who grew up in the Windy City. He does freelance work for an automotive magazine when he is not busy customizing cars in his shop.
I want to build a small-block 350 chevy?
I have a 1980 350 4-bolt main Block and a 3.48 in stroke GM Steel Crankshaft with 5.700 Rod's and Keath Black 60 - over piston's with a 125 Dome's.. I also have a set of WORLD Cast Iron staright plug Head's and a Isky Cam 276/ 282 @ .020- inch. 614/614 lift with Comp Magnum Rocker Arm's with roller tip's 1.52. 3/ 8 stud's and a Edelbrock Air - Gap Intake with a 750 Quadrajet Carb and I have a set of 1.58 Header's also can any one tell me how much power this would be and if it would be a start for weekend's at the strip in a 93 S10 pick-up with a Dana 60 rear
won't know how much power you'll get 'till you put it on the dyno
yes, sounds like a good start
Suzuki Kizashi: A ‘Car of the Year’ contender?
Suzuki has introduced the long-awaited Kizashi for 2010, labeling it as one of the most important cars in the company’s history.
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