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Cleaner Housing Lid
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I have been asked this question by so many customers. Why won't my hot tub heat up? I have talked people through this process over the phone and have sent them a list of information on how to test the spa heater themselves. I do not normally recommend that an end user try to troubleshoot their own spa. Working with electricity can be dangerous and working with electricity and water can be deadly. It is always recommended to contact a qualified service technician for any troubleshooting. That said, many people are more than capable of troubleshooting their own spa heater and this guide will assist them.
Spa & Hot Tub Heater Troubleshooting Guide
An easy to follow Spa & Hot Tub heater Troubleshooting Guide. Troubleshooting a spa heater can be a simple procedure if you have the right tools.
Note: This troubleshooting guide is meant for trained spa service professionals. It is not recommended for the spa owner to troubleshoot their own spa.
Tools you will need to have are:
A Multimeter, to check voltage, and a Clamp on Amp Meter, to check for amp draw at the element. You can not accurately troubleshoot a Spa heater element without these tools.
Multi-Meter: Used to test for voltage at the heater element terminals.
Amp Meter: Used to check for amp draw by the heater element.
You will also need various hand tools. Screw drivers, Pliers, open end wrenches, etc.
Note: Spa must be full of water and in normal operating condition to perform these tests
To test the heater element, you must: Check voltage at heater element
1. Turn Power off to spa. (This means to shut off source voltage to the spa at the breaker or disconnect).
2. Open equipment area and locate the heater assembly.
3. Open the spa heater assembly to expose the heater terminals.
4. Make sure all other wires and connections are away from the heater terminals.
5. Open spa filter housing and remove filter. Replace filter lid and secure for operation.
6. Double check area around heater terminals to make sure you have access to the terminals with the multi-meter probes, without the hazard of touching other contacts.
7. Remember, when you re-apply power to spa, you will be working with 240 volts of electricity. Water and electricity do not mix.
8. Make sure no water is near the terminals where you will be working. Also, make sure you are not kneeling or standing in water while testing for voltage at the heater terminals.
9. Re-apply power to spa and turn thermostat up to cause heater to come on. Listen to spa to see if operation sounds normal.
10. Turn multi-meter on and plug probes into the meter as directed by the meter instructions. You will be testing voltage.
11. Carefully place one probe on one of the element terminals.
12. Carefully place the second probe on the other heater terminal.
13. Read your multi-meter for voltage at the element.
14. Remove both probes, and write down the voltage you read from your test.
15. Turn power off to spa. If you received "0" volts at the heater terminal, your problem is most likely not the heater element. If you received the correct voltage at the heater terminals, you must now check for amp draw at your heater.
Check amp draw at heater element
1. Turn power off to spa. (This means to shut off source voltage to the spa at the breaker or disconnect).
2. Find wires that connect to the spa heater terminals.
3. Clamp one wire that goes to your heater element, with your amp-meter.
4. Make sure all wires are secure and safe for operation.
5. Re-apply power to your spa and turn thermostat up to cause heater to come on.
6. Check amp-meter to see if amps are being drawn by your heater element.
7. Turn Power off to spa.
8. Write down the amp reading from your amp-meter. If you received an amp reading from your heater. Your heater element is working. You need to look for problems elsewhere.
*I f you received the proper voltage at the heater terminals, but received no amp reading when the spa was operating, the heater element is bad.
What to do if heater element tests good during these tests, but does not heat spa, during normal operation. Remember step 5 in the voltage test. You removed the filter. Check condition of filter, run spa for 24 hrs without filter in place to see if spa heats normally. If spa heats normally with filter out, replace filter with new.
Now be aware every hot tub / spa is different. If you have a digital system, make note of any displayed error codes. The new digital systems on the spas today will do much of the troubleshooting for you if you know what it is telling you, but let's leave that for another article though.
For more information or help with this topic, visit http://www.spapartssupply.com/help-desk/knowledgebase.php or http://www.rivercityspas.com. You may also contact me directly. Keeping the community in hot water.
Maintaining Mazda Engine
Mazda engines are of different sizes and various types. Nonetheless, they all have similar auto parts; they just vary in design and output. Another common denominator of these engines is that they need regular tune-ups and engine maintenance in order to yield fuel economy, longer engine life, and greener environment.
Radiator and heater hoses, not like some other hoses, can be replaced by you alone. It is advised to inspect these hoses for leaks, softness (which can indicate deterioration in the interior), hardness (which keeps clamps from sealing) and swells.
When scheduled for radiator hose replacement, start by draining the cooling system or capturing the antifreeze. Refill the radiator and overflow "throw up" tank with the recommended mixture of antifreeze and water. Your owner’s manual will guide you in coming up with such mixture. And still according to your manual, "burp" the cooling system.
