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Bathing Suit Basics
It's bathing suit season again and while the thought may send some women screaming and running for the hills there is hope in finding the perfect swimsuit to show off your assets.
While the right swimsuit is a vital staple in your wardrobe, it is important to remember that swimsuits are not sized like most clothing. In fact, you should try one to two sizes larger than your normal clothing size.
Even if you are hesitant to go up a size, don't get caught up in the number. The right fit is what counts. When you find a suit that you like, lift your arms, bend over, sit down, and walk around to make sure it is not going to gather or ride up.
With so many styles of swimsuits on the market, it is important to take note of what works for your body and what does not. For example, when shopping for a tankini, make sure the stomach portion of the suit lies flat against your stomach but is not too tight. If it is too tight, your stomach will bulge causing more harm than good.
And when choosing patterns, remember that vertical stripes are more flattering than horizontal stripes. In fact, striped patterns with different sized lines look the best.
Bottoms Up
When trying on a swimsuit bottom, make sure your skin is not bulging from the waist or leg area. If it does, again, try going up a size. If the problem is still there, consider a different style bottom. In general, a bottom with a leg opening an inch below the hip bone is the most flattering.
Remember, bottoms stretch when they get wet. Make sure the bottom fits snug enough where it won't look droopy when it's wet. Boy shorts do not disguise hips, large bums, or large thighs - in reality they only accentuate your problem areas.
Get a Supportive and Stylish Lift
If you are looking for a top with an underwire, it should fit like your best fitting bra. The underwire should lie flat against your skin without any breast sneaking out of the bottom.
For most ladies, side cleavage is an issue. Starting at your underarm, ¾ of the breast should be covered. And for large busts, a halter top or an underwire top provides the best support and coverage. Halter tops with a wider band provide the most support.
When it comes to swimsuits, cleavage isn't everything. Most women like to emphasize their bust, but over-padding is not the answer. Steer clear of large, push-up pads. The foam holds water like a sponge and tends to pull the top down resulting in a saggy look that is not attractive.
If you want to add a little extra padding to your top, choose a thin pad that looks natural. Most pads can be cut to fit any style top. To prevent the pad from slipping, insert the pads into the lining of the top or sew the pads into the top.
Finding a style for your shape
All of this swimsuit advice can be mind boggling when you are on the hunt for a swimsuit but just keep the following style tips in mind when shopping and trying on swimwear:
oShort Torsos: Vertical stripes or prints will make your body look longer.
oLong Torsos: High leglines and low necklines shorten body length. Stay away from vertical stripes.
oHide Your Tummy: Styles that focus the eye in other places are best. Try a printed top with a solid pant. Also, try a one piece that is slimming in the torso or that will move the eyes toward the bust line. Tankinis also work great at hiding your tummy.
oBoy-Shaped Body: Look for styles that create a waist. Avoid plain suits.
oSmall Chest: Bold prints and bold colors always flatter. Bandeau tops only put emphasis on small chests.
oLarge Chest: Support should be your number one concern. Underwire tops will provide the best support. Halter tops, especially ones with a wide band, also provide good support. Stay away from patterns that emphasize the bust. Try a solid top with a printed bottom.
oLarge Hips or Saddle Bags: Draw attention to your top half. Choose styles with vertical stripes, dark slimming colors, or with bust details. Try a solid pant with a printed top.
Swimwear Care Tips
Once you find the right swimsuit, you want to take extra special care of it. Follow these tips to keep your swimsuit ready all year long:
oAlways rinse your swimsuit with regular tap water after swimming. You should hand wash your suit with a mild liquid detergent. Some "hand washing" detergents can cause colors to bleed. Mild soaps, such as Ivory®, work best. Avoid all chlorine-based bleach products, spot removers, and dry cleaning. Never use bleach and never put your swimsuit in the washing machine!
oThe best way to dry your suit is to lay it flat in natural air. Never put a swimsuit in the dryer or wring it out!!! Avoid putting your swimsuit away until it is completely dry. If it is stored while still wet, it could become discolored. For the same reason, avoid leaving your wet swimsuit in a bag or wrapped in a damp towel.
oWhen applying oil based sun tan lotions, minimize direct contact with your swimsuit. The oils naturally cause the swimsuit elastics to breakdown.
oHot tubs and highly chlorinated water can cause your swimsuit to fade. Also, these water conditions can cause embellishments to fade or fall off of the suit. Limit your swimsuit's exposure to hot or highly chlorinated water or wear an older suit in these conditions.
