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Camber Alignment Gauge
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US $175.94
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Digital AccuLevel Caster Camber Gauge Ext. Quick Set Adapter w/Silver case Sale Price: $269.60  |
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Here's a super accurate digital caster / camber gauge that reads to .1º (1/10º) camber and caster as high as needed, and at a price any serious team can easily justify. It comes with our QuickSetTM LW adapter and a silver carrying case. As an additional benefit the AccuLevelTM digital readout can be removed and used separately as a digital angle finder for suspension, spoiler angles, and many other things. QuickSetTM LW Adapter This is the fastest way to check your front end alignment. Just hold it against the rim for easy, accurate readings. No spindle adapters required here. Made from CNC machined billet aluminum. Works on most any race car, up to 22" aluminum, 'feet' adapt to wheel bead. 3 point design makes setting caster easier. Folds for easy storage. |
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Specialty Products Company 81139 Magnet Adjustable Camber Gauge List Price: $130.70 Sale Price: Too low to display |
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Specialty Products Co. 81139 Magnet Adj Camber Gauge |
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SG Tool Aid 61800 Strut Alignment Level List Price: $34.25 Sale Price: $17.25 |
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Super strong magnet - mounts on brake rotor, spindle or steering knuckle Easy to read, unbreakable bubble level Camber settings from -3 degrees to +3 degrees for additional adjustment Works on all vehicles equipped with MacPherson struts Can remain on the vehicle during repair, or can be removedUse this simple level to restore a vehicle's camber setting after strut repair or installation. Allows technician or customer to safely drive the vehicle before a more precise wheel alignment can be performed. More accurate than other methods. Also useful for repairs on CV joints, ball joints and tie rod ends. Easy to use: simply place on rotor before repair and zero the level. Tighten the wing nut. After the repair, push or pull on the strut until the level returns to the zero position. |
Here are some more information for Camber Alignment Gauge:
Every driver dreads having to one day replace the parts under the hood of his or her car. That's understandable. Replacing the fuel pump, catalytic converter, alternator, or head gasket (among other components) promises a hefty repair bill. However, the "part" that usually receives the least amount of attention is the one that has the most immediate effect on your safety: your tires. If your treads are severely worn, they can contribute to a traffic accident.
In this article, we'll provide four easy tips that you can use to not only ensure your tires are safe, but to also prolong their life. All it takes is checking them every now and again. You'll discover that spending a few minutes on a regular basis can help protect you and your passengers over the long run.
Tip 1 - Look For Signs Of Wearing
Due to the constant friction between your treads and the road, the rubber material wears down. Over tens of thousands of miles, the grooves slowly become more shallow. That prevents moisture from funneling through them properly, causing your tires to lose their grip on the road. In wet conditions, that can lead to hydroplaning.
Most wheels today have wear indicators that make it easy to identify when they need to be replaced. If you're unable to see indicator bars, you can buy a tread-depth gauge for a few dollars at any auto supply store. Simply stick the gauge into each of your tires' grooves every three or four weeks. Once they wear down to 2/32 of an inch, it's time to replace them. If you drive in inclement weather, you might consider replacing them when they reach 4/32 of an inch.
Tip 2 - Check For The Proper Pressure
Above all other factors, the most common reason for tire failure is a lack of pressure. A lot of people are unaware that a small amount of pressure seeps from between the membranes of their wheels' rubber. Over the course of a couple of weeks, the pressure loss in undetectable. Over several months, however, it can be substantial.
Besides lowering the overall fuel efficiency of your vehicle, underinflated wheels can affect your car's steering response. Moreover, it can impact your safety because a lack of sufficient pressure can eventually cause the treads to separate.
Check the pressure once each month. If it's low, fill it to the manufacturer's recommended psi.
Tip 3 - Rotate Them Twice A Year
Routine tire rotations are important in order to prevent excess tread wear from developing on your front wheels. The majority of vehicles today are front-wheel drive. That means most of the pressure during operation is placed on the front wheels, causing the treads to suffer wear more quickly than those in the rear.
Get into the habit of rotating your tires twice each year. That will help even out the tread wear across your entire set.
