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Tomatoes cop their fair share of pests and diseases and this can seriously effect how much fruit they produce. Climatic conditions play a large part in whether the pest or disease is going to become a problem. The best way to manage the build up of pests and diseases is to practice Integrated Pest Management (IPM) and crop rotation. By using these two methods, you don't need to rely on heavy chemicals. IPM is using physical/mechanical, biological and chemical controls to manage pests and diseases. Crop rotation falls into the physical/mechanical group, as each season you plant the tomatoes in a different bed.
Viruses, bacteria and fungal diseases can enter the plant through wounds such as broken stems or through the roots or be transferred by sap sucking insects such as aphids, white fly, mites and mealy bugs. Pathogens can also be spread by wind and water.
Tomatoes are a summer/warm climate crop and are susceptible to fungal diseases that require humid conditions to thrive. The main fungal diseases are wilt and mildews. These diseases multiply by spores. Ideal conditions are: warm temperatures, moist air and a host plant such as a tomato. Spores can also survive in the soil, dead plant material and weeds growing near by.
Diseases
The signs of wilt are the lower leaves become brown and papery, dry looking and hang down, while the top growth still looks healthy. The lower leaves look like they need water. But the disease interferes with the roots ability to take up moisture. Watering actually makes the problem worse.
There are two types of mildews - downy and powdery. Downy mildew is characterized by white spots or patches on the upper and lower parts of the leaf. Powdery mildew's characteristics are the fungal spores start out as small white dots that gradually spread over the entire leaf. It also affects buds, stems and fruit.
Pests and Diseases Control Measures:
- Buy healthy seeds and seedlings
- Practice crop rotation
- Pick up any leaves on the ground and destroy them, don't compost them
- In winter spray the soil with Lime Sulphur - it kills fungal spores
- Don't water from overhead as it can spread the fungal spores
- Water at ground level
- Plant grafted tomatoes as they are more resistant to pests and diseases
- Make sure there is plenty of sunlight
- Make sure the air is able to circulate around the plants
- Don't keep feeding the plants with nitrogen, it creates soft and sappy leaf growth which is susceptible to attack
- Make your own fungicide. See below for recipe.
- Apply fungicides early in the morning
Fungicide Recipe:Mix one level teaspoon of bicarb soda into one litre of water. Add one litre of skim milk and a pinch of Condy's Crystals which you can get from a produce agent (someone that supplies to horse owners). Shake thoroughly and spray over leaves. Only lasts in the bottle about 1-2 days.
Blossom-End Rot is a physiological disease caused by lack of calcium or too much nitrogen. In regards to the calcium deficiency, it does not mean that the soil is in lacking calcium. There may be calcium in the soil, but the pH may be wrong, preventing the plant accessing it. Tomatoes like a soil with a pH between 5-7. If your soils pH is acidic and below 5, then the plant may not be able to take up the calcium. To overcome this problem, an application of garden lime is advised. This will raise the soils pH and enable the plant to access the calcium that is present in the soil. When you are preparing the soil to plant your tomatoes, a good handful of lime per plant will help.
Pests
Tomatoes also attract their fare share of pests such as white fly, aphids, mealy bugs and mites. These are sap sucking insects and some have the ability to multiply asexually. That means the female is able to produce lots of clones without the male. It is important to control these pests because they can transfer viruses and bacterial diseases.
I recommend that you use a low toxic sprays such as Long Life Pyrethrin or a home made garlic or chilli spray. These types of sprays are called contact sprays and wash off easily after rain or being watered. They are not absorbed into plants vascular system like systemic sprays such as Confidor. If you read my article Vegetable Pests and Diseases you will find recipes to make your own pesticides. A sign that your tomato is being attacked by sap sucking insects is the leaves curl or bubble or go a silvery colour.When applying contact sprays it is important to actually spray it onto the pests, so I suggest you look under the leaves because that is where many pests cohabitate.
Some cultural tips to growing healthy tomatoes
- Put the plant in the full sun
- Check the soils pH and alter accordingly if it needs it
- Don't over plant the garden bed
- Prepare the soil properly before planting with compost, blood and bone, potash and animal manure
- Put shade cloth over if the day is going to be extremely hot
- Water in the morning
The good thing about growing your own tomatoes is that you control what pesticides you apply to them. If you decide to use heavy chemicals then it is vital you obey the with holding period directions. The with holding period is the number of days you must wait until you can harvest the produce.
Growing your tomatoes is very rewarding but you do have to manage the pests and diseases, otherwise you will find that your efforts are being wasted. Observing and understanding what tomatoes require is the secret to growing healthy tomatoes. Integrated Pest Management and crop rotation are very valuable tools that if you put into practice, will reward you will delicious tomatoes without using nasty heavy chemicals.
See my next article Why Fruit doesn't develop or falls off Vegetables and Fruit Trees
Sandra Pullman B.App.Sc. (Hort) Hons. Burnley-Uni Melb.
Horticulturalist to ABC TV's Gardening Australia Viewers Emails.
http://gardenpatch.com.au Visit my website for "down to earth", good quality, reliable and practical advice explained to you in layman's terms. I also run gardening course for beginners. Check out my website for upcoming class dates and locations. All your gardening solutions are one click away!
