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Air Cold Air
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 96-98 Civic EX 1.6L L4/98-01 Chevy Cavalier 2.2L Red Cold Air Intake System  US $37.00
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 NRG Carbon8 Honda S2000 carbon fiber intake cold ram air filter duct JDM AP1 AP2 US $410.00
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Here are some more information for Air Cold Air:
Setting the Record Straight for Cold Air Intakes Vs. Short Air Intakes
Let me start by saying that cold air intakes and short ram intakes both have their pros and cons. That being said, they are also very similar. The Short Air Intake System, AKA as a Ram Air Intake or Cold Air Induction, is a system that will utilize some type of external scoop that faces forward on the vehicle. Normally, it works with a pair of snorkels or a single hood scoop through which fresh air enters. Now the Ram Intake does exactly what it sounds like. As you start driving, fresh air is “rammed” through your hood, forced down the intake manifold, and filtered through the air cleaner. Once you hit thirty five mph, this intake system will act similarly to a turbo charger; taking in more and more air to increase your horsepower. Oh yea, and they are much cheaper.
Let’s look at Cold Air Intakes. The Cold Air System replaces your stock air cleaner box and its plumbing with a simple tube that relocates the air intake to a position where it is picking up cold air from outside the engine compartment. This system consists of a large tube that allows greater airflow capability than the stock filter system. I’ve noticed that people have expressed concerns about water penetrating their engines with this system. First, it is HIGHLY unlikely that this will ever be a problem. Rain and water droplets are no problem. The only case that could be a potential threat is if you drove into an extremely deep puddle, submerging the intake head. The car would have to be in the water so that the intake was submerged, and then it would start sucking up water, making your engine hydro-lock.
In both cases the intake is collecting air from outside your engine compartment. The purpose of the intake is to collect a colder air charge than inside the engine compartment, allowing the fuel management system to give the engine a denser air/fuel charge into the combustion chamber. To clarify: Cold Air = More Horsepower. The warm air from your engine compartment is good for fuel economy, but because is has less oxygen molecules than a cold air charge, the fuel will be leaned out. This increases your fuel efficiency, but decreases your horsepower. To conclude, you should look at your car and figure out what system will work with your car’s ground clearance and hood type.
About the Author
Now that you are an educated shopper, you can look through all the cool colors and designs to pick out your intake. Injen intakes are very popular, but I’m currently using an AFE intake. Can you hear that? Sounds like the record has been set straight. - Tim Saunier
Why is my home air conditioning blowing hot and cold air?
I attempted to change my thermostat at home. After an unsuccesful try, I put the old one back on. I'm pretty sure I put the wires back correctly, but now its randomly blowing hot air and cold air at different times. Appreciate your responses.
Go to the indoor air handler (the furnace part of the air conditioner system). Open the front panel and look for the thermostat wire. It will be attached to a board or terminal block, or it could be wire-nutted to other wires.
The wires are color coded. Most times, the colors control the following (this is subject to change, depending on who wired the unit and the manufacturer).
R Red = power, 27v AC
G Green = fan
Y Yellow = first or single stage cooling
W White = first stage heating
O Orange = reversing valve on heat pump
C blue or black = common power, 27v AC
There may be other colors and numbers of letters. If there are, and there are wires attached, write down what wire is attached to what terminal. If you don't have terminals, call a pro.
Return to your thermostat. verify that the wires attached at the unit are attached to the same terminals in the thermostat.
The way a thermostat works, is say you like your home to be 70 degrees (F). When the thermostat senses 72 degrees, it tells the fan to come on, and the condenser to come on. The fan and and the condenser take the warm air in your home, remove the heat, and return cool air to the home. The air leaving the air handler will be 20* cooler than the air going in. When the air around the thermostat reaches 69.5 degrees, it tells the compressor to stop. The fan may continue running for a minute or two to bring the evaporator up to room temperature. Five minutes later, the air around the thermostat has warmed up to 72 degrees. The thermostat calls the fan and compressor to come on, but the compressor has another controller that prevents it from operating unless it has rested for 10 minutes. The fan is running, and the air is warming up. The fan motor is producing heat, and the air is blowing, but the heat is not being removed. After the rest period has ended, the compressor starts up again, and the heat is removed from the house.
Does this sound like what is happening to your system?
Dreamliner Tested in Air Force Facility
A Boeing 787 Dreamliner "soaks" in minus 45 degree temperatures inside the McKinley Climatic Lab April 21, 2010, at Eglin Air Force Base, Fla. The new aircraft is being tested in extreme heat and cold for two weeks prior to its release at the end of year.
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