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Clutch Slave Cylinder
Checkout Ebay Auctions For The Cheapest Prices
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 Rhinopac Clutch Slave Cylinder N1761  US $80.55
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 Rhinopac Clutch Slave Cylinder S0251 US $80.55
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 Rhinopac Clutch Slave Cylinder S1993 US $80.55
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 DORMAN CS360083 Clutch Slave Cylinder Assy US $131.62
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 Rhinopac Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder Assembly PM0486-1 US $84.12
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 Rhinopac Clutch Slave Cylinder S0418 US $84.12
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Performance Tool Hydraulic Clutch Line Disconnect Tool - Ford Models, Model# W83150 Sale Price: $3.14  |
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An important tool for removing hydraulic clutch lines from clutch slave cylinders on some manual transmissions on Ford vehicles: 1989 to current Mercury Cougars and Thunderbirds; 1988 to current small trucks including Explorer, Ranger and Bronco II. |
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Wagner SC126890 Clutch Slave Cylinder Assembly List Price: $66.63 Sale Price: $81.64 |
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Wagner Sc126890 S C Assy |
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Wagner SC103753 Clutch Slave Cylinder Assembly Sale Price: $13.36 |
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WAGNER |
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15110 Cylinder/Piston Set Nitro Star T-15 Sale Price: $41.72 |
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CYLINDER / PISTON SET T-15 |
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Beck Arnley 071-0558 Clutch Slave Cylinder Kit-Minor Sale Price: $19.70 |
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Since 1914, Beck/Arnley has focused on the customer, offering high quality parts that look and perform the same as the original part. This ideal has never changed. Today, Beck/Arnley is committed to being the premium supplier of high quality import parts within the automotive market. BeckArnley is an original equipment brand that partners with other manufacturers to supply the parts that cars were originally built with. This product is in a BeckArnley package, note that the part may have been manufactured by an independent BeckArnley supplier and the number on the part may differ from the number on the package. |
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Centric Parts 138.45800 Clutch Slave Cylinder Sale Price: $14.57 |
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Clutch Slave Cylinder |
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KD Tools (KD 41500) 12 Piece Fuel and Transmission Line Disconnect Tool Kit List Price: $69.41 Sale Price: $35.42 |
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ul> Disconnect tools that separate fittings on fuel, filter, transmission, air conditioning systems, and fuel tank return lines on most vehicles, trucks, and other heavy equipment Low profile anodized disconnects - provides greater versatility Removable hinge style lid - allows for convenient storage in tool box drawers Laminated bilingual instruction card integrated into case design - handy reference of application information Individual part numbers molded into case for easy referenceApplications:GM and Ford Disconnect Tool for vehicle which easily separates spring coupling fittings on fuel lines and air conditioning systems. Ford Fuel Line Coupling Tool provides damage-free fuel line separation on vehicles with quick-disconnect fittings: 1990 - current Ford Rangers and Explorers w/4.0 L, 6 cylinder engines. Ford Hydraulic Clutch Line Disconnect Tool removes hydraulic clutch lines from clutch slave cylinders on some manual transmissions: 1989-current Mercury Cougars and Thunderbirds; 1988-current small trucks including Explorer, Ranger and Bronco II. Chrysler Quick Disconnect Coupler Tool. Ford EFI Fuel Line with Hair Pin Connector Tool also works on transmission oil cooler lines on: 1987-current Olds Toronado, Buick Riviera and Reatta, Cadillac Eldorado, Seville and Concours; and 1989-current GM 1/2, 3/4, and 1 - ton pickups. GM Hydraulic Clutch Line Disconnect Tool removes clutch lines from slave cylinders during clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder or clutch assembly service. Bent end applications: NVG3500 manual transmissions on 1966-current full-size 2WD and 4WD trucks, S-10s, and S-15 Blazers/Jimmys. Straight end applications: 1993-current Pontiac Grand Prix, Olds Cutlass Supreme, Buick Regal; 1993-94 Chevy Lumina; and 1995-current Chevrolet Monte Carlo. GM Transmission Oil Cooler Line Disconnect Tool. Ford Oil Cooler Line Disconnect Tool disconnects transmission to radiator oil cooler line quick connect f |
Here are some more information for Clutch Slave Cylinder:
DRUM BRAKE EVOLUTION
To understand the how we must first discuss the why. Brake technology has made quite a few advances in the last 100 years, but even back in the 1940s, Ford adapted changes to the way brakes were designed, much to the resistance of Henry Ford.