Tip 4 - Have The Alignment Checked
Alignment problems can cause excess tread wear over a surprisingly short period of time. The root cause of such problems involves the angles at which your wheels lean. If the camber, caster, or toe are misaligned, you'll feel your car pulling to one side while you're driving straight ahead. In front-wheel drive vehicles, your front tires will suffer the majority of the wear.
You should have any noticeable alignment issues resolved as quickly as possible. They may seem benign, but their effect on your treads will impact your safety and that of your passengers.
Most people neglect their tires until the treads wear down to the point where replacing them becomes an extreme priority. Follow the suggestions above to prolong their life and monitor their condition. Not only will you ensure your safety, but you'll improve your vehicle's response and save a few dollars in the process.
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What Is Wheel Alignment--Caster-Camber-Tow-In
First for those who do not understand caster, camber, and tow-in let me explain. Caster is how the wheel is in relation to a vertical king pin or ball joints. It can be true vertical or -o- degree, positive, or negative. Example: the front wheel of a bicycle has positive caster. Note the wheel extends forward from the turning axis. Therefore allowing the steering to return straight when you remove your hands from the handle bars. A vehicle with positive caster will do the same. This adjustment is for handling or how it drives and requires caster -- camber gauge for adjustment as well as certain hand wrenches.
Camber denotes the position of the wheel to the vehicle ,such as in at the top and out at the bottom (negative) , or out at top and in at the bottom (positive). The recommended setting can be negative 1 to positive 1, -0-degree being straight up and down, or true vertical. If it is extreme one way or the other it will cause wear on the inter or outer edge of the tire and possible scallops may appear. This adjustment is for tire wear and possibly some handling, also certain tools such as upper control arm wrench and a tomcat camber adjustment tool may come in handy.
After the caster and camber are set, we go to the tow-in which is also for tire wear and again possibly some handling. Tow-in is the adjustment relationship of the left front wheel to the right front wheel. If the tires of the front wheels are slightly pointed toward each other, that is tow-in. If they are away from each other that is tow-out. Before this adjustment takes place, the center of steering must be made. This is the relationship of the steering wheel to the left front wheel, With the steering wheel set straight ahead (centered) align the left wheel towed -in slightly or about 3/16 in.. This can be done by with the use of a string drawn from the around the left rear wheel and pulled forward using the rear wheel as a guide to get a straight line to the left front wheel therefore allowing the string will indicate the position of the left front wheel being tow-out or tow-in. The left wheel must be adjusted first and the right ft. wheel adjusted to the left wheel to get a toe-in of about ¼ 1n. There are tow-in adjusting tools such as tow-in adjustment bar, a tie rod spreader, and tie rod kit, that can aide in accomplishing this alignment.
There are times when one shim or adjusment to move the rear of the control arm outward will give a wheel the proper setting if one understands what that move will do for both settings (caster and camber) simultaneously. That knowledge or understanding plus the proper hand tools and some experience is all that is really needed. Well, maybe a good coach would come in handy. However, back to the move made by the adding a single shim to the rear of the upper control arm (by the way shims vary in thickness) would give less negative caster and more positive camber. Any questions ? Lem Boyd
lemuniquetoolsaccessories@gmail.com
About the Author
What are the specs of a 2003 F250?
I have a F250 that I need to do a slight alignment of the front end on...It is 4 wheel drive with the FX4 package. It has the 5.4 engine in it. I have worked on cars for years and can handle the job. (so please no responses of take to a dealer please) I have most of the tools toe plates, caster and camber gauges. What should the toe and camber be set to? Is it zero? Most my alignment experience is from oval circle track racing so we set it up to turn easy to the left.
Thanks in advance.
A Ford shop manual would specify those details. Also check your local library's Motors and Chiltons manuals.
http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp?r=http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20071018093123AA42une&r=w&pa=FZptHWf.BGRX3OFMiDZSUsW35XM.FjvIS3WfE5COsyoBc.PUGA--&paid=answered
http://eautorepair.net/default.asp
http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/
http://www.chiltondiy.com/pub/mkt/description.aspx
Bee Line Introduces a New Mobile Alignment System Package
Bee Line Company has added a mobile alignment system package to its heavy-duty alignment product line. * gauge toe, rear tracking and camber, the number one, two and three culprits for steer tire wear. The ability to easily self calibrate, ensuring the equipment is always accurate.
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