Melissa Miers, has worked as a manager at Pampos Dance & Swim for over six years. An expert swimsuit stylist who knows how different bathing suits fit various figures and what looks best on each, Melissa stays up on the latest trends and styles in the swimsuit market by attending the industryÂ’s most popular swim wear fashion shows throughout the year to find the hottest styles and colors to make anyone look fabulous in and out of the water.
How to Fit a Radiator to the Central Heating System?
Choosing and buying a new radiator might not be such a difficult task in its essence as long as you kept in mind some important ideas like:
- The radiators should have at least a 2-year guarantee.
- They should be pressure-tested to 152.3 PSI (10.5 bar) in order to be able to handle a pressure of 116 PSI (8 bar) at a temperature of 95°C.
- The output of the radiator should comply with the BSEN442 European standard for radiators.
If you do not resort to a specialist's help, here are some tips that you should take into account when replacing an old radiator and that can be quite easily implemented. Connecting a radiator to an already existing central heating system is a pretty straightforward DIY job that can be conducted in a matter of hours.
The aim of this article is to provide a tutorial on how to fit in a new radiator yourself without the help of a professional plumber. I will provide some tips on how to choose the location of the radiator, on how to remove the old radiator (if applicable), how to fit the new radiator to the wall, some tips concerning how to cut a pipe, how to connect the new radiator and finally, how to deal with corrosion.
1. Location of the radiator
If you are not replacing an old radiator and you just want to add a new one to the system, you must probably be already aware that radiators are usually placed where the draft enters the house, somewhere near a window or near the entrance door. Now you should be aware that there are problems with both locations; for instance, if you place a radiator near a window, the length of the curtains could have a negative effect on the way heat is distributed inside your home.
Also, the location of the radiator near the entrance door might pose some problems in case you have disabled persons or children in your family. Derived from the curtain problem, you should make sure consequently that you leave enough room for the heat to circulate and for the valves to be installed. The distance between that base of the radiator and the ground should be of approximately 150 mm, at least.
*Note: depending on the type of radiator, you should leave a specific distance between the wall and the radiator as well:
- 40-46 mm for single panel
- 58-65 mm for double panel
- 35-44 mm for single convector radiators
- 60-71 mm for double panel plus
- 71-84mm for double convector.
Another factor that should influence your decision to place the radiator somewhere is the position of the pipe. You should be aware that there are two types of pipes - flow and return. Older system might just have one pipe playing the double role.
In a single pipe system, there is a flow pipe that takes the heated water from the boiler while the return pipe brings the water to the boiler to be heated again. In twin pipe system, you should first try and fix the radiator tails (screw fitting that should come with a lock shield or thermostatic radiator valves).
Before screwing it to the radiator, you should put some PTFE tape around the thread in order to improve the quality of joints seals. The tails could be quite easily tightened with a radiator spanner.
2. Removing the old radiator (if applicable)
If you are not replacing an old radiator, you can skip this section. If you are replacing a radiator however, there is some advice that you should take into account:
- Switch off the central heating. If you have conventional heating though, you should stop the cold water from coming to the tank or tie the ball valve so that refilling is not permitted. Another exception is a conventional vented system, in which case you will have to take the water out from the system before physically removing the radiator.
- Drain off the water from the radiator: (1) You should open the square with a suitable spanner (2) Make sure you have a hose pipe connected to the draincock Type A for a sealed system to deal with leaking water. In a conventional vented system, you could use a hosepipe and clamp it on with a jubilee clip and then try and reach the other point of the hose pipe. (3) Remove all the water in the radiator so that you make sure the water is not going to ruin your house as well.
- Undo the bleed valve from the radiator so that the water can drain off from the system.