Henry Ford was fond of his mechanical brakes, and his marketing touted "Solid steel from pedal to wheel". These mechanical rod operated brakes persisted until 1939, well behind Ford's competitors. The problem with the brakes is that they required frequent adjustment, and were just plain dangerous at speed. They featured 12 inch diameter drums that could easily put a car into a spin if one brake rod was tighter than another. High speed stops proved to be hair raising experiences, and many felt that the new hydraulic or "juice" brakes introduced in 1939 to the Ford product line was a step up in safety and performance.
JUICE BRAKES
The first and by far the most important design improvement was the change from rods to hydraulic fluid to actuate the brake shoes. Although the design was originally invented in 1924, Ford resisted utilizing the design until 1939, with the backing plates, shoes, and drum assembly that in many ways the is same design used on cars today. There were a few key design issues that took some years of production to be recognized and improved upon. Along with other idiosyncrasies, Ford's new adopted hydraulic design was a work in progress. The brakes required more pedal effort to stop the car than our modern drum brakes, a break in period, and even in some cases machine grinding to fit correctly.
Back in the 1940's and 1950's our hot rodding fore-fathers had limited resources and little access to sophisticated machinery, so often a "bolt on solution" was the most popular. From the way Ford designed their cars, these brake alternatives were just that.
The second major design improvement was the way the shoes were mounted on the backing plate. The 1940 brake shoes pivoted on a pin at the bottom and where actuated by a slave cylinder at the top. This design is known as "single leading shoe" or "leading and trailing shoe brakes". When brake force is applied, both shoes pivot at the bottom attachment bolt and press against the drum with equal pressure. Shoe contact tended to stay in one spot and the wear was uneven. Pedal effort was high because none of the rotational force was used to help make the shoes press harder to the drum surface.
Living with the 1939 Ford brakes
To improve shoe to drum contact, the 1940 design utilized a pair of cams on the shoe pivots that moved each shoe in or out to eliminate high spots. Either lock nuts on the backing plate side of the brakes, or spring tension bolts allowed for adjustments to be made.
These spring tensioned bolt adjusters tend to resist staying in place, and the situation is even more aggravated if you chemically clean the backing plates for painting. Rust tended to create a resistance to turning of these spring bolts. The lower cam bolts on the design on the right tended to loosen as well, so when using the early Ford brakes periodic inspection is a must for optimal performance. Overall the design works well but requires maintenance.
A word about brake shoe grinding:
Brake grinding was common back in the day, as everyone was well aware that a little asbestos dust never hurt anybody! Perhaps no one thought of the disadvantage of grinding off of valuable braking material was a problem either. If the brakes where not ground down, they would eventually wear to the shape of the drums, but prior to that happening, the 1939 brakes had a nasty habit of grabbing and high spotting. This caused wheel lock at inopportune times, along with unpredictable braking. These features and disadvantages make the selection of the F100 truck brakes an easy choice.
Ford F100 pickup truck brake design
The F100 brakes are what is called a "Duo-Servo" design. This design works outperforms the 1939 leading edge design because it uses the rotation of the drums to cause the brake shoes to "twist" and press against the drum lining much harder. So much better in fact that they require less pedal effort and are less sensitive to high spotting. This also has the benefit of a more even brake shoe wear and longer shoe life. Let's look closer at why the "Duo-Servo" design works so much better than the 1939 design.
At first glance the F100 design looks much like the 1940 design, but on closer examination we see that the shoes are not mounted on a stationary pivot point, but rather "floating" on a pin and spring assembly. The floating feature allows the brake shoes to twist and wedge themselves against the drum increasing braking friction. Through this servo action the shoes transmit motion to each other, rather than just one lead shoe doing all the work.
Throughout the 1950's there was a revolution of sorts on brake development. Some of the larger more prestigious cars came equipped with this updated design. The major distinction was that the shoes now "floated" on the backing plates and took advantage of the rotation of the drum to grip harder. Ford recognized the advantage this would have on the heavier truck they produced during the early 1950's. The point not lost on performance enthusiasts. Even though the early brake drums were 12 inches in diameter, the 11 inch F100 and F1 design was far superior in performance.