Parrot Owners - Materials Commonly Used in Bird Toys
WOOD
Birds need to chew, wood is an excellent material to satisfy this natural urge. Birds play most often with wood toys. Wooden toys are meant to be destroyed. Some bird owners may be frustrated by the destructive nature of their parrots. However, chewing is a natural instinct and vital to birds mental and physical well-being. If you provide only acrylic toys they will often find other, more expensive ways to satisfy their chewing needs (i.e., molding, furniture). It is important to know what woods are safe for your bird. Both soft and hardwoods are commonly used in toys.
Safe Woods (not a complete list):
Pine, Balsa, Birch, Basswood, Poplar, Maple, Walnut, Ash, Apple, Elm, Cactus (Cholla) and Manzanita
Unsafe Woods (not a complete list):
Cedar, Red Cherry, Plywood. Oak
If you like to make your own toys NEVER use pressure treated wood, it is treated with arsenic and will poison your bird. If using natural branches make sure they have not been exposed to insecticides. Also, take care to collect branches in areas removed from highways where plant life may have absorbed toxic emissions from cars. Scrub all branches with a non-toxic disinfectant (dilute chlorine bleach), rinse and dry thoroughly.
If you need to clean wood toys, don't soak them. It is best to wipe them clean with a damp cloth or sand the soiled area until clean. If your bird likes to dunk his toys beware that moisture can promote bacterial growth and the toys should either be discarded or thoroughly cleaned and dried in a low temperature oven before returning them to the bird.
Birds are able to distinguish colors therefore color makes wood toys more attractive and interesting to birds. Manufacturers usually color wood with food coloring or vegetable dyes. We don't believe in flavoring wood as the bird should not be encouraged to ingest the wood and, unless properly controlled, the fruit sugars often used provide a perfect medium for bacterial growth. Do not buy toys that have been stained or varnished to add color. If you are interested in a toy with painted parts (ie, ABC blocks) make sure that only non-toxic, child safe paints were used.
ROPE
Several kinds of rope are used in bird toys. Only 100% natural fiber ropes such as cotton, hemp (jute), or sisal should be used in bird toys. Nylon blend ropes should never be used as they can result in serious injury and cuts due to the strength of the strands if the birds get caught in it. Ropes can be safe as long as they are maintained properly and the bird's beak and nails are kept trim. There have been safety problems noted when excessive fraying occurs. Birds have choked and lost circulation to legs by getting tangled in ill maintained ropes. Rope toys have proven very beneficial in solving feather picking problems and therefore we don't like to discount rope as a viable material. Bird owners have a responsibility to check their bird's rope toys daily and to cut back or discard rope toys when they become frayed and present a hazard to their bird.
CHAIN
Chain should have welded not open links. Un-welded chain provides sharp surfaces and narrow openings which have been known to cut toes. Make sure the links are a safe size for your bird, if toes get caught in the links the result can be broken toes or legs. Chain length is also a consideration as a long length of chain could conceivably end up wrapped around a bird's neck during a vigorous play session. As the wood components are chewed off, a chain hazard could develop. Owners must monitor the status of toys and ensure that as they physically change safety hazards do not develop.
FASTENERS
This is a crucial area of concern as good fasteners are expensive and therefore many manufacturers cut corners and use potentially unsafe items such as split key rings or dog leash type snap hooks. Birds have been cut and lost circulation to toes and tongues on toys utilizing split rings and spring type clamps. For conures or larger birds we recommend either Quick-links (also sometimes called C-clamps) or Pear links to attach toys to the bird's play area. They come in a variety of sizes and can be tightened with a wrench easily to prevent the bird from unhooking his toys. This type of fastener provides the least potential for injury. They are available in a variety of sizes and can be purchased from your local hardware store if needed to replace unsafe fasteners from existing toys.
Do not use split key rings, spring loaded clips or metal shower rings to fasten your toys. Small hardware pieces can be ingested accidentally. Birds have cut toes and tongues on split rings and spring type clamps.
ZINC
A lot has been mentioned recently about zinc toxicity in birds. Many bird toys are made with zinc coated (galvanized) metal components. Zinc is also commonly found in cage powder coatings. Some avian health specialists have stated that in order for zinc related health problems to result that the parrot must actually swallow the metal components and that "beaking" the parts is insufficient for toxicity to develop unless the galvanized coating is extremely brittle and flaky. If a bird spends a lot of time chewing on toy hardware (i.e., washers, quick links, wire) then it is possible they will ingest enough zinc to build up toxic levels in their systems over time. Owners who are worried about the possible health effects can often find stainless steel replacement components at their local hardware store. This option is also often much more cost effective to the consumer than buying toys constructed with stainless steel parts.
PLASTICS
Acrylics are used in many toys today and if sized properly to the bird are virtually indestructible. If purchasing acrylic toys we recommend the acrylic have a minimum thickness of 3/16?. Recently, there has been a shift back towards wood toys because although the acrylics are durable and attractive they are also not as fun for the bird who likes to chew. We recommend that a few of your birds toys be acrylic or a blend of acrylic and wood, they will be long lasting and the bright colors used are stimulating to your bird.