The Mazda valve cover also needs regular inspection. It is the hard metal cover that is located on top of the cylinder head that is tasked to prevent leaks and firmly cover the valve train. This engine part is very important because it allows protection for the engine and keeps it away from oil spills.
Most of the latest vehicle models use a serpentine-belt system. Automatically adjusting the single belt is a spring-loaded tensioner. A broken belt will disable almost all vehicle accessories. It is therefore appropriate to regularly inspect the belt for missing ribs and rumbled plies. And to help you, a belt-routing diagram is usually seen somewhere under the hood.
Following the recommendations in your owner’s manual, replace the paper-style air filter elements which are more often under dusty conditions. Inspect the old air filter and see if there are dirt and debris. By merely removing the old element, replace it with a new one. But make sure not to drop the lid's wing nuts down the throttle bore or intake (if so equipped) in the process.
Also, see to it that the new filter is properly located in the housing. Take note that inside some vehicles is a foam element inside the air-cleaner housing where the valve cover hose attaches to the air cleaner. This element should also be replaced regularly.
Filtering emitted gases before they circulate back to the air cleaner are the positive-crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve. Consult your Mazda owner’s manual for the accurate period of replacement of the PCV.
The exhaust gas recirculation or the EGR valve utilizes exhaust to minimize cylinder temperature, which in turn minimizes emitted nitrogen. One of the symptoms of a faulty EGR (as is a failed emissions test) is engine pinging. To assure the proper functioning of the valve, it should be checked with an external vacuum pump.
The engine cap and rotor should also not to be taken for granted. Although electronic ignitions do not require that much maintenance, the distributor cap and rotor still depreciates over time. Oxidation and carbon deposits make the strength and timing of the sparks weak. Therefore, one still needs to maintain the engine cap and rotor.
The external cracks on the plug wires are indicators that the engine part needs to be replaced. With the engine running, faulty wires will also show visible sparks in the dark. In this case, they also need replacement.
When replacing the distributor cap, inspect the plug wires as well. Only remove a single wire at a time, regardless of whether the wires will be replaced or not.
Modern spark plugs now come "pre-gapped." However, it is still wise to verify the gap before installing new plugs. And to lessen the chance of cracking the plugs' insulators, always use a spark-plug socket.
The oxygen sensor over looks emissions and informs the vehicle how to adjust the air/fuel ratio for efficiency at its best. Over a long time, the nose of the sensor becomes clogged with carbon. As a result, faulty readings are produced. The replacement of the oxygen sensor is just the same as changing a spark plug. But for an easier job, buy an exact-match sensor.
Another significant engine part, also needs regular replacement is the fuel replacement. To lessen the mess in replacing the filter, release the fuel pressure from the system following the recommendation in the Mazda owner’s manual. Then, disconnect the battery, keep smokers far enough, pop the old filter loose, catch seeping gas in a coffee can or other suitable container. Finally, the installation of the new filter will come next.
The timing belts should also be changed at the recommended intervals. A broken belt can inhibit expensive valve train damage.
Maintaining you Mazda engine may sometimes be costly but it is all worth it when performance, comfort and convenience are at stake.
About the Author
Kraig Johanssen is a native of Connecticut and holds a degree in Software Engineering. He now works at a software development firm in Alabama. His love for writing and great interest on cars makes him a proficient contributing author to various automotive magazines.
How do I prime my pool pump?
I think there is air in there since the suction goes way down when I try to vacuum. But I have bacjwawshed and rinsed and it works for a second then diminishes to practically nothing. And how do I get that clear lid off. it is too hard. do I need to clean that out? I just bought the house last Oct and have been keeping it clean this winter but now this!!! I don't have a clue!
Yes, you have to clean the pump basket out. How you get it off depends on the manufacturer of the pump. They differ. Some have a ring lock system ( Jacuzzi), some are simple twist off's (StaRite) and others have two knobs you loosen and swing off to the side ( Hayward).
Everything that you've vacc'd up goes through that basket. If it's large, it gets caught there. Finer particles make it on through into the filter. When you've dumped your basket, (pump off) use a pail of water to fill the pump basket up and quickly replace the lid. Turn on your pump and wait for it to catch it's prime.
When you hook up your vac hose, you are making sure that you've gotten all the air out of it firs, right? If you don't...you will lose the prime. To get that air out of it, there's an easy way to do it. Assemble your vac head, hose and pole. Straighten out the hose, taking all the curls out of it, remove your skimmer basket and place the free end in through the front of your skimmer and up on the deck a foot or so. Just enough for it to stay there and not slip back into the pool. The pole/vac head end, take over to a return jet. Place your vac head over the return. That jet will force water through the hose. You'll see the hose sink. When you see water out the free end on the deck, you're done. Hook it up, taking care to try to get that last little bit of air at hose end out.
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