Curt Baker is a Charlotte NC based consultant specializing in foreclosure mediation in the commercial market. Curt works with Asset Solutions Group Inc and is focused on the Hospitality Industry in mediating debt, and restructuring financing for distressed properties. The company website is:
http://www.assetsolutionsgroup.net
Curt is also an accomplished author and builder of traditional hot rod automobiles. His passion has been on Ford cars of the early 1930's and 1940's, with emphasis on period correct restorations. His writings include The Traditional Ford Brake Book which isa detailed how to book on early Ford brake conversions.
How to R&R Engine in a 1994 Honda Civic L4-1493cc 1.5L SOHC
Mark all wiring and hoses for installation reference. Also, be sure they do not contact other wiring or hoses or interfere with other parts .
On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for system disarming and arming procedures.
Disconnect battery ground cable, then the positive cable.
Remove radiator cap, then raise and support vehicle.
Remove front tires and wheels, then the engine splash shield.
Drain coolant, transaxle fluid and engine oil. Reinstall drain plugs using new washers.Do not overtighten drain plugs .
Lower vehicle, then open hood as far as possible and secure.
Remove underhood ABS fuse/relay box.
Remove air intake hose, resonator and air cleaner assembly.
Relieve fuel pressure as described under Technician Safety Information .
Disconnect fuel feed hose and charcoal canister hose from intake manifold.
Remove throttle cable by loosening locknut, then slip cable end out of throttle linkage.
Disconnect engine electrical harness connectors on left side of engine compartment.
Disconnect fuel return hose and brake booster vacuum hose.
Disconnect engine electrical harness connectors and clamps on right side of engine compartment.
Disconnect battery and starter cables from underhood fuse/relay box, then remove ABS power cable from battery terminal.
Disconnect engine ground cable on cylinder head, then remove power steering belt and pump. Do not disconnect power steering hoses.
Remove A/C belt and compressor. Do not disconnect A/C hoses.
Remove transaxle ground cable and ATF cooler lines on automatic transaxles.
Disconnect radiator and heater hoses from engine.
Raise and support vehicle, then remove exhaust pipe and stay.
On models with automatic transaxle , disconnect shift control cable at transaxle.
On models with manual transaxle , remove clutch slave cylinder, then disconnect pipe/hose assembly. Do not disconnect clutch hose assembly .
Disconnect shift rod and extension rod.
Remove damper fork, then disconnect suspension lower arm ball joint.
Remove driveshafts, then lower vehicle. Tie plastic bags over driveshaft ends for protection.
Attach suitable engine lifting equipment, then raise engine slightly to remove load on engine mounts.
Remove front engine mounts and brackets, then the rear engine mounting brackets.
Perform the following:
Remove cruise control actuator.
Remove support nuts and bolt, then the mount bolt.
Remove side engine mount.
Remove transaxle mount nuts, then loosen mount bolt and pivot transaxle side mount out of the way.
Ensure engine is free of hoses and electrical connectors, then remove engine from vehicle.
Engine Mount Tightening Sequence
Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
When installing driveshafts, use new spring clips and ensure driveshafts click into groove in differential.
After refilling cooling system, bleed air from cooling system at bleed bolt with heater valve open.
Adjust all control cables as required.
On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for system disarming and arming procedures.
About the Author
Master Auto Tech, L1, and Under car EZ Discount Hand Tools
How do I change the clutch slave cylinder in a 2000 Ford Focus?
I need to change the slave cylinder on a 2000 Ford Focus and normally these things are accessible from the engine bay or beneath the car but in this case it appears to be inside the bell housing. Is there a way to change this without pulling the transmission out? Any help here would save me a lot of time.
Thanks,
-- Henry
Concentric mounted slave cylinders are the rage nowadays. I've had to pull the 6-speed out of my Z-28 twice now for slave cylinder issues.
1992 Ford F150 Custom review from North America
What things have gone wrong with the car? Needed new clutch and clutch slave cylinder. Inside door latches quit working. Replaced exhaust system. Replaced starter.
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