When considering toys with plastic components a bird owner must consider the nature of the plastic component (i.e., soft vs. brittle) relative to the size of the bird. Brittle plastics should not be given to larger birds because when they break very sharp, cutting edges are formed and if swallowed accidentally could result in ruptured organs. Hard plastic toys specifically designed for parakeets and cockatiels should not be given to larger birds with the beak power to destroy them.
LEATHER
Leather is a great material for birds to safely play with and chew on. Most birds especially like to spend hours untying knots made in leather strips.
Only vegetable tanned leather should be used on bird toys. Do not buy toys with dyed leather or leather tanned with chemicals as most are toxic to birds (i.e., chromium, formaldehyde). For this reason you should also not retire old shoes, belts and pocketbooks to your birds toy chest.
Replace leather if soiled or wet. Bacteria will flourish under these conditions. Many toy companies will sell replacement leather strips.
When hanging toys strung on leather (or rope or chain), avoid leaving a long strand between the toy and the cage. Some birds when rambunctious with their toys can get the leather wrapped around their necks and strangle. It is best to tie the toy close to the bars of the cage.
RINGS
When choosing toys with rings or large plastic chain links make sure that the rings are of a size that the bird can't get his head stuck in them and choke. Also beware of toys with multiple rings looped directly together as birds have met similar fates when they have been trapped between the rings.
BELLS
Birds love to make noise and bells provide a fun source for their merrymaking. If a bird is mechanically inclined and can remove the clapper the potential exists for swallowing/choking. Make sure the bell clapper can not be removed by the bird. If it is not securely fastened either remove it or weld it (we recommend silver solder). Make sure the clapper is not lead (toxic), if it is lead you will be able to dent the clapper with your fingernail. Do not buys toys that use jingle type bells, toes can become caught and cut in the wide to narrow openings, we recommend the cow or liberty bell design. Appropriately size the bell to the bird so it will be able to withstand the power of the beak.
FINAL CONSIDERATIONS
Just because the label says the product is safe doesn't mean that it's OK for your bird. Any toy has the potential to be unsafe if improperly sized to the bird. Ask your toy vendor or bird store owner for help or advice on choosing a toy appropriate for your bird.
As with kids, no toy is 100% safe for all birds. Use common sense and supervise your bird when you first give him a new toy. Observe how he interacts with the toy to determine how best to hang it and where and when to allow him to play with it (some toys are safer outside the cage).
Provide a wide variety of toys and rotate them in and out of the cage or play area. Variety will help alleviate boredom and keep your bird more alert and curious. Keep 2-3 toys minimum in the birds cage and don't overstuff the cage so the bird doesn't have room to move.
Don't assume that if your bird doesn't like a toy that it won't play with any toy. Try something different and take the time to observe what your bird finds interesting in terms of design, texture or size.
Introduce toys to baby birds but make them small...don't intimidate them. Hand toys are some of the safest toys available and they are especially great for young birds as they help to develop hand-eye coordination.
Play with your bird...most birds think it's great fun to chase balls across the floor or couch, play "catch" or "pick it up" with mom or dad.
This guide is by no means comprehensive but we have tried to address as many issues as possible. When in doubt, ask for help. We sincerely wish you a long, happy and healthy relationship with your bird.
About the Author
If you read this article and found it helpful, consider stopping by my website http://www.BirdToys.com
You can also find me and over 17,500+ other parrot owners at http://www.BirdBoard.com where you can ask questions and get immediate feedback.
About how much does it cost to refill a fire extimguisher?
I was wondering how much it costs to recharge a 5 to 10 pound ABC dry chemical fire extinguisher.
A typical recharge will run you about $18 for a 5lb. unit and about $25 for a 10Lb. unit, if it is the rechargeable type.
(I work for a company that recharges them all the time.)
ABC Fire extinguishers DO NOT NEED TO BE PRESSURE TESTED to recharge them. Where are all of you people getting this?
Stored Pressure fire extinguishers of the dry chemical type in decent condition are only subject to a hydrostatic pressure test at a 12 year interval. (NFPA 10).
New units of the good "rechargeable" type are about $35 for a 5 lb. unit and about $50 for a 10 lb. unit. So it makes sense to recharge them unless they are coming due for thier test. In that case, it's about a wash on a 5lb. unit, the 10 lb. is worth testing and a recharge, that would only be about $40.
I never heard of a fire department recharging their own stored pressure dry chemicals. In fact, most of the area fire departments bring us their dry chemical units for recharging. But apparently they do where nixmaster lives. Even if they had the capability, I wouldn't think they'd want the liability of doing the work for the public.
Reports Of Pampers “Dry-Max” Skin Problems Prompt CPSC
Following a move meant to bring a greener diaper to the marketplace, the maker of Pampers is now scrambling to field consumer complaints and faces a U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) probe. Reuters reported that Pampers’ Swaddlers and Cruisers diapers were updated with a material called “Dry Max” in what Procter & Gamble described [...]
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