- When the radiator is empty, you can start undoing one of the valves at the bottom of the radiator; you will probably still notice some water leaking, so you will still have to go and drain some water downstairs. It may be necessary that you should take the water out of the whole system.
- Remove the fittings and lift it upwards in order to remove it from the brackets.
3. Fitting the radiator to the Wall
Once you have decided on the location of the new radiator, you will probably want to fix it to the wall. In order to do that, you have to follow 5 easy steps:
- Measuring the distance between two fastening points on the back of the radiator.
- Drawing a vertical line on the wall employing a bubble level (spirit level).
- Drawing an additional line to correct the distance apart.
- Fastening the brackets to the wall.
- Putting the radiator on to the brackets.
4. Cutting the pipe (better done by plumber)
You need a pipe slice for copper pipes and plastic pipe slicers for plastic.
- Place a bowl under the pipe since some residual water is likely to come out.
- In order to place the "T" fitting, you need to cut more from one of the pipes.
- Make sure you have push-fit fittings and compression fittings at hand.
- In case you're working with copper pipes, have a pipe bender and a pipe bending spring at hand.
- After inserting the "T" fitting, run the pipe from the flow and return pipes to the new radiator (the flow pipe should have the valve on).
5. Connecting the new radiator
Once all the above things were observed, you can finally connect the new radiator:
- Connect the radiator making sure that the pipe inserts are used.
- In case you are using compression valves, you should have copper olives since other types of valves may be too hard for plastic pipes.
- Close the drain off valve.
- Remove the hosepipe.
- Close the bleeding valve from the radiator that you might have opened previously.
- Fill the system again using the cold supply filling loop and if it is a vented system via the water supply system i.e. loft water supply tank.
- Check new fittings for potential leakages (in case you come across any leakages, tighten the screws or make sure that the pipes are pushed all the way into the fitting).
- After doing everything, you should bleed the radiator. You can view our previous article, called How to bleed your radiator in order to get the right information on how to do it.
How to deal with Corrosion
Most people worry about corrosion when installing a new radiator. This is indeed something that you should consider which is inevitable in its essence. What you can do is to prolong the need to replace the radiator.
Which are the factors that affect corrosion?
- The type of metal employed in the system
- The amount of air drawn into the system
- The type of water that gets into the system
- The quality of the work for the radiator installation.
What can be done to prevent early corrosion of your radiator?
Some things you need to do when installing the new radiator:
- Proper water flushing and filling after the radiator had been installed.
- Application of some corrosion inhibitors, in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
Conclusion
In a nut-shell, don't forget:
- In terms of location, make sure that you leave enough room for the heat to circulate and for the valves to be installed.
- When you remove the radiator, drain the system out.
- Fix the radiator to the wall.
- Cut the pipe (if necessary).
- Connect the new radiator.
- Use some corrosion inhibitors.
Good Luck!
About the Author
Copyright 2009, http://www.tradeplumbing.co.uk all rights reserved. This article was written by Sam Brown, Marketing Manager at TradePlumbing. Tradeplumbing.co.uk is a trading name of Clayton Horsnell LTD, a privately held company with headquarters in Colchester, UK, providing a wide variety of plumbing products starting with bathroom suites, baths, showers, towel rails, furniture, sinks, heating system, and radiators and finishing with taps and water treatment products.
This article may be reproduced in a website, e-zine, CD-ROM, book, magazine, etc. so long as the above information is included in full, including the link back to this website.
A Ford brake bleeding question,any ideas?
Replaced everything from the master cylinder back to the wheel cylinders.All fittings teflon taped and tight,no leaks showing anywhere.
I keep getting air in the lines and can't find where it's getting in,there is no visible leakage.
Anybody had this problem ???
the Teflon tape is the trouble..
on flair type fitting it won't let the flairs seat properly
yes i bought a old t-bird with this problem..
removed every fitting, removed tape ,retightened
everything was good after that..
p.s. good to see you again,
they killed me 1 too many times in politics .
so i don't go there anymore....god bless America
The horror of older vehicle repairs
The engine bay of a 1969 Plymouth Roadrunner. PHOTO AND STORY BY CHARLES GAL/SPECIAL TO THE EDMONTON JOURNAL.
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