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Cold Air Kit
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 BCP BLUE 96-98 Pontiac Grand AM 2.4L L4 Cold Air Intake Induction Kit + Filter  US $31.95
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 BCP BLUE 03-08 Mazda6 2.3L L4 Cold Air Intake Induction Kit + Filter US $41.99
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Here are some more information for Cold Air Kit:
Like your vehicle's engine and transmission, the A/C is comprised of several components. Each has a specific job to perform in order to cool the cabin of your car. If any single part fails, the entire assembly will either perform intermittently (e.g. alternating cold and warm air), or stop working altogether. The challenge is narrowing down the culprit.
Identifying the root causes of problems you're experiencing with your air conditioner requires having a basic understanding of its operation. In this article, we'll take a brief tour through your car's A/C. I'll explain the role played by the individual components and describe a few reasons the assembly may be working poorly.
How The Assembly Works
The driving force is the compressor. It pushes pressurized Freon (type R134A) in a gaseous state into another component called the condenser. The condenser turns the gas into liquid form before sending it to the receiver-drier, another component in the system. The receiver-drier is where the liquid Freon is stored. It is also where moisture is removed (moisture can freeze and cause an obstruction in the system).
The refrigerant remains pressurized within the receiver-drier until it is delivered to another component known as the thermostatic expansion valve. This is the point at which pressure is removed from the liquid Freon. It is then sent to the evaporator where it transforms back to a gaseous state.
Inside the evaporator, the chilled Freon absorbs heat from the cabin. At the same time, a blower fan pushed cold air into the cabin, cooling it. The refrigerant, still in gas form and now heated from the absorption process, is circulated back to the A/C's compressor. There, the cycle stars over.
Exploring Potential Problems
The A/C's operation is simpler than it seems. Problems that affect its performance, while inconvenient, can usually be uncovered with a little investigative work.
One of the most common culprits is a refrigerant leak; in fact, this is where most mechanics begin looking for a root cause for cooling issues. Leaks can occur in several places, including the seals, hoses, O-rings, and the individual parts (e.g. evaporator and condenser). As you would expect, the older your vehicle is, the more likely leaks will develop due to normal wear and tear.
Assuming there is no seepage of Freon throughout the system, diagnosing problems will depend on whether there is no cool air or just an insufficient amount. If there is no cool air coming from your vents, the issue could be a failing drive belt, compression clutch, or a fuse that has blown. It might also be traced to a malfunctioning thermostatic expansion valve or a blockage somewhere in the system.
If you can feel cool air coming out of the vents, but it's not cool enough, the problem might be linked to partial blockages, a failing compressor clutch, or even a low charge of Freon. It can also be due to a loose-fitting drive belt that's failing to adequately power the compressor.
In nearly all cases, problems with your vehicle's A/C are best left in the hands of an experienced mechanic. Not only is pressurized refrigerant dangerous, but a trained mechanic will have the diagnostic equipment needed to quickly find the culprit.
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Cool Cold Air Intakes
Your engine needs to get as much oxygen as it can in order to perform to its maximum potential. One of the best ways to maximize the amount of oxygen entering your motor is to make sure that the air coming in through the intake is as cold as possible. Cold air is denser than hot or warm air, and this extra density translates into a lot more oxygen per cubic foot.
Your sport compact car might be outfitted with a smaller, 4-cylinder engine. These engines rev fairly high, making the ability to draw in as much cold air as possible a priority. One really simply and inexpensive way to chill out the air hitting your engine is to install something called a cold air intake. This intake is designed to replace the factory air filter, and a section of the intake piping that is usually located towards the front of the car.
Boiling it down, there are three different concepts underlying a cold air intake's design. The first is the piping. Most intakes are created in order to form the straightest path possible from the air filter to the intake. Obviously, in some vehicles engine bays are cramped and some curvature is required, but in general, designers attempt to limit 90 degree curves in the pipe that may impede air flow.
The second concept is the idea of an open element air filter. Your car's stock air filter is protected inside of what is called an air box. This helps to keep it from getting too dirty, but it also muffles the noise of the air intake, making for a pretty uninspiring sound when you rev the engine. A cold air intake usually uses a cone filter which is not enclosed, allowing it to draw air from all sides. These filters, as in the case of companies like K&N, are washable and contain a thin layer of oil that helps trap dirt. The airflow of these cotton filters is also usually greater than a stock paper filter, so you end up trading a bit of engine protection for increased oxygen.
The third, and probably the most overlooked aspect of a cold air intake, is placement. You might have seen some kits installed in such a way that the filter is simply dropped directly into the engine bay. This can actually reduce the performance of your motor, because the air near an engine is quite hot, and does not contain nearly as much oxygen as air from the outside. If you want to place the filter inside your engine bay, you can but you need to take steps to ensure that it is insulated from engine heat.
You can do this by building a small enclosure that makes a seal with the hood when closed and keeps hot air from reaching the intake. You also want to make sure that there is a flow of fresh air from outside the car that is actually directed towards the filter itself. Some people install the filter outside the engine bay, in one of the front fenders or just underneath the front bumper. This can be risky, as large puddles of water can force moisture into the intake. Filters in this position also tend to get dirty much more quickly. It's really up to you how comfortable you are with your air filter's position.
Cold air intakes are an inexpensive way to add a little bit more performance and a much more aggressive sound to your compact car.
About the Author
Justina Mathews writes issues that currently affect the performance car enthusiast. She also writes about issues that affect the street tuner industry, as well as import scene lifestyle. She's a staff writer for fuel systems.
How do I instal a cold air intake on my 2000 cavalier?
I just purchased a cold air intake kit, with no instructions, and i am not sure where to start, any pics or links would be greatly appreciated! thanks!!
you didn't say what brand you bought. k&n, airraid, aem, etc, etc. do you have the box it came in? many manufacturers print their website on the box. if all you have is the name of the unit you can probably google the name, find a distributor or even the manufacturer website. call them, and viola, you might find it that